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Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by misc, Nov 9, 2008.

  1. Sep 29, 2010 at 2:47 PM
    #621
    highside7r

    highside7r Member

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    Blank canvas but ready, stock for not much longer...
    Thanks, first issue I noticed on my new truck, off to make this easy fix!
    Great job on the DIY sticky's!
     
  2. Sep 30, 2010 at 1:21 PM
    #622
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically correct.

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    Outstanding post... mine failed last month, I followed these instructions and it's good as new. It actually took me longer to properly replace the little clips that popped off during the disassemble than it did to actually solder the board.

    Note: if your console wants to sag away from the headliner when you press it back into place, simply open each clip with a pair of needle nose pliers, place the clip over the plastic pillion and then roll the clips' center retention tab, (the small one located inside the clip body) back snugly against the pillion itself.

    This keeps the clip at its intended location, seated low on the the pillion and restores the factory tension of the console to keep it firmly against the headliner.

    Good stuff OP! My wallet thanks you! :)
     
  3. Sep 30, 2010 at 7:43 PM
    #623
    Bluewater

    Bluewater Big Bruddah

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    I tried to do it and must have fuc*&^ it up.. Temp came up along with direction and started flashing slowly then the display went black again.. WTF!!! So pissed!! Should I try resoldering?? Or just say screw it?? Anyone??
     
  4. Oct 2, 2010 at 11:19 AM
    #624
    cdcalpoly

    cdcalpoly New Member

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    Place some solder flux on the pads then try to solder down. If you have a multimeter, you can check for proper connection. Also heat up the pad and not the resistor, and let the solder melt onto the pad then the resistor.
     
  5. Oct 2, 2010 at 9:10 PM
    #625
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Thank you all you guys that have posted in this thread. I finally got to use this information today. Mine had been acting up for about six months, had it apart once and couldn't see anything wrong with the resistors. Finally quit completely and the broken solder joint was obvious this time. Soldered both 510s to be sure. Works great! Thanks again for the help.;)
     
  6. Oct 3, 2010 at 6:52 AM
    #626
    MadeInMaine

    MadeInMaine MadeInMaine

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    just fixed mine the other day....

    thanks for the write up
     
  7. Oct 3, 2010 at 7:44 AM
    #627
    IslandBoy71

    IslandBoy71 Well-Known Member

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    Great write up! did mine in less than 10 minutes,
     
  8. Oct 3, 2010 at 9:09 AM
    #628
    Przemekmsu

    Przemekmsu Well-Known Member

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    Okay so I followed the write up from the link above and I got nothing. Basically everything is together. What I did noticed was a black burned looking spot in the bottom right corner of the display. (Pictures included). Do you guys think that this is the problem????????
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Oct 3, 2010 at 10:03 AM
    #629
    jns

    jns New Member

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    Did you solder the two ends of both 510's
    I dont' know about the black spot.
     
  10. Oct 3, 2010 at 10:31 AM
    #630
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    I, like others, had the same burn mark. I don't know what that's all about.
    I soldered both ends of both 510 resistors and I am back in business. YMMV.
     
  11. Oct 3, 2010 at 10:38 AM
    #631
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    I repair appliances. I've seen those black spots on microwave oven displays. I doubt that's your problem, check those 510 resistors really close. I took mine apart the first time and saw nothing wrong. Six months later the problem went from intermittent to completely dead. The resistor solder joint was obviously cracked at that point.
     
  12. Oct 3, 2010 at 6:26 PM
    #632
    MadTaco

    MadTaco Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the hint. When mine fails I'll know what to do. You guys rock!
     
  13. Oct 4, 2010 at 3:45 AM
    #633
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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  14. Oct 4, 2010 at 8:20 AM
    #634
    netboy27

    netboy27 Well-Known Member

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    Yo -

    After Toyota told me $200 for the whole thing, I found this link and was excited to be able to fix it cheap. I opened up my display and found one of my 501's WAS NOT THERE! It's undoubtably rattling around in my chassis somewhere.

    I found mutiple sites that talk about sending away for repair, including ebay. One of them (yes, I can't remember which) said use either a 51 ohm or 47 ohm resistor.

    Off the radio shack I went, spent $1.06 on 5 resistors, and poof, I'm in bidness...!
     
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  15. Oct 4, 2010 at 8:22 AM
    #635
    netboy27

    netboy27 Well-Known Member

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  16. Oct 4, 2010 at 8:24 AM
    #636
    netboy27

    netboy27 Well-Known Member

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    Oh yea, this guy says the black spot is normal
    http://www.siliconmethod.com/
     
  17. Oct 4, 2010 at 10:19 AM
    #637
    2k6750

    2k6750 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like I'll be doing this on mine tonight. Driving to work today and the overhead display isnt working. I tapped on it and it came back on, but went away about 5 min later. I've got 70k and 5 years on my truck. Do I win for longest lasting?
     
  18. Oct 5, 2010 at 12:35 PM
    #638
    PzTank

    PzTank Stuck in the Well

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    Add me to the list of successes. One of my 510's was bent about 45 degrees and snapped when I bent it back. Patience when attempting to solder a loose resistor.... Thanks.
     
  19. Oct 6, 2010 at 1:26 PM
    #639
    netboy27

    netboy27 Well-Known Member

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    I don't know about that ;).

    My truck is a 2006, but has 128,000 on it. I think I have you beat if you consider "ON" time!:D
     
  20. Oct 6, 2010 at 1:44 PM
    #640
    kryten

    kryten Well-Known Member

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    Another success. I did the fix last week. As usual one of the resistors did not have contact, so I resoldered them all just in case. Dealership quoted me $60 for diagnosing the problem and then if the part was faulty around $250 for labour, and $800+ for the new part itself. Of course out of warranty. No thanks. All it took was 20 minutes and did not cost me a single dollar. Thanks again TW.
     

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