Otis24's Otisbound Outdoors Bodonkadonk Supercharged Twin Locked Micro Camper Build (OOBSTLMC)

Nice! Thanks! I'm looking forward to this. I love how clean your truck looks in the engine bay.

 

Amazing what a little split loom and some zip ties can do. Hides many sins.

 

For while I've been saying my next biggest mod would be a daily driver so I can park my truck and keep the miles off it. Last Monday I bought the Taco a taquito.



So far, with a lot of help from my good friend, we've rebuilt the carbs, replaced the fork seals(they puked oil all over the front brake pads) replaced the front brake pads, replaced the battery and I bought a helmet and gloves.

I'm at about just under $1,000 for a 50mpg vehicle.

 

I got the motorcycle all fixed up. Now where to mount a light bar to it? I've driven the truck about 12 miles in the last 7 days! It's so nice to be able to get back and forth to work all week for $10 instead of $50!

 

I cleaned the throttle body along with the MAF sensor the other day. The truck idles so much smoother now. It seems to have a little more power. I drove it to work today. It normally downshifts on a couple inclines here and there. Today - no downshifting.

 

I bought some 6 ton jack stands from Habor Fright on sale for $40.



Replaced my inner tie rod and boot.

 

Got some CVJ Axels with high angle silicon boots. Hopefully those will go on next week.

Made a coat for the fridge. It's a bit half assed but I did only spend about 5 minutes on it.

 

I had a little overheating over the weekend driving up Hull Mountain Road in Mendocino National forest. The over heating lead to the transmission temperature light. I took it to a shop....they say it's good to go although it should have a thorough flush and make sure there are no metal shavings in the pan. I think I can do that myself. In the mean time they're going to do a drain and fill. I also flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat. It probably didn't need the thermostat but I think it's been around for a pretty long time. Also just broke 198,000 miles.

The taquito has been running great. It didn't have front turn signals or mirrors when I bought it so I put some mirrors with integrated turn signals on the front. The signals would blink super fast. I finally installed an adjustable relay to take care of that.

It was burning through brake light/tail light bulbs like mad. I replaced them with LEDS but the brake light wouldn't come on. I figured the LED was at MAX brightness with just the tail light so I added a resister. Now all is well.

 

What did those axels set you bac?

 

$467 for the pair...core charge is $150. Once I send back the old axles they'll be $317 for both. The red high angle silicon boots are $42.something each axle.

got some new tires yesterday. 255 85 R16 Maxxis BigHorn M-762. They're a bit more than 33" tall and 10.5" wide. They're much quieter on the highway than I thought and drive okay so far. They rub a little on the frame at full lock.

The new issue is that I've had a vibration for while around 60 mph and faster. The vibration is now significantly worse.

 

Is the vibration front or rear? Have you already installed your axles? Perhaps time for the ECGS bushing? Unless your vibes are in the rear...
Truck's looking good Mark!

 

I'm not really sure where it's coming from. There isn't much vibration in the steering wheel. The 4wd drive/low range stick vibrates like mad. The thing is a blurr. My passenger seat vibrates a lot. I just replaced my carrier bearing...that made no difference.

Once I have my front facing camera set up I'll be able to move it around the bottom of the truck and see if there is anything obvious. It's mounted on neodymium magnets so it's movable. Maybe I'll get that going this weekend while at camp on slick rock trail. I have all the parts with me.

I'm hoping to do the axles next week sometime or the following Sunday. I'm bringing one as a spare with me this weekend. Maybe I'll replace it on the trail just for kicks (probably not)

I thought the ECGS bushing was for 2nd gens?

 

I thought so too. The version I linked above "fits 86 to 04 Pickups, T100, Tacoma and up to 02 4runner". Might be worthwhile to do when you do the axles.
Oh, and thanks for confirming that you are using neodymium magnets. I was worried that you went with samarium cobalt instead.

 

Yeah, I was worried about the brittleness so went with the neomydiums instead.

Oh yeah...there's a link! Thanks, I'll have to order those. Might as well right?

 

I've had the auxiliary fuel tank for about 10 months. Over all it's working out really well. It's very easy to use. All you do is push a button, an LED light comes on and you set a timer. It takes about 10 minutes to go from a half tank to 3/4 tank. I typically get 500 miles out of a fill up. Last week I filled up, drove to work for 2 days, drove to slick rock, drove the trail, drove home, used my truck to go mountain biking and finally need fill up again. I got 465 miles out of that tank. In Mexico it was invaluable to be able to fill up my friend's motorcycles in the middle of no where from the tank. As far as clearance it sits higher than my spare.

Now for the bad. The biggest negative is user error. I overfilled the stock tank (didn't set a timer) and killed my evap canister. Those are $200 so that kinda hurts. Also because the filler neck has a low elevation compared to the aux tank you can only fill the tank to about 16 gallons rather than the full 19 gallons of the tank...oh well. Because the filler neck pokes through the side of the bed when I go wheeling I tuck it back into the fender well behind the rear wheel. Other than those things it works great.

What I might change or do differently if I were to do it again -
-I'd route the filler neck through the rear wheel well. I might still do this but the fuel filler hose is expensive. This would allow me to fill the aux tank to 19 gallons rather than 16 and would make the side of the truck much cleaner. Not to mention not having to drill a hole in the bed side.
-I'd like to install a chip that reads off the stock sending unit. When the main tank get's down to half full it automatically turns on the aux tank pump and shuts off when the main tank gets to 3/4 full. It would also shut off when the aux tank is empty. There would still be a manual switch for pumping into other vehicles.
-maybe add a skid plate. This hasn't been an issue so far...maybe I've just been lucky.
-CBI frame reinforcement plates. I have them I just need to weld them on.
-rear tire swing out. The rear tire currently lives in the bed on top my sleeping platform in front of the fridge on it's slide. It takes up a lot of space. Also when I get a flat I have to pull everything out of the back including my fridge and slide.

 

My Anderson connectors came in the mail yesterday. Thanks @EDDO for the idea!

 

Nice! What are your plans for those?

 

Pretty much the same set up as your's.

One connector coming from the battery. The rest of the connectors going to the winch (which I won't have for about another year or something), compressor and jumper cables.

I probably won't do anything with them for a few weeks. I have a transmission leak which I think is coming from either the dipstick tube or the pan gasket. I also have to install the new CV axles still. Now that I only drive it once a week I take forever to do any repairs.

Also, I got 50mpg on a tank on the motorcycle the other day. That's the best I've gotten so far. I'm going to replace the air filter and sync the carbs maybe next weekend. I should get a few more mpgs after that. I've been averaging 44.something but that includes two tanks where one of the coils wasn't working so it was running on 2 cylinders instead of 4 and only got about 35mpg.

 

I have the lug crimper thing if you want to borrow it when you are ready. Works with a BFH to apply the crimp.

 

Yet another use for sliders -
The impact gun in this pic has been super useful. It's gigantic and heavy but it was on sale at Harbor Freight for $40. It also has either on or off. There's no modulating the speed.
It took me 3.5 hours to reinstall my transmission pan with a new gasket, fill the tranny and replace both CVs. Mostly thanks the impact gun for removing bolts. I thread all bolts by hand and finish with a ratchet and then a torque wrench. I do use the impact for replacing wheel lug nuts before using the torque wrench on them.


My passenger sway bar end link has been broken for months. I finally cut it off with the angle grinder. The driver side end link hex nut was stripped out and the bolt was seized so I chopped it off.


New CVs's Yay!


There was definatetly something wrong with this one. This was an O'Rielly's with about 20,000 or so miles on it. The boot ripped after about 5,000 miles. It's replacement will become a spare on wheeling trips.


I still need to top off the diff from the 8-12 oz the dribbled out while replacing the axles. I also need to add one more quart of transmission fluid and replace the skid plates. After that I'm all set.