Ontario BS Thread

Good to know.

 

Ya, we know your hand injury history

 

Repair shops in the GTA typically charge $120-150/hr. When you pay $159 for product+labor, you should have a realistic expectation of how much time they'll spend on it i.e. not very much. The day before your rustproofing appt, put the truck on ramps, remove your skid plates, remove the spare, and pressure wash your frame and undercarriage as much as you can.

Most Canadian Tire service centers offer Corrosion Free, which is similar to Krown and Fluid Film. They charge about $100 for basic underbody spray or $140 with rockers and doorsills; it's even more of a rush job. I used 1.5 cans of Fluid Film on my 4Runner after the Canadian Tire appt to cover areas they missed.

 

Precisely accurate...as usual. I do same. And ima fan of krown cuz they spend 90 mins on it including hand wash after. I also do the can touch-up when I swap winters and all season.

 

I knew I should’ve stuck with the right hand.

 

so the 4 inch cowl snorkel induction pipe, whoever the frick you wanna call it. Shit's loud

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q57z9BhKnwU

Inb4 bad driving but yeah, review is here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-cowl-induction-snorkel.731453/page-11#post-29177473

 

Just tell people you installed a V8!

+100 trail points.

 

But they're gonna hear it

 

If you want to go louder above 3k, do the resonator delete: https://www.amazon.ca/HPS-57-1600-RED-Silicone-Hose-Kit/dp/B07H2PQ6M5

 

just install one of these dispensers in the back

 

>$300


thanks for the laugh

 

this one never gets old. lol.

 

So I had my 2021 Tacoma sprayed at the dealership in Toronto which guaranteed there would be no rust for the life of the vehicle and transferable if I do the yearly touch up.

Well I missed my touch up last year so I got it done at krown this weekend for peace of mind. I feel bad I got it drilled now, looking into some forums Toyota or the dealership will not honour the original rust proofing warranty.

Just out of interest will the drilling be a big deal if I do sell years from now? Has anyone had problems with the holes?

 

Those holes have just cut the value of your truck in half. Cut your losses now and sell to me for 1/2 price.
Lol.
Welcome to the site. Come out to the clean up in the middle of the month.

 

Krown's entire existence is based on them doing things this way. You'll be fine. If your truck rusts on the frame and they drilled the door, there is nothing to deny. But Krown has their own warranty for their work

 

You dodged a bullet. The dealer undercoating traps moisture and will rust out your frame faster than if you had no undercoating at all. Removing it is expensive because it gums up any wire wheel it touches (though $$$$ dry ice is effective).

 

I have a question this morning hopefully I can get some answers.
I gave up on my parking brake about 2 years ago. never use it anymore because it never rally worked well enough to hold the truck on a slight incline. its the one located just to the right side and under the steering wheel where you right knee would be. sometimes I felt like i was pulling my wrist off to apply it.
I did check it and it needs rear parking brake cables but before i do that...
Dose anyone have this style of parking brake and dose it work for you?

 

Your parking brake setup is the same as mine with an addition of a third cable that goes to that handle. Typically you need to change the cables that go from drums to the cabin only. If you want to go fancy you can grab parking brake handle from the third gen and it should bolt on to the location where mine is too (check if you have those mounting holes under console) that way you don’t need to deal with that pull handle.

I just changed mine, easy job about one hour for both sides plus the time to do rear drum brakes. 12mm bolts on the frame all around.

 

Thanks for the information.

 

I have and use this style daily.
I’ve replaced both rear cables in the past, because the plastic sheathing cracked allowing the steel cable to rust and swell inside the sheathing. This made the cable seize where it enters the drum backing plate.
A year or two after replacing the cables, and messing about with the start wheels to get tighter engagement, I realized there was lots (about 5-10 clicks worth) freeplay. I assumed the new cables stretched over time, creating the slack. I adjusted the cable balancer under the drivers cup holder by taking up 1/4” of slack (freeplay). Been at least a year now and she holds damn tight. that adjuster was 5 minute ordeal, pull straight up on the cup holder, two 12mm wrenches, cup holder straight back down