ORI-Struts Experience

i'm just reluctant to rely solely on the internal bump.

 

Yep, just as much. Have to cut off front and rear spring hangers and the axle perches for the new ones. Then you have to figure out how you plan to run your shock setup. With the 63's most guys keep the shocks under the bed since they are usually running 12's or 14's. Most of the SUA guys have to cut into the bed to fit the 16's or 18's.

Don't do this!! The strut is an 8" strut of which you are only using 5-5.5" of. Jerry set them up so that the internal bump that limits droop will work as a limit strap to protect the CV axles. That means the extra 2.5-3" of shaft you are not using is on the compression side and I guarantee you will break your CV axles, tie rods and probably rip your LCA's off before you hit the internal bump that limits stuff.

I run super bumps with a 3/8" spacer.

 

Sounds like SUA is out for me, I really like having bed space.

I guess you run a 3/8" spacer because the super bumps are way softer than stock? Since they squish down so far you need to accommodate for that by spacing them up, is that the idea?

When I did the install of the struts and finally had them all bolted in I let the truck down off the jack stands with the struts empty, thus I was at full stuff, riding on the factory bump stops. I took this opportunity to check steering clearance lock to lock on the tires. I didn't feel any binding or anything. Are you sayin that if I lost the factory bumps the suspension would compress so far that parts would be damaged?

 

The stock IFS doesn't have enough travel for the 8" strut the only way to use both bump and limit if the struts would be a custom long travel. In a solid axle application you use the full range of motion i don't run bumps of limit straps on my Tacoma.

 

The superbumps compress a lot shorter than the stock bumps so you gain a little up travel by going to them. Most of the guys running 700lb coils on their C/O's are having to run two spacers to keep the UCA from hitting the coil. I had to add 1 because on my 33's my frame was hitting the ground on hard landings and my UCA's were smashing in to the fenders.

And yes. the suspension will try to compress more than the suspension can compress. It would be the equivalent of running no bumpstop at all...

The metal on the stock bump acts as a spacer, while the superbump has no spacer and will get pretty damn flat at stuff. They ride way better than stock though!


Not the best quality pic, but this is sitting on the bumps (no spacer) with no N2 in the ORI's.

I didn't have much of a bed to begin with since I had a shortbed with the Toyota tool box in it. I have an F150 for when I need a bed now.


As for the Bamf ones there, are you referring to the ORI's? They are just generic 8" struts right from ORI. It's the top hat that Jerry designed to fit the 2nd gen just right. He set them up so that at full droop you wouldn't need limit straps and you won't break your CV axle from over extending it.

They do have bump stops both ways, but a stock width 2nd gen can't use all 8" of travel from the ORI strut and as far as I know the bumps are not adjustable. They are at the last bit of compression and the last bit of extension. I am using about 5.5" of shaft, as you can see in the bumpstop pic above, as full stuff I still have about 2.5" of shaft showing, meaning I am still 2.5" from the internal bump. Because of the 2:1 wheel to shock travel ratio, your wheel has to stuff about 5" more before you will reach that internal bump... and you would break alot of shit before it made it that far.

 

That is correct or limit straps depending on how you set them up.

 

or both if you set it up in the middle...

 

Thanks for the pics Brady! Cool setup, those shocks are serious business!

So how did you know you needed the 3/8" spacer on your bumps? Did that get you to the stock clearance at full stuff? Curious cause I wanna order some super bumps soon.

Also would you happen to know if the rear super bumps are the same as the front? I was kicking around the idea of ordering 4 fronts and just making my own mounts for the rear, it would save decent coinage.

 

When I landed a jump on hard pack and my skid plate dug into the ground hard enough to make your back hurt a little... The tires all cleared at full stuff before (well with some help from a BFH). Adding the spacer was enough to help keep the skid from hitting, or at least hitting that fucking hard.

I think the rear superbumps are the same, but that is just looking at pics. I haven't seen them in person.

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing! From the pics they look identical but I guess there is a difference.

 

That musta been one hella big jump! Even at full bump isn't there still a few inches of skid clearance because of the tire sidewalls? I wonder if you can blow the tire beads if you land hard enough.

 

When you land on the bumps they will compress more than they do just sitting on them. Add in the sidewall flex and you can lose a few inches. Hell I think I lose about an inch of ground clearance just airing my tires down. haha

 

Resi's Boyee!

The first actual welding on the truck! Everything til now has been bolt ons, feels like a milestone!

Pics, ORI remote reservoir.



I have plenty of clearance at full droop, though in the pics it looks like it's very close. I tried to avoid sharp bends on the hose and kind of let it tell me where it wanted to be. Once mounted I twisted the reservoirs a bit so the hose doesn't rub the strut body. A nice bonus is that they're a bit easier to fill this way. Bottom's the same of course but the fill valve on the resi is easier to reach.

Should I be concerned about them hanging so low? The mounts fit the radius of the upper part of the resi so well but it forces the can to hang down a lot.

I got hose clamps for 1-1/16"-2". They fit perfect without a long tail.

 

Yea, the upper schrader valve unscrews from strut body and you screw in an elbow. The new fill schrader is on the reservoir itself. I used teflon tape on all the threads just to be sure. It looked like the factory used some kind of liquid sealant.

Actually I didn't think of this til just now but I probably should check all the threaded fittings for leaks with some soapy water.

 

Just make sure they clear your tires lock to lock. I had one of my tires rub the resi once on the drivers side and reshaped it a tad. I raised it up a little higher to fix that.

Just remove the valve fitting and replace it with the elbow then connect the hose up from the resi. I'm not really sure if they made a difference in ride, but I love how much easier they make filling them. You also don't have the risk of the UCA hitting the filler and breaking off the valve as the strut extends during fill up. n0rth and I have both done that once...

 

If they do leak you will find out the next morning. I had one that had a slow leak and was flat the next day.

 

right on

 

Is that the factory jack?! I had no idea it went so high. I never even touched mine yet, lol! Back before I got plate bumpers and sliders I had a hi-lift jack with the lift mate accessory. I figured I could jack up from the wheel and use the oem jack as a jack stand to change a tire or whatever.

 

Yeah. I keep it around because Hi-Lifts and snow do not mix. That little guy has saved my ass a few times.

 

good to know!