One piece drive shaft woes...

I have a set of 3° shims in my garage from my failed attempts at fixing my rear drive shaft vibrations. Let me know if you want them.

 

Speaking from personal experience :

• Yes, TW is correct get a 4" or you will be limited to stock gearing before exceeding the RPM capability of the shaft itself. This is due to the length of the shaft.
• Just buy it from Tom Woods, they are perfect.
• No it will not clear the cross member you have to remove the cross member unless you set your bumps pretty tall.
• It will also rub your ebrake cables coming out of the trans hump ( if you have an auto ), easy fix just adjust their position with some cable ties.
• Your vibration is because your pinion angle is wrong at the axle, as others have mentioned a double cardon shaft needs the pinion perfectly in line with the shaft itself.

 

Toytec solid steel 3* shims ordered. I'll report back when I get them on to see if the 3" diameter shaft will cooperate. If not, they still are offering me a refund so...hey can't hurt

 

Search on line for a drive shaft calculator, measure the length of you drive shaft first. If you know the length and diameter you will find a chart that will tell you what the drive shaft rpm limit is and convert it etc. I think you might be limited to lower speeds with a 3" shaft ? IE: even with a 4" shaft you can't run 4:56 gearing and drive over 70mph...the shaft length is the killer.

 

I have the 4" from tom woods. Couldn't be happier. I did have to cut the carrier bearing cross member.

 

Thanks everyone for your input and experiences! You guys rock

 

So I finally got the 3* axle shims on and it didn't cure the issue I was having. I returned the driveshaft from the local shop and ordered a Tom woods 4" diameter drive shaft. Currently it's in the truck but I haven't gotten a good chance to drive it.

For those who have chopped the carrier bearing mount/cross member ...where did u cut? Any pics?

 

Did you ever install the Tom Woods shaft? I am thinking about buying one and was wondering if they are good shafts.

 

To many members here that have 1 piece drivelines act like its a godsend,real life some times they are,BUT sometimes they do nothing too help with vibes.

 

tacowarrier69 did you ever figure this out?i have 2020 tacoma double cab stock and have all the issues to described to a T! im rolling around a one piece or a double cardon 2 piece....not sure which....id hate to cut the carrier bearing mount and screw myself over done the line....would really appreciate to hear the rest of your experience .

 

If you're still stock, I'd recommend harassing the dealer. Troubleshooting driveline vibrations can be a pain in the ass if you don't have a good set of base values to compare against.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-non-enthusiasts-tacoma-build.667560/page-2#post-23983687

 

Was the driveshaft balanced? I had to travel some distance to find a machine shop that had a machine a while back. Difference was night ‘n day.

 

tacowarrior69 what happened???

 

Unsa

unsatisfying thread... RIP

 

when you had to find a shop to balance your shaft are you talking about the oem 2 piece getting balanced and how many miles were on your truck when you had to do so??mines newer and only has 10,000 miles and im starting to think i may need to get mine checked as well..dealer is of no help.everything is "normal" it could be shitting golden eggs and theyd claim its "normal"

 

Just a FYI. I finally found out what I thought was drive shaft vibrations was my rear wheel bearings. Replaced those and it runs very quiet!