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Our AC system SUCKS

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 12TRDTacoma, Jun 30, 2018.

  1. Jul 23, 2018 at 9:08 PM
    #441
    mikalcarbine

    mikalcarbine Well-Known Member

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    Mine does this too, from what I read others have this and it is normal
     
  2. Jul 23, 2018 at 9:10 PM
    #442
    unixadm

    unixadm Well-Known Member

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    My 2015 does this, as did my 2005 4Runner. I believe it has something to do with the thermistor on the evaporator.
     
  3. Jul 23, 2018 at 9:13 PM
    #443
    Nunya Bizness

    Nunya Bizness A-A-Ron aka Stunny Gunny

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    In my last truck that was 2nd gen it never had any issues with AC. It regularly gets in the 100+ here and it always kept up.
     
  4. Jul 23, 2018 at 9:13 PM
    #444
    TheFang

    TheFang No Big Deal

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    Awesome, thanks for the input.
     
  5. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:17 PM
    #445
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Here’s more data WITH the fan on
    7A405546-890D-4355-A1C1-60D5F8D4D3B3.jpg After two minutes it reached this temp vvv900136BF-1433-4B44-9CF0-09447EC66A75.jpg after driving down the street vvv 590FBDBF-58BA-4153-A516-55B9B1DDE921.jpg and after idling for a few mins (e fan on)

    F9060811-0FEC-4AC4-8953-E2C366D4F356.jpg

    That’s 70* vent temp at idle in 95 degree ambient temp.

    Absolutely not acceptable IMO. 70* air felt barely cool at all. Also these fans on high blow about half the amount of air as other vehicles.
     
  6. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:21 PM
    #446
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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    Man I wonder if my thermostat is fcked up or my AC really sucks this bad, but I can barely get it under 60 F. The lowest I have seen is 57 F.

    Thats not idling temp, my idling temp goes up to 75-80 usually unless I rev up.
     
  7. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:23 PM
    #447
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    That’s pretty bad. Mine will still get below 50 even if it’s 100+ out but that’s only if I’m freeway driving. City driving like today it stayed around 50-60 which isn’t too bad but still not satisfactory
     
  8. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:26 PM
    #448
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Only vent I tried was by the driver door and that was warmer. I’ll try the others

    I’m pretty bummed that the fan doesn’t do anything.

    May try a spal medium duty 11” fan
     
  9. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:27 PM
    #449
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I think I have a charge issue. Which is upsetting because I’ve had Toyota recharge it less than a year ago. It probably was not done correctly.

    The furthest passenger vent seems to blow the most air to me, which makes me think it is the most direct path. But when testing AC systems usually you are supposed to pick from thr middle vents from the videos I have seen.
     
  10. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:29 PM
    #450
    Murphinator

    Murphinator Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if it’s possible but can you use some foam weather stripping to seal the fan to the condenser so there is no other path for air to go?

    Not sure if you’ve tried that already but maybe the air is escaping somehow
     
  11. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:32 PM
    #451
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Thought about that but I think the cheapo fan may just be too weak. Should have just ponied up and gone spal. 9” on the drivers side and maybe a 11” on passenger side would fit well
     
  12. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:52 PM
    #452
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Haha just duct tape your 'local yard worker' to your hood and bring an extra gas can.
     
  13. Jul 24, 2018 at 1:55 PM
    #453
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Just tested the passenger vent...couple degrees warmer.

    Here it is after driving a steady 40-50mph

    About 44 degrees
    0481FB4C-B722-4AA7-BDB6-514F1ACFE44E.jpg
     
  14. Jul 24, 2018 at 2:10 PM
    #454
    TomTwo

    TomTwo I love God but I cuss a little

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    Yea after measuring the area I need it to go I canceled the 12 inch fan and now am looking for a 10 or 8 inch fan. I have a 10 inch fan here somewhere off of an ambulance so I am digging through boxes trying to find it.
     
  15. Jul 24, 2018 at 3:07 PM
    #455
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Boosted
    This is not a sustainable long term solution as the probability of premature blower motor failure would increase due to the air deadheading at the closed off vents. You would be surprised how much blower fans don't like that. This is especially true in home HVAC systems.
     
  16. Jul 24, 2018 at 3:18 PM
    #456
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    I stand by my statement :rofl:if it happens we need pics too
     
  17. Jul 24, 2018 at 3:23 PM
    #457
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    <<< Electrician and electronics tech here.

    That is incorrect. In truth the blocked off discharge causes current draw on the blower motor to reduce significantly as the blower is not moving any air it is doing less work and drawing less current.

    Validation: http://hvacrfundamentals.blogspot.com/2009/08/understanding-centrifugal-fan-motor.html

    Understanding Centrifugal Fan Motor Performance

    Since air is what we work with it makes sense to insure that our students understand airflow and fan performance. Fan motor performance is one of the most often misunderstood aspects air conditioning systems. The amp draw on a centrifugal fan goes down as resistance to airflow is increased. For most people this seems counterintuitive. It is easy to picture the fan motor pushing harder to overcome the resistance and increasing in amp draw. However, this is exactly backwards. Centrifugal fans move air by throwing the air outwards through centrifugal force. The amount of air the fan is moving decreases as the resistance to airflow increases. If the fan blades are moving less air, they can actually spin easier because there is less air to sling. This causes the motor RPM to increase and the motor amp draw to decrease.
     
  18. Jul 24, 2018 at 3:29 PM
    #458
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    That has to have been one of the most interesting reads I have ever seen. I might actually read this over a few good times because this revelation alone to me is like new groundbreaking knowledge over what I thought used to be correct.
     
  19. Jul 24, 2018 at 3:35 PM
    #459
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    All of those solutions are horrible, and not because I think they are bad ideas, but simply because they are solutions that should not even be something we are talking about in the first place. I feel like we might as well not even have an AC system since our junks put out 70* temperature at idle. I laugh as I write this, but it's laughable because it is true. Like window tint, and cabin insulation, this stuff should not even be in the talks.

    The only thing which would be a great overall solution would be increasing the overall charge capacity, which could be done by increasing condenser capacity. Even just a few points of a lb. above what we got would be suffice.
     
  20. Jul 24, 2018 at 3:43 PM
    #460
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    You are not alone, many people draw the conclusion that the current draw will increase. On the surface that makes perfect sense, but the facts are quite the opposite. I remember as a young lad starting out I made a bet $$ that the current would increase. We set up a blower fan and connected an amp probe to the motor leads. Ran the fan and read the current draw then blocked off the discharge and read the draw and I was amazed that the current on that particular motor dropped by nearly half. :eek:
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2018
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