Original timing belt off 1 tooth, stretched, skipped?

Timing belt is the last thing I need to do before putting the cab back on so got started late this afternoon, so easy with nothing in the way. Anyways lined up the marks and with the cam sprockets lined up the crank is off one tooth, unless I'm missing something. Not sure why, if the belt was stretched pretty sure it would be off in the other direction, maybe it skipped a tooth. I've only started this thing a few times before I tore it down and never ran it on the road. Either way this belt is 18 years old with 154,000 miles on it and in pretty bad shape. Hopefully get time tomorrow afternoon to finish it up.







Yeah this one is way overdue! The po had no idea it had a timing belt that had to be changed.

 

damn..

 

Damn is right. That looks horrible. Prob. jumped on a startup at some point.
You wouldn't believe how many Lexus owners I've met who don't know about timing belts when they brag how many miles they have on their 400,430,460.

 

I’m sure that belt has another 50,000 miles in it.

 

Looks like your water pump could be leaking, hope you're changing that too.

 

Yeah for sure, got the complete Aisin kit. You'd be crazy not to. Spent plenty of time making sure the gasket surface was perfect too, would hate to have a leak and have to tear it all apart again. Happened to a buddy of mine, he had to go back in again. Done for the day though I'm heading out to my camp.

 

crank seals and cam seals

 

I know this is old, but were you able to get your new belt on? I used what sounds like the same kit from eBay and it is damn near impossible to get the belt lined up correctly on the crank after putting it on the water pump and the cams. I’m like 1/2 a tooth off and STRUGGLING.

 

Try putting the idler on real loose and last. Get the belt all set up and ready to slip on, use the idle to put some tension on the belt. Be careful not to push to hard the belt pulls on the cams and one moves. Another tip is to have the belt half off the pulleys, sometimes it’s easier to get it all started and once you get the last bit started it’ll all slide on.
I’ve struggled with getting all different timing belts on and those two things have always helped me.

 

I’ve tried all kinds of stuff. Idler is completely loose. The tension and hardness to get on isn’t coming from there. It’s getting it lined up on the cams down the to water pump to the crank. I’m half a tooth off and it seems impossible at this point. Me and a buddy tried for like two hours last night.

 

You should start at the crank. The way I did it was the right side (while looking at it) first. Thus, when you get the belt on all the slack is on the left side where the tensioner will then take up. @Timmah! Is the man with videos/explanation maybe he can chime in and better explain...

 

I would’ve never attempted it if it wasn’t for his video. Big shouts to the guy. I guess my question is: the belt case with markings, I line those up on the cams(in theory it shouldn’t matter if the engine is at TDC or not if the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the cams/crank), wrap around water pump and I’m 1/2 tooth off on the crank it’s damn near impossible to get that 1/2 tooth extra. Pics later. I’m at a loss. Counted the teeth on the old belt vs new and they’re identical. I’m at a loss. Somebody ride over and do it for me lol.

 

Going to try a few different ways that I’ve seen worked for others before I give up. Either way I gotta wait for a used harmonic balancer to get here from 2.5 hours away on eBay..... shipping snail mail so hopefully here tomorrow like it estimates. Jackasses that did the job last time obviously didn’t torque the crank bolt right because it was loose when I went to loosen it and the balancer had a gouge from the key. So a new key and a used balancer later, maybe I’ll be in business. Just gotta get this frickin belt on first.

 

Back off the crank a 1/2 notch and put the belt on the right notch leading all slack to left then take up slack on crank taking ALL slack on right side and making left plenty loose. If I have to let the tensioner down a bit to get on that last I do that. For some reason I never have trouble shooting up a 1/4" drive straight from bottom to snug back up the hydraulic tensioner so I do that.

 

Exactly what I did to take tensioner off/put on... I did that last night in an effort and when it said and done, the crank was around 1/2 tooth but no more off when both cams were lined up top... seems like the only thing is that if there is some slack on the right side, which there will be if I do it that way, then will the tensioner take care of it?

Also, if the lines on the belt are lined up with the lines on the cams and crank, isn't that "in time" Just really don't want to button this thing all the way up just to immediately tear it back down because it isn't timed right.

Also, is there a way to check the timing before putting all those covers and accessory drive belts on... This would mean 0 coolant, harmonic balancer installed, and cam bolt torqued to spec. Will that cause any damage for 3 seconds of run time with no coolant?

 

If you make ALL the slack on the left (tensioner side) by tightening up the right side with harmaonic balancer bolt, then looking at timing marks, you're going to be good to go when using the tensioner grenade pin last. (The tensioner CAN be reset, not the end of the world. Takes a vice or GIANT channel locks)

Don't forget you would have to pull tensioner pin to run it for 3 seconds too. It's not a suggested step. Just rotate twice and check timing marks. the chalk marks will be lost after 1 turn so don't look for those to ever line back up unless you start all over again.

 

If you think that belt is hard, try doing the nissan 4.0 chains do not like to be stretched one bit. Doing tensioners last is usually best bet, if the 3.4 will let you don't even attach the tensioner till after the belt is set and marked. Not sure how that motor is set up.

 

Once again. I always let my hyd. tens. droop a bit 'til belt is on top, then tighten into place. to keep from prying the belt anywhere. Once belt is pn top there is no more pre tension when it's all hanging straight.

 

Tried that last night, but we weren’t able to get it. Going to get a fresh start on it tonight. Doesn’t help it’s 40 degrees out.

Tensioner is hanging loose allowing pulley to go down all the way.

Going to try it again now and post some pics so you have a better idea of what’s going on. My harmonic balancer is toast thanks to the losers that didn’t tighten the crank bolt down to spec last time it was done. Chewed up the key and I had to buy a new key and used balancer. USPS never ceases to amaze me at how slow their shipping is. It was coming from 2 hours away and I ordered on Tuesday. Should’ve just messaged the guy and told him I’d pick it up.

Preciate the help tho and sorry to revive an old thread.... although I’ve never understood why people get so frustrated at that and want a new one made when this is the first one that popped up on Google and already has useful info. Why not add to it? Whatever. That’s my soapbox. Going to shop now.

 

its been a while
hadnt work on ANY Toyotas

i could be mistaken........................after the tensioner is removed
it actually will lose approx 1 tooth