Oooooo, look what I found.

No, I want a long block instead of replacing the head gasket. Overheated then the a p0306 code shortly after the water pump and tstat were replaced. New plugs, moved coils, and the same code.

Silly to do one without doing the other. And now that the top end is all nice and tight, that's gonna put additional stresses on the bottom end. At 240k miles, I don't think the bottom end will last, maybe a year...

 

^Seems to me the blown head gasket was the initiating event. Leak path between cyl #6 and water jacket caused coolant to be contaminated and overheated. Leak path also caused the low compression in cyl #6 and the misfire code.

140-150 psi in the other cylinders look OK. I don't think replacing the head gaskets would put more stress on the bottom end. Not sure if you've had the truck since new. 240k may or may not be a lot for 1GR depending on how it's maintained.

 

Out of curiosity did your mechanic give you a shop time of how long this swap would take? and approximate cost excluding engine?

I only have 130k on mine but love the truck and plan on keeping it for a long time, always wondered what it would cost to have a shop do a swap later on instead of doing it myself.

 

That has been my experience, rebuild the heads and the bottom end dies soon thereafter. Now I rebuild the whole engine.

 

At 240° you head or heads are warped. No doubt. Going to need to get them machined. Looking at .004" -.006" deflection. Highly highly unlikely that the torque to yield head bolts are still within their stretched tolerance. Check for sure, as it could save you from having to replace all of them. A special socket it needed to remove/install the head bolts.

I have the Snap-On p/n if you need it? I'll need to upload the picture though.

 

Had the truck since new. Mobil 1 with a d3 filter every 3-5k. Been a while, but I have seen motors with fresh top ends crack rings and shit in other cylinders. I only want to do this once..

he said a couple days and about a grand with labor and fluids.

 

If this is an automatic, think about changing the radiator. Helps with avoiding the dreaded "pink milkshake"

 

The bigger the glob, the better the job

 

Haha haha, you're funny. Good point though. I will have it flushed at a radiator shop

 

Not being funny. Look it up.

Radiators are considered wearable parts and they are cheap. Flushing is really not the best answer.

 

What year is your truck?

 

I'll check out getting a replacement radiator... it's an'06

 

I just went through his with my 06' too, luckily I caught mine early and never saw a temp over 202 on my scan gauge so the heads were still in good shape. I heard air bubbles behind the dash in the mornings then a few months later started having coolant overflow under the hood from the coolant reservoir ...then noticed bubbles in the coolant resi which was the big sign it was a head gasket leak. Never had the sludge on the cap or any bad looking oil. I just had it all fixed last week, when they got into it the water pump had a similiar prob as yours although not as bad and the radiator definitely needed to be replaced too. We went ahead and replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys because they are notorious for failing around 150k too. Heads were sent to the machine shop and barely needed any work at all, valve seats were still great too.

I had the same thought about the bottom end giving up after tightening up the top end but was told by a few local shops that these new motors are really tight and the bottom ends are generally still in excellent shape and can handle the top end being tightened up.

My head gasket work was $1550 plus the water pump, radiator and pulleys.

 

What's the temp now?

 

Operating temp seems to go from 185- 195 ish, I was told that is the normal range.

 

That is. Unless you add in a cooler T-stat, or other related items.

 

That's a helluva good price, most shops charge $3-4K, I did mine myself for about $800 without the radiator and pulleys, but machining the heads, all of the gaskets, water pump and head bolts.

 

Saw the motor today. It's an 05 with 78k...grrrr, wtf. Oh well, no matter, it's here and the guy will have the old motor out tonight, new one in tomorrow and hopefully ready on Thursday.

The motor doesn't look all new England nasty. The dust covering the block has more of a sand/light tan color

Getting a new radiator under 2 bills. Might as well. Whatever was on the bottom of the radiator cap is in the radiator.

Anything else I should spend money that I don't have right now on? Lol.

 

The water pump and tstat are brand new on the junk motor. He's moving them over. Plugs too and he's keeping a couple extra coils for me.

 

I swear I was rock solid at 180° for the longest time as reported by the scan gauge. Temp started creeping up a while ago... Well over a year ago. It'll be interesting to see what it runs at now.