Oregon and Washington BS thread

My pile is nothing compared to that. Just branches from 3 cedars. Probably 2 trailers worth.

 

Question for yall because I don't want to start a new thread. So I bought some LED fogs. I was just gonna cut off the factory plug and the fog light plug and splice the wires together so I could use my whole factory setup (switch, wires, relay, etc)

WELL

The OHV LEDs have bigger wires than the factory and they are designed to run a 30A fuse. The factory fogs use a 15A fuse. If I'm not mistaken this won't work. I will either blow the 15A fuse or if I put in a 30A I will melt wires. Soooo what do I do here. I really really don't want to run 5 more wires through my firewall to an aftermarket switch. I already have a cluster f**k of wires... Any ideas?

 

Use the OE switch to activate a relay placed in the engine compartment fuse panel. You can run an inline fuse off the terminal, and then just run proper wire from there.

 

Took a couple days to rip all that fence out. The crappy thing is I'll have to put that much back up.

I might actually have a 55 gal. drum laying around. Not sure if its totally empty. I'll have to check it in the morning.

 

Erm... Don't get the relay part...

 

Here is an image of what windsor is referring to:



This would only require one wire going through the firewall from the relay to the switch in the cab. You can ground and power the switch from inside the cab.

 

I won't be using a relay until I get things pulling more amps.

 

Relays are a good idea for items that pull a lot of amps. If his lights require a 30 amp fuse, you don't want to run that much power thru the switch. That is where a relay becomes handy.

BTW, was great to run into you yesterday. Sorry I had to run off like that but I was running late for an appointment.

 

Ok so when the switch is flipped it clicks the relay on which opens up power to the lights correct? what's the switched power coming off of the switch? That just to illuminate it?

 

All correct.

The power to the switch in cab is very small, yes to power lights in the switch and to activate the relay.

 

I found a $10 food barrel thanks tho bobert!

Also...
Relays are important!

 

I found a $10 food barrel thanks tho bobert!

Also...
Relays are important!

 

Good running into you too! Wasn't expecting that at all.

On the topic, I don't have anything that runs over 30a for accessories. I need a winch, but I need the front bumper first. Or at least the undercover one that I'm waiting for. I'll have relays for that and relays for a light bar if I go that route.

 

Link to the LEDS you are using?

I find it hard to believe they are gonna pull 30amps. I just installed Rigid SRQ2 (part #93531) using the factory fog harness and switch with no problems. The Rigid put out over 3000 lumens, 34 watts and pull 2.5 amps.

Specifications:
Watts: 34.5
Amp Draw: 2.50
LED's: 6
Raw Lumens: 3030
Lux @ 10m: 206.1
Beam Distance: 287.1 m
Peak Beam Intensity: 20,612 cd

You sure you aren't mixing up wattage with amperage?

 

Also, keep in mind that if you plan on using the factory fog light harness/wiring, it is already protected by a 30A relay in you main junction block

 

i agree with you ben, maybe his numbers are incorrect.

Im running knock of duallys in my fogs, and there wired straight to the factory fog light wires.

 

Hmm you guys make total sense. Here's the specs on their website:
3" Pods

•Lumen Rating: 1,350 (each)
•Beam: 30° Spot
•Watts: 18
•Amp Draw: 1.5
•Operating Voltage: 12V DC
•Color Temperature: 6000K
•Material: Diecast aluminum housing
•Lens Material: Polycarbonate
•Mounting Bracket: Stainless steel
•IP67 rating for dust and water resistance
•Operating Environment: -40~+122°Fahrenheit
•Plug & Play with our Wiring Harness (sold separately)
•Dimensions: 3" Wide, 3" Tall, 3" Deep
•LED chip: CREE XB-D 3W [more info]


Now here's the specs on the wiring harness they sell:
16 Gauge Wire
Length from battery to light: 10ft
Relay: 40 amp
Fuse: 30 amp
2 Light Connections

Dakota confused

 

The reason got the high amp relays and stuff is because of the initial power surge you get. Typically think 10-15amps depending on your setup. Everything has an initial surge.

 

Soooooo yall think I'm fine?

 

Yes. The stock wiring will easily handle an amp draw of 1.5 amps.