Over $1900 in maintenance at 35k miles??

No Sir

 

Ive seen where the service writer would say “ your battery only checked out at 60% and should be replaced” “ winter is coming and you don’t want to be stranded” that will cost $350.
Typically… this was told ONLY to the Female customers. I was glad to see many declined.

Ive worked flat rate as a mechanic and would say the probability this was done by the service writer as part of their incentive training.

As others state, find a trusted local shop and or learn how to do the work yourself.

 

Replace ATF and differential fluids at 50K. Power steering fluid is easy to do with the turkey baster. Do it at 50K-ish. Difference between new and old power steering fluid was most noticeable at low temps.
Replace brake fluid at 80K. I've lost a vacuum booster due to corrosion from old brake fluid, so I change it at 80K and then at 160K, use top of the line Bosch fluid.

 

To be fair, they didn't say the pads were unusable. They just said the outer ones were wearing faster than the inner ones.

But I'd definitely seek a second opinion.

 

Back in the day when I raced mx for an area yamaha dealer, they pushed a bg additive for anything with wheels. BG has decent products, but it was crazy how many bikes they serviced with some sort of bg product in it.

 

It's like the pool store. I have my own test kit that I paid quite a bit of money for. Every now and then, I'll take a sample up to the pool store for the heck of it. Every single time they tell me I need $100+ worth of chemicals to correct some sort of imbalance.

 

It's like going to the Psychiatrist. I have my own grain-based or potato-based coping mechanisms, but when I show up they wanna sell me $100 worth of chemicals to correct some sort of "imbalance".

 

You spelled $1000 wrong.

 

No dis to OP for changing subject, but what is BG? Been doing auto/truck/MC work for a loooong time and I've never heard of it.

 

You just need to find a better (more honest) shop,,, the truck is fine. There is a decent upfront cost for proper maintenance,,, none of which the stuff you listed is.
This quote is so far off base, I am questioning if there is even a point in discussing with them.

 

Tell them you don't appreciate being taken advantage of and to have your truck ready for pick up as you will be taking your business elsewhere. I hate scum bag dealers. Also, side note OP brake jobs are super easy on these trucks I would do it yourself if you feel comfortable and have the time to do it.

 

I was in the business for 30 years. This is a common practice of offering "Fluid Exchange" services at dealerships and independent shops. I would start with the owners manual, and then adjust accordingly based on your own driving habits. For example if you do a lot of towing, perhaps a transmission service before the owners manual recommends would be appropriate. What they are offering sounds quite excessive. Try and find a good reputable independent shop. I would go to the dealership and have them show you the brake pads. I also always ask for the dealership to return my old parts within reason so I can inspect them.

 

That's the way I do it. I haven't spent $1900 total in maintenance on my nearly 17 year old truck with 238,000 miles on it.

 

Did they mention the timing cover leak or rear coolant pipe,of course that's under warranty.

 

Dealership rates are high I agree.

I will also say that keeping fluids fresh/in good condition can help make the components they are used in last longer.

I have always been on board with changing brake fluid, p.s. fluid etc. Just do it yourself or find a trusted shop so you dont pay as much.

The pads weren't unsafe, just wearing uneven. If the calipers/pads cant slide back to center easily this will happen so I would be cleaning and addressing that

 

Ahhhhhhhhhh the old dealer digital finger exam. Are you mechanically inclined ? Pop off the front wheels and take a peek at the pads. If indeed they are wearing noticeably different from each other. Get some brake cleaner and some silicone brake pin grease and disassemble clean and re-grease the caliper pins. Basically a 6 of Heineken job. Fug Da Dealer

 

I have a totally awesome wrencher I bring my truck too. Last year I went though that stuff with my dealer when they were doing a small warranty thing for me. Told my mechanic, he chuckled and I politely called them back and declined. Turns out I didn't need even 1/3 of what they said..............They much be trained to say this shit.

 

LMAO. What a ripoff!

 

Simple answer: Your truck doesn't really need anything at 35,000 miles except maybe an oil and filter change. If they mess with anything else: like the brake fluid flush (!), the power steering flush(!) MAS (!!!!???) the chances are high that they'll introduce new problems it didn't have when it went in. As for the brakes: take it to another place for a second opinion and never go back there. They'll be out of business soon anyway.

I might do the diffs if I was running the Baja or Rubicon while towing a huge boat at high speed up a hill.... but I doubt it.... and definitely not at that place.