Optimizing Stock Head Unit Reg Cab

Has anyone tested the factory base head unit for wattage output?

i really don't want to change it out [break-in/theft reasons].

since i have a reg cab, i was thinking of using the rear outputs as a type of biamp for the door speakers.

basically, run the front outputs to the "tweeters" and the rear outputs to the "6x9s". i will replace them eventually, i just think this will be more cost effective and add more adjustment. the factory system is so damn bass heavy, i have EQ'd the bass as low as it will go!

thoughts on this?

 

44 reads and nothin?

 

Your tweeters are getting power already. What are you trying to do? If you're looking for increase in volume a new set of speakers will work wonders. Even a cheaper option will be better than stock. Output isn't be more than 10-15 watts.

 

the "tweeters" are sharing power with the 6x9's

by wiring them as i have suggested, i will be able to fade between the tweeter and 6x9 to tailor the sound a bit more then the units EQ.

i do plan to replace them, just want to explore free options for the moment

 

What goal are you trying to achieve with doing this? Do you want more power to the tweets so that they will play louder? IMO, it's a massive waste of time to move all that wire around just to hook up stock speakers

 

more like to lower the output of the 6x9's. again, the stock system is so damn boomy it is annoying.

 

Turn the volume down? If you really want to go to Amazon.com and search for bass blockers. They will get rid of the base completely if you'd like to go that far. Essentially acting as a passive cross over. Other than that I don't really know how to help you withing the restrictions of the stock system. Just for anyone reading that may be able to help what year and radio (I.E. JBL or Non-JBL if 2nd gen) is your truck

 

2013 base model reg cab

again, i have time and wire. i may just try it and see what happens.

worst case, well there really isn't one. i won't give up what little cargo space i do have behind the seat so all audio is going into the doors.

 

You could try it but I don't think it'll work and if you hook up the tweeters to a 6x9 output you may even blow the tweeter from to much power. Good luck either way sorry I couldn't be better help.

 

what do you mean "a 6x9 output" ?

i don't think the head unit knows what speaker is connected. if that were the case you would not be able to replace them with aftermarket speakers.

correct me if i am wrong, but i assume this unit works like every other receiver on the planet. it has an amplifier stage and the outputs from that get connected to speakers. in stock form the only crossovers will be after the amplifier [usually on the speaker itself].

do i have this wrong? do toyota radios do something different?

edit: looking at your setup... you have a set of coaxials running off your aftermarket head unit. this is no different...i just don't want to change the head unit.

 

look into the alpine power pack using the speaker wire inputs.
would require splicing some wires but will give ya 45w x 4ch.

then swap speakers or keep the factory ones depending on how ya like the sound output.

 

you are missing the point.

i have a regular cab truck. the only speakers are lower doors and upper doors.

the front channel output is shared by 2 speakers per door. i want each speaker to have it's own input from the head unit.

so let's say the stock head unit may output 15-20w per channel. this in stock wiring would equate to about 7.5-10w per speaker.

what i propose it using the vacant rear outputs for the lower front door speakers.
this way each speaker can have the 15-20w the head unit produces.

best of all, this is totally free besides wiring and time.