Opinion on tackling this surface rust

Could all that be done in two days? While I'm down south getting the truck the weather will be warmer and there won't be any salt or slush on the bottom of the truck, but I'll have limited time. Once it's back up here (central New York) I don't think I'll have the climate to do a proper job.

 

^ four year old frame ? (ignored by the looks of that fuel tank skid) Lol

I'm not sure what's up with the rippling or dented look to the frame
Maybe it's just shadows playing tricks on me ?

I'd take a wire brush to everthing that needs it.
Then maybe treat those surfaces with a liquid rust converter
helps elimate any remaining rust oxidation that the wire brush may have missed.
Turns the red oxide to black and seeps into the tight spots/crevices of the F rails.

Product can be purchased at any automotive paint/body store.
after application... drying, prep and paint it as with any other metal surface.

ie: http://www.factorydirectchemicals.c...ce=googlepla&gclid=CPqLg_Hf8NACFVKIfgodHgwBvQ

I wouldn't coat my frame with a thick tar/paint /or rubberized undercoating
'cuz IMO it'll just hide what's really going on underneath that.
and it's also more effort for frame repair/weld work in the future.

I think alot of folk just drive their junk
and don't care to see or look at what's going on underneath
and then play surprised when their crap has rusted to chit. Lol

IMO the thing that needs be done (besides the initial prep/repaint)
is basically maintenance
annually, at least once every spring-summer wire brush the rust off
prep and repaint with several good coats of paint.
So's it'll survive another winter's torture.

Granted I live in the SW where I can leave metal bare
for a long while before rust appears... as long as it don't rain
or I play in the mountain snow.

But regardless as to whether I live here or there...

I'd still use what I've always used... Krylon semi-flat black "Rust Tough".
IMO this paint best matches the original factory frame paint very well.
I keep a few rattle cans on hand for easy touch up when needed.
The "Rust Tough" is also a rust prohibitive paint.

Rust can be nearly eliminated if a good coat of paint protects the exterior metal surfaces.
But ignoring the undercarriage will likely come to head later down the road.

I would rather spend the time doing the clean up/prep/maintenance
and leave my frame as it originally was.
Bet I could make my frame last a long while in the rust/snow belt.
But then... I would be steadfast in my annual maintenance.

If I did live in the snow/rust belt... I'd likely spray the inside of my frame
with a rust converter, spraying into every existing orifice the frame has.
Then once fully dried... maybe tape closed every hole on the frame
that is located in the boxed (cab forward) section.

Exterior rust can be easily controlled by clean up/re-paint.
But the frame's interior is much more difficult to treat/safeguard.
And is why many of these frames rust from the inside - out.

If there were any rust inside my frame rails... (or if I were unsure)
I'd probably spray some of that rust converter inside my frame.
At least that will turn it to black oxide... let dry completely,
then high pressure spray/mist paint inside the frame using a nozzle/wand to coat it's interior.

You could probably pay someone to do these services...
but I'm a poor sob, so I'd hafta' things myself.

good luck in yer battle

 

To me those spots on the frame look like they are from a very uneven rattle can paint job.

That gas tank skid plate reminds me of my own, which has succumbed to rust. If you find a good aftermarket skid plate, post it here. I'd like to replace mine also.

I just remembered that when the frame on my '01 was replaced, they also replaced the gas tank skid plate. You would then think that that would have been included in the swap.

 

Thanks for the awesome and detailed advice. I will definitely be spraying the inside of the frame rails and then plugging them. The rust on the frame is surface rust on the weld only. As far as the weird paint/ shadow effect, no structural damage, just the new frame. It had the frame replaced at 80K miles and now has 115K miles.

 

I've been scouring this site for reviews on the new frame, but haven't found much. I'm curious if this truck is going to have the same problems as before or if its good to go now. Is there any warranty with the new frame?

 

Well all that glitters isn't gold. The sale of this truck was pending my mechanic inspection (he's a Tacoma guy). Got it up on his lift today and once we had it up, the rust was worse than we thought, despite the new frame. You wouldn't be able to do any work to it without a cutting torch. The shocks were rusted out and leaking, even the new frame was bad. If the truck was going to stay in the south maybe, but it wouldn't last up here in New York. I think my days of looking for the perfect 1st gen truck are done. I'll keep my 97 that is rust free, put a little money into fixing what it needs, and drive it until it goes no more.

 

What do you mean the new frame was bad?

 

More rust than I wanted to deal with for the price and that I was going to bring up to a salty climate.

 

It would be ok if it stayed in Georgia, but I wouldn't get my money's worth in central New York

 

Yeah just for clarification the new frame wasn't turned to Swiss cheese like the old ones but it wasn't in as great of shape as during my inspection on the ground. Also had some leaks here and there and the exhaust needed replacing. If I was rich I'd get it, but I need a truck that's gonna last me if I'm upgrading.

 

Eastwood sells a product specifically to treat and stop rust on the inside of the frame. It's a spray can with a thin nozzle with 4 holes to allow 360 degree spray at the tip to poke through your frame holes and coat the inside. Works well if done right and some patients. Best way to tackle the rear frame and axle is remove the bed with the 4 bolts and gas fill spout and its easy to get to everything.

 

I talked with my guy about that, we spent some time going over treating it, weighed out the options. When it came time to make a final decision (keep or return to seller per our agreement) I decided I didn't have the funds to get the truck and fix it up to the condition I need my next truck to be in. It was a tough call to make since I haven't found a 1st gen so clean before, but I had to go with my gut. If I wasn't so dead set on skiing every weekend I could live in the south where the rust isn't an issue, but it's too much of a gamble to bring it up here, and the seller wouldn't negotiate on the price so I had no options.

 

i didn't read to the end if the thread my bad. Sounds like you made a good decision. if the frame is questionable or needs too much treatment its best to walk even if the rest is clean. i looked a while and inspected lots of Tacomas before settling.

 

I currently have a 97 extended cab 4x4 that only has 168K easy miles on it. Ive owned it for ten years and its as rust free as they get. Other than continuously breaking the exhaust manifold I think it will be more beneficial to me wallet to just put some headers on it, keep it clean and drive it as long as I can. By the time it finally bites the dust I won't be looking at 13 year old trucks for sale but going to a dealer and getting something with a warranty.

Again it was difficult to walk away from this truck i found, but it just wasn't a smart move.

My final advice as someone who has owned Toyota trucks since I turned 16 is that if you already own a 1st gen keep it, get a new frame if you can if its an 03 or 04, but the days of buying a solid one are slowly coming to an end.

 

That's too bad, and really disappointing to hear.

 

You're telling me.