Outter end of CV axle rubbing hub assembly (Bad Hub Press Job)

Yup that’s exactly what I did. Glad my tripod roller didn’t fall off. That sucks.

I just followed Timmy’s manual hub conversion video. Support the wheel bearing when pressing the hub, apply even pressure with an old wheel bearing, and press things with properly sized sleeves. The machine shop used a giant splined press sleeve and gouged out my spindle, didn’t support the bearing, and used a fake koyo bearing after they broke one of the Toyota Koyos bearings I brought them. Just a nightmare of a press job.

 

It’s not a job for meatheads. I did mine w/ a 20t harbor freight press, bought for the job. Had all types of spacers, tube stock and plates to support it. I will tell you this, even w/ heat and a pipe on the jack handle it didn’t break free willingly. I tossed my welding blanket on it to keep from getting killed. When that sucker broke free I vividly remember crapping my pants. Lol

 

Damn!

Must be quite the interference fit on those spindles and bearings.

 

I just checked the ABS sensors on both spindles. No shavings inside either spindle. This is after two wheeling trips, a few 3 hour drives, and my daily driving. Probably about 1000 miles since the press job.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I can shed some light.

Durago hubs are not all sent out within tolerance on the ID of the bore that the needle bearing sits in. Some are slightly too small, which pinches the bearing, and causes what you see. On mine, you could turn the bearing clockwise and it would almost "thread" itself on the cv shaft, once the brass reached the cv face it would all lock up. Turn it counter clockwise and it would try to turn off, like a screw effect.

I have had 6 durago hubs in front of me. Using the same aftermarket CV, some will fit, some will not. (when i say fit, the hub will slide all the way on the CV, some bind up when the needle bearing reaches the raised surface it rides on)

I went through the same trials and tribulations converting my 2nd gen to manual hubs. The durago hub would fit my passenger side but the driver side wasn't right, it was very tight upon assembly. Found out the durago hubs have slightly varying measurements on the ID bore size where the needle bearing sits. I have removed the brass piece, replaced the needle bearing and had the same results ( I thought it was a faulty needle bearing at first). Same outer cv sitting in front of me, 6 different durago hubs, 3 fit, 3 didn't. You can see me go back and forth in the 2nd gen for sale page under the manual locking hub conversion. Its VERY hard to explain the situation without seeing it in person.

Hope this helps anyone in the future with the durago hubs not fitting properly. I'd advise OEM.

 

Thought I was in the clear because I was checking my ABS port every 3-4 months for shavings. Boy was I wrong. Now I'm getting shavings on the other side of the hub under the locking hub.

Last time I replaced the passenger side hub with an OEM Toyota unit, new bearings on both sides, and a brand new spindle (since I discovered a machine shop ruined my passenger spindle). I assisted with the install of the new hubs and bearings at a friend's machine shop and my driver side has been fine. The only reason I replaced it's wheel bearing last time was to inspect the spindle for damage like the passenger side had.

I guess I'll need to consider replacing the following parts to try and remedy this.
Toyota Hub Body
Aisin FH-019 Locking Hub
Wheel Bearing
Possibly the CV axle...



Example of what it should look like before it got worn away like above.

 

Checked the passenger side locking hub. It had some play but not a real noticeable difference from the driver side. So I pulled out another

$124 FHT-019 4WD Free Wheel (Locking) Hub - Compatible with Select Toyota Tacoma

FHT-019 locking hub and found it to have a bit less play than both of mine. It also looks different from the two that were on my truck. But according to this thread it's not an issue and I was just running the older style on my truck.




This thread seems to be the most likely culprit. I did keep the same CVs on each side after I re-booted them.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-for-replacement.704203/page-2#post-25002816

 

That is what happened with mine, it was due to the durago wheel hub ID being out of tolerance and slightly too small. It would try to pull the cv shaft in and out since the bearing was being pinched. I bought a few extra durago hubs and used one that didnt have any fitment issues, had no problems after that.

 

I'm not trying to be a dummy downer, but have you thought of just deleting your ABS?

 

My issue is the passenger side has issues with the inner brass bushing hitting the CV earlier in this thread. So I replaced the DuraGo hub with a Toyota one. Now I’m hitting the outer brass bushing against the spacer/c clip. So I guess the next thing that’s suspect is the CV axle.

 

As of right now I haven’t narrowed down my issues to ABS. Plus any manual hub spindles I have on hand need to be rebuilt anyway so it’s more work to delete ABS.

If I did I’d want to remove it completely. Not just pull the dash bulb.

 

I was going to consider replacing just the inner hub bearing and inner brass bushing. But then I realized that removing the inner hub bearing would be difficult without a specialized small slide hammer bearing removal tool. I'm not sure I want to spend the time determining what tool will fit. Either way a decent slide hammer puller would be $60+ for the tool + $45 for the bushing + $20 for the bearing. Throw shipping and my time involved and it doesn't make sense. I'll get another Toyota hub assembly...

Already have my CV axle replacement. It's an OEM axle that I'll re-boot and do the boot slide mod on. I have a new outer seal already in the parts bin.

 

A little late to the party, but I replaced the inner hub bearing on mine using a die grinder with a small carbide tip to cut the bearing away. Still $65 for the parts you need but a little better than $125

 

So I drained the diff and ripped that CV out. And honestly after taking a set of calipers to it and comparing I really don't see anything deformed that could've caused this. I also checked the bearing for play inside the diff tube. It seemed comparable to another higher mileage diff I had sitting on the shelf. I've seriously considered replacing the front diff, putting on a newer set of manual hubs I already have, replacing the CV, and pressing in a new hub and wheel bearing. Maybe this time it was just a poor press job again. Hard to say.

The top diff is an open 4.10. Bottom is a limited slip 4.56 that's freshly rebuilt. But my truck isn't setup to run that gear ratio. It's diff tube bearing has zero play. I'm doubtful that has anything to do with this though.

Ignore the missing dust shield/seal on the OEM CV I sourced. Bottom is an OEM reman through CVJ axle that came off the truck.

 

Having similar issues as you, have you happened to notice if you spin the hub towards the front of the truck it pulls the CV closer to the hub, if spinning the hub towards the back of the truck does the reverse? Almost like its threaded inside the hub. When its pulled all the way in it doesnt seem to contact the brass inner bushing, but it does increase the resistance to turn the hub noticeably (I'd assume from the inners seals rubbing together)

 

@Russianman92 was saying the same thing. I have that part of the truck disassembled now but I'll stick the CV back in and see what it does spinning it. I'm just trying to understand why last time with the DuraGo hub my inner brass bushing was obliterated. This time with an OEM hub my outer brass bushing is destroyed.

 

Yeah thats very interesting and confusing lol. I had slight bushing wear on both outer bushings, but the inner bushings is what was completely destroyed on mine. Im wondering if mine isnt an issue with the needle bearing inside the hub

 

Update: I realized when cleaning everything up to press the hub out that I had a DuraGo aftermarket hub pressed into the passenger spindle. The plan back in January 2020 was to install a Toyota hub in the passenger side since it was having issues, then retain the intact DuraGo hub on the driver side. This obviously got switched around because the Toyota hub is definitely installed on the driver side.

It seems the DuraGo hub is partially to blame but I also determined after pressing a new Toyota hub and bearing and installing the spindle again that I was getting a binding issue when turning the CV axle in reverse. This behavior wasn't there when I swapped in a factory Toyota CV axle in place of the CVJ axle. Can't really explain it because visually I don't see any difference.

I'll have a new OEM wheel bearing, hub, and CV axle installed on the passenger side when this is done. If I run into issues again I'll take it as a sign to rebuild the front diff and get a Harrop installed or something.

 

any update on this? I replaced the bad bearing on my driver side with OEM and still ended up with brass shavings after making sure everything clearanced properly.

I noticed my CV is a very very tight fit inside of the hub. Driver side bearing just went out again, haven't had a single issue on the passenger side (knock on wood).

Plan is to go with OEM CV, hub, and bearing on the driver side just to get my truck back up and driving and replace the passenger side later. Hoping you haven't had any issues with the OEM parts.

 

Installed an OEM wheel bearing, hub, and I rebuilt an OEM CV for the passenger side. Pressed everything myself on a harbor freight press. New bearing went in with an old bearing + square plate on top as a makeshift press sleeve. Supported the bearing race when the hub went in with a press sleeve out of those eBay kits. Rather than blind faith on machine shops. But I'm really hoping the DuraGo aftermarket hub was the culprit this time. The first time was likely a combination of both.





Took the truck out for about 100 miles of 4WD use today. Nothing crazy but I took it up to 40-50mph in 4Hi and crawled up some stuff. Sort of hate off-roading this truck now since my 99 is much more capable with the manual trans and flatbed. I'll check for issues again after a future camping trip when the 4WD components have more than a few 100 miles on them. I'll probably set the truck on fire if I run into any more brass shavings though.