Ontario BS Thread

God dang right they are.

 

These are larger than i thought...

 

On a side note, found an electrical gremlin.
Horn doesn't work when i press on the steering wheel but horn works when the panic button is hit.
Not sure how long it has been out for and found a a 10a fuse was blown.

Not sure what it could be but i assume that i might need to install a relay for the old Hella horns i have. Didnt need it before, not sure why now. Any ideas?

 

That land cruiser is so manly, the Tacoma blew a fuse just parking beside it.

 

If the wiring size is correct, then it’s a bad horn, keep an eye if it blows again.

 

Do you have an add a fuse off of that fuse holder?

The horn could have some corrosion at the connectors maybe causing some resistance? If I recall the horns are grounded through the bracket attaching to the front hood latch support piece. Last time you used the horn it could have blown the fuse. Panic button still worked though.

 

Where was that taken? Interesting to see the Ranger hoodie!

 

yeah, the hoodies where interesting. Canada games center in Whitehorse. Rememberance Day ceremony.

 

Will keep an eye out.

This might be the case, the spade connectors are exposed lol.

 

The security horn is separately mounted in front of the passenger side cowl and works in conjunction with the main horns. This so a thief can't reach thru the grille and cut the alarm. The security horn is on a separate circuit with its own S-HORN fuse and S-HORN relay:



You have the yellow Sharptones right? They are rated for 3.5A each or 7A total. You can measure the resistance of each horn and see if either one is shorted. Normally you'd expect 12V/3.5A = 3.4 ohm. If you measure less, say 2 ohm, that could cause a problem.

Are you using heat shrink insulated connectors for the 12V input to the horns, as shown on Hella's web site?

 

It could just be a perfect storm of things. @7A total we are on the edge of what the fuse is able to handle in the environment. According to Littlefuse their 10A fuse will handle a good bit more than that indefinately.


Could the horns actually be drawing way more than their spec? Definitely worth verifying, +/-20% should not be unexpected on ratings like these.


The datasheet has another clue. The all mighty derating curves. At 50C (not an unreasonable low underhood temp in the summer idling on the trail and getting honky with your mates) The 10A fuse is already down a few amps in capacity.



Fuses will sustain damages over time and weaken when brought near these limits. This could cause latent failures that seem inexplicable.

I would recommend upgrading the cct for a 15A fuse. Tones of headroom across the entire operating range.


charts sourced from here https://www.littelfuse.com/media?re...af1&filename=littelfuse-datasheet-297-mini32v

 

I know the security horn, i relocated mine along side the winch control box. But that explains what "S-horn" fuse now.
Thanks for the schematics, i see how its wired but in image 2 shows it as 2 seperate circuits even though they both go off; would mean it's wired like this:

Otherwise, explains why horn blows and not both.

Yes i'm running the sharps, i need to borrow a voltmeter now.
Not the insulated ones. Might be crappy tire or could be princess auto. I rememberd that the wiring i put was the temporary harness...

 

They're separate circuits. When the alarm sounds, the body ECU provides the coil grounds (pin 2) to both the HORN relay and the S-HORN relay. When you press the airbag cover on the steering wheel, you manually provide the coil ground to only the HORN relay.

 

Good possibility its drawing more than needed, going to install a relay that is activated by the horn output (2 wires) ) and provide live (fused to 15A) power to the horns themsel!es

 

Oooooh ok that makes sense,
So if i set up what i told @somebody above, that should still work then

 

Forgot to draw in, stuff and inline 15A fuse into the red line
This would be a more permanent solution that the forgotten temp one that i have now

 

^Not knowing what caused the fuse to blow, that may be barking up the wrong tree. If you are using uninsulated connectors, the horns being splashed with brine could cause a short. Could also be mice chewing on wires, etc.

 

I feel itll create a more isolated testing enviornment.
As most relays trigger off less than an amp or 2 i wont be straining the wires. i can then put in a 3,5,7.5,10,15a whatever fuse i want into the inline fuse holder that then if it triggers (blows the fuse and not the oem one) it, i know its the connections at the horns and nothing OEM/ intenal

 

PSA: SAIL Oshawa is having a large sale on knives right now. 60% off a few.

(pun unintended)

 

I was in the gta...didn't get any knives...got something else.