ORI-Struts Experience

Linking the rear???!!?!?!?

 

ah you caught it...lol

 

Sweet! Jerry putting a kit together then I assume?

 

Probably not, will see how things go. Still have to wait 10 weeks + for the ORI's.

 

That's sweet man. Stoked to see your setup. Curious about the corner weight though your rear end being as heavy as it is.

 

......dibbs on ur rear leaf springs

 

Got my ORIS in last night, its worth metioning in here that you do have to clearance a small notch in the top hat in order to clear the bolt. Other than that they went in perfectly. Just make sure jerry gets you some misalignment spacers that he's machined. That or be real steady with the grinder

 

Yep. Doesn't take much. JW did mine with a dremel. The driver's side needed more than the passenger side on mine.

 

That's odd the 2 sets I've installed didn't need anything to mount up.

 

Both JW and I had to do ours. He is a pic of the drivers side after JW got done. It was so little you almost can't tell other than the paint is missing. The bolt that mounts the ORI to the top hat doesn't quite fit through the hole in the coil bucket.

 

Good to know I can just clearance the next batch of top hats before powder coat.

 

I ninja edited my post above. It's not the top hat, but the bolt. The head is a little big on those bolts so it doesn't fit through.

Just to be sure we are on the same page, I circled the spot.

 

Yep, thats exactly it. I'll take a pic tonight (doing the rear) so everyone knows what to do. It's pretty straightforward and shouldn't affect anything, but pictures always help.

 

Jerry this is what we clearanced. Charged them up tonight and ran home on them. Will do more running around tomorrow but I know for sure I'm dropping the spring rate down from 90. Could just be that everything is really stiff.

 

90? Is that what you are running in the lower chamber? Try bumping it up to like 110 and lower the pressure in the upper chamber. They seem to ride a bit stiff at first anyway. The upper chamber seemed to control how stiff they road. Increasing the lower chamber helped with body roll and stopped them from bottoming out so harshly. You'll have to drain the upper to see what the lower is at. It will read like 300ish with the upper charged and watch the UCA when raising and lowering or you can break the valves off.

 

Not on mine
The icon billet uniball clears it juuuust fine. I will say, however, that if you're filling the upper chamber and theres already pressure in it, don't go straight on it from the side. Try and work from the front or the back. I had to run get a jack set up because my buddy went to attach the valve and in doong so bled the existing pressure and the truck sat down on his arm. If i had trimmed my fenders before hand that metal probably would've cut his arm off.

 

We just did ours on the ground. Like so:


JW had the fill kit attached at an angle instead of inline with the strut so when he let the pressure out the arm pulled the line down with it and snapped the valve on the upper chamber. Kind of like how you have to be sure to route your Resi lines just right so the UCA's so break them when the suspension cycles. If you make sure it is straight up and down with the strut the UCA's clear just fine and yeah watch your arms!

 

Bump for updates

 

Mine are still doing good thus far. Been gone over 4 months and they haven't lost any air. Haven't had time to play with various PSI's yet. Need to get myself a tank. Taking it out to the desert this weekend. See how it does with all the weight of my rig.

 

I'm still waiting to get my fill kit before I can start messing with them.

Had them out in the desert a couple weeks ago and they did alright, but I could have used a little more compression damping, but can't add it without the fill kit...