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On board air setup..

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by CollegeKevin, Mar 26, 2012.

  1. Mar 26, 2012 at 6:41 PM
    #1
    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    UPDATED PICS ON PAGE 2

    Ive done a lot of reading on this and just want to run my setup by you guys before I go ahead and do it then discover I messed something up.

    I also would like to know what others used for the air lines that you can cut to size and the diameter (1/4", 3/8")

    Along with what kind of check valve you guys have used. I was looking at the Vair inline check valve but read a lot of bad reviews on them.

    Thanks for the help in advance.

    air.jpg
     
  2. Mar 26, 2012 at 6:41 PM
    #2
    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    BTW. I am using 2 MV50 compressors.
     
  3. Mar 28, 2012 at 5:55 PM
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    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok so I found 50' of black Goodyear 3/8" air hose. I was wondering if its ok to cut it in sections and use barbed fittings for an air system of no more then 120psi. Will this leak? Or is there a better way. I was also looking at air tubing at airbagit.com. http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/airhose-roll-3.htm I am just leery on using nylon tubing with compression fittings where the winters get cold.
     
  4. Mar 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM
    #4
    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    20120328_205635.jpg

    20120328_124935.jpg

    And here is a picture of the pressure switch I'm going to use. On at 80PSI and off at 100PSI
     
  5. Mar 28, 2012 at 6:35 PM
    #5
    jackrules

    jackrules Well-Known Member

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    i have one more question that you may want to pose, and I would like answered. Not trying to thread jack here, just thought it'd be helpful.

    Is there a good safety system one could use unless the pressure switch fails? I think I've heard of some sort of valve that would be directly connected to the air tank. I only ask, because I've read through a few forums where pressure switches failed and on a couple occasions the tanks blew and really screwed some stuff up...

    also. where are you mounting your tank?

    from what I know, your diagram looks good to me.


    Personally, I use a $40 air compressor / 3 gallon tank (all in one) that plugs into the 120 Volt outlet in the back. It pulls 350 AMP, so it's fine to use on the investor that's rated up to 400 AMP's. Very simple, I just tie it down in a matter that i can have it plugged in and filling it's self while it drives (it is automatically pressure switched at 80psi and 100psi.) It takes maybe 5-10 min to do 4 tires, from 20PSI to 35~40PSI.

    I want an OBA system, but for 40 bucks it just made sense for me to do it this way.
     
  6. Mar 28, 2012 at 6:50 PM
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    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There are safety bleeders that will open up if the air pressure in the tank exceeds the designed psi, but in my case, my compressors will only fill up to about 120PSI so the worst that will happen is the compressor will burn out. I will have a manual on/off switch besides the pressure switch because I don't need air all the time.

    As for the tank, I am debating on using 6 inch black pipe schedule 40 and welding on some end caps for a tank, or use an acetylene tank that I have laying around (which I will have to purge any gases out with water. If I go the black pipe route I will be mounting it under my tool box. If I go the tank route I'm going to mount it under the rear quarter panel on the outside of the frame under the bed.
     
  7. Mar 28, 2012 at 6:56 PM
    #7
    toku58

    toku58 Well-Known Member

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  8. Mar 28, 2012 at 7:18 PM
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    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    The best air line you can use is 3/8 air brake line. Use push-to-connect fittings.

    I would not build my own tank for a number of reasons. Viair makes a real nice little tank with all the ports you need and mounting feet.

    For the check valve you need a pressure relieving check valve. The one I use is the Load Genie. The problem is that almost all these valves are designed for high capacity systems. The air bleed port is too big and it slows the fill time of the tank. I took a center punch and made a hit next to the air port to close it down. You only need a very small pinhole.

    I would never attach a compressor to a tank without an over pressure valve. That is a flat out dumb thing to do! The little valves are cheap and they just pop open if the pressure switch fails. Get one and install it it the tank doesn't come with it.

    Is that pressure switch you have a 12V unit? It looks like a 110A AC unit. I used the little Viair switches and they have worked perfectly.

    My system feeds into a 10 foot coil of copper tubing mouted under the bed. It is in a coil so that the water that it condenses runs down to a drop tube with a drain valve. That system catches a ton of water! Other than the copper tube, all the other lines are DOT air brake line. I have a female QD connector to attach my airlines. I use a 7/8" rubber cane tip to keep it clean inside. It's a perfect fit.
     
  9. Mar 28, 2012 at 7:30 PM
    #9
    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    :eek::eek: You cannot do this! The inside of an acetylene tank is not empty! It contains an acetylene generator which is a cement like porous sponge. If you don't get all the explosive material out you will blow yourself to hell when you put air to it.
     
  10. Mar 28, 2012 at 7:46 PM
    #10
    tooblutacoma06

    tooblutacoma06 Member

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    Yea I would just stick to a Viair tank over trying to make your own. Too dangerous and too many sources for error and leaks.

    Here's a link to my install for reference if you need it: tooblutacoma06's OBA

    As for leaks, there's really no way to stop all leaks. Barbed fittings are a prime source for leaks as well. Push to connect fittings are nice but I'm not sure how they would hold up in the winter like you said. I would suggest locating outlets at the front and rear of the truck if you can. It's nice to have a quick connect under the hood for airing up the front tires and powering tools up front.

    Good luck on the install!
     
  11. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:47 PM
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    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you badger. This is input that I'm looking for. I will go with the air brake line and dismiss the idea of the acetaline tank. Haha. Good idea with the cane tip also. The pressure switch is from a water booster system from work. Not sure if the voltage rating will matter considering it will open the circuit when it reaches 100psi. Not trying to go the cheap route, just a different route and I'm open to improvements/safety advice :D
     
  12. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:53 PM
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    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    http://www.farwestforge.com/Forum/bsgview.php?photo=136&cat=T&by=
     
  13. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:11 PM
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    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    Hey, you're welcome. The switch should be fine, but just make sure it can handle the current. These 12V compressors draw allot of current, and you are running 2 of them. That was why I questioned it. I put a little chain on my cane tip so I don't lose it.

    That does bring up the issue of electrical circuits. Make sure that you size your wiring appropriately for the load and the distance. My compressor draws 30 amps max and is mounted in the bed. I'm using a continous duty starter type relay in the engine bay feeding a #4 cable back to the bed. If you need help with cable size, tell me what the max current draw is for the two compressors and the approx length of the wire run. I can calculate it for you. ;)
     
  14. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:16 PM
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    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    Hey, there you go! That's pretty cool because I've never actually seen inside one. Looks like I got it right though. :D I can't believe somebody cut one in half unless it was brand new. Acetylene is just not something to goof around with.
     
  15. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:49 PM
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    barlowrs

    barlowrs Well-Known Member

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  16. Mar 28, 2012 at 10:42 PM
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    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    Glad to help, I agree about the petcock. I also noticed that the OP didn't have a gauge. He will need one on the tank since the unloader will drop the pressure at the pump as soon as it shuts off.

    My system is a bit more complicated because I also have my air locker controls integrated into it. That is one reason that I wanted the extra water removal. The typical water separater will not work well to catch water vapor, and that is what you will have coming from the pump since it will be very hot. You need the cooling coil to condense the water out.
     
  17. Mar 28, 2012 at 11:11 PM
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    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    You know, a cheaper and simpler way to go for powering ARBs, and airing tires is a CO2 system. You don't have the water issues, or the electrical hookups. You get very fast tire fills. The only downside is occasionally having to fill the tank, but one tank will fill a lot of tires! You might want to have a look at that option. You can get the tanks and regulators on Amazon. A quick search found this:
    http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tank...FG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1333001136&sr=8-14

    All you would need is a cheap regulator and some tubing. I have reasons why I picked a compressor system, but for just wheeling the CO2 would be my choice hands down.
     
  18. Mar 28, 2012 at 11:24 PM
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    joes06tacoma

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    Holy chit!!:eek:
     
  19. May 6, 2012 at 4:50 PM
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    CollegeKevin

    CollegeKevin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So here's an update. This project has been running slower then expected, but I figured I'd share my progress. Changed a lot of ideas around since I first started.

    20120506_164639.jpg

    20120506_175438.jpg

    20120506_175411.jpg

    20120506_175522.jpg

    20120506_175536.jpg
     
  20. May 6, 2012 at 4:55 PM
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    Johns Taco

    Johns Taco I'm not 4x4, and have an open diff. So i'm 4x1

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