One wheels sticks way out...wtf

If your truck is at all rusty or more than a couple years old, it could be a pain to remove that. Unless you are very confident in removing a fucked up bolt, then don't mess with it. Very likely that anything you do will just make it worse and harder when you pay a shop to fix it.

Using any kind of easy-out or screw extractor is the absolute last thing I would try. Braeaking an easy out is easier than most people think, and I've seen people break them without even trying. Once they break off, then you are drilling through hardened steel to try again. If I have the access I'll drill the head off over using an easy out. Drill the head off, remove whatever is in the way, and then use vise grips on the stud that is left.


Here is what I would try, and in this order:
0. First spray the crap out of it for a week with PB blaster like stated above. Don't use wd-40, it is a crappy penetrant. If you can get to the back where the threads are, or even just to where the bed and whatever mount is under it meet up, spray there. The closer to the actual threads the better.
0.5 Put it through a couple of heat cycles with a torch. Propane is okay, map gas is better. I personally would try to get to the back and not use a torch on the head side. Not only are you using a torch on the bed side, it is less efficient since you actually want to head the threaded part of the bolt, not the head.
You only really need to do the previous spray/heat if the bolt is seized and it was more than the dealer just screwing up the heads.

1. If there is any kind of real estate on the vertical sides of the head, try to use vise grips.

2. If that doesn't work, find an allen key that is just barely too big to fit into the head, hammer it in, and then use a hand impact driver. Something like this:

$39 Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG (I've never used that exact one, just an example). Make sure the bit you get is impact rated, otherwise you'll shatter the bit.

3. If that doesn't work, then break out the dremel and cut slots in the head on either side of where the bit would go. Either use a big flat head screwdriver or pretty much anything you can find that will turn a large flat head. Even just a piece of 1/8" steel and crescent wrench will work. You can also cut a second set of slots to make a phillips head and use the impact driver on that (or the flathead even).

4. If that doesn't work, break out the hammer and a chisel or punch and try to spin the bolt out by hitting the slots you just cut with the punch/chisel. After it is broken free it will probably take a lot less force to spin out.

5. Find a left handed drill bit that is close to the size of the shaft, but slightly smaller. You might have a hard time finding one properly sized for the bolt though. Most common sets only come with a 1/4" as the biggest bolt.

5. If all that doesn't work, it is time to drill the head off and remove the bed to get what is left out of there with some vise grips.


If you have a welder, you can skip most of these and just go straight to welding on a nut and spinning it out with that.

 

5-6 hours, are they using a hand drill?

 

That's a bunch of dudes used to changing oil and air filters, rotating tires and replacing timing belts trying to figure out how to remove a large stripped bolt.

I would be pretty pissed off. They fucked it up while trying to do work that they agreed to. If they weren't confident in their ability to do the work, they shouldn't have agreed to it. They are responsible for damaging the bolt and thus replacing it. When the OP said "I'll just take it back", I'm sure they were more than happy to hand it back to him.

Go talk to the manager, tell them to fix this problem.

 

I did exactly what b.miller said. I wetted the plastic bed around the bolt, took a giant 5/8 thread nut and welded the nut on top of the bolt through the center 5/8 hole, enough to get the bolts off. I then welded the perimeter of the nut around the bolt on a vise and reused the bolts. Eventually I'll replace them with some SS hex ones.

 

What PR said! I had an 89 Ford Probe that went swimming in the Flood of 97....just shy of being totaled, water inside up to just below the dash. Ran a Carfax on it a couple years later (they offered a free one) and it showed the car as "Clean". So beware of what Carfax says...might show some stuff, but definitely not all!

 

sub'd because mine looks the same way

 

My 2014 Tundra is the same way, ever since brand new. Hasnt had any negative effects, just a bit strange how it's shifted over

 

I never did follow up on it. It would have been a pain in the ass because they stripped one of the bolts. As long as it's just a cosmetic thing I suppose I'll live with it.

 

Yeah I measured my wheels hub to outer edge of tires and they're both the same. I think it is my bed, if I move the bed will bumper move with it?

 

It will not. Bumper is frame mounted via the tow hitch.

 

Well if it ain't broke, it drives fine anyway and I bought it brand new. I'll just leave it alone