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Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by misc, Nov 9, 2008.

  1. Sep 9, 2013 at 3:42 AM
    #1501
    robssol

    robssol If it ain't broke, leave it the eff alone!

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    Frame 2.0, Fog lights anytime, Seatbelt reminder delete, Secondary air filter delete, LED bed lights, Running boards, 2017 Rims, Devil Horns by Andres, Ultra gauge, Cup holder/consol/glove compartment lights, Interior LED conversion, Blue Sea aux. fuse panel, fuse panel mounting plate by Yotamac, ProEFX heated towing mirrors, LED engine bay lights, Redline Quicklift Elite hood struts, Wet Okole Heated Seat Covers, Pop and Lock tailgate theft deterrent mod 2.0, Plasti-dip rear bumper. Decal free visors, Washable cabin air filter, Overhead consol auto dimming override switch, BulletProof Fabricating Skid plate, 2lo module.
    Thanks misc. Saved me a bundle! Well, if the dealer told me $800-$1000 to fix it, I would have told them were to stick it:eek:
     
  2. Sep 15, 2013 at 3:36 PM
    #1502
    othater

    othater Well-Known Member

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    I just re-soldered mine a second time.
    It lasted around two years+.
    Still a quick re-fix.
    Thanks again to the original poster.
     
  3. Sep 16, 2013 at 6:45 PM
    #1503
    Siliconmethod

    Siliconmethod Well-Known Member

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    MO
    For those interested, I wrote up a short blog post on controlling the automatic dimmer function in the Tacoma overhead display: http://www.siliconmethod.com/controlling-dimmer-toyota-overhead-display/

    A client wanted to stop the truck from auto-dimming the display when his headlights were on; I set him up with a wiring harness and it works great. If anyone is interested, go to my site and contact me via email and I will send details or write up a how-to. It is very easy...snip one wire and install a switch.

    -greg
     
  4. Sep 18, 2013 at 12:54 PM
    #1504
    Bodhi

    Bodhi New Member

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    Thx to this forum I just fixed this!!! Man I'm pumped, awesome work here guys thx again
     
  5. Sep 19, 2013 at 3:45 PM
    #1505
    brightshizzle

    brightshizzle Well-Known Member

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    New member here, excited about this fix! can't wait to give this a try although I can't see the pics from the op.
     
  6. Sep 19, 2013 at 7:21 PM
    #1506
    samuelprz

    samuelprz Well-Known Member

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    NoR CaL Modesto / Fresno
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    New 2006 Taco (red) 8112 Front Bilstein Shocks Maxtrac Spindles Fox2.0 With Resis Rear All Pro Expo Leafpack RRW 18 Wheels w/ Toyo RT 33x12.50r18 LED Headlights Pioneer AVH 4201NEX Hybrid Audio Unity and Mirus ARC Audio 300.4 RIP 2006 Taco (silver)... you will be missed Eibach Coils Bilstein 5100s front Maxtrac Spindles SpiderTrax Wheel Spacers Bilstein 5100s rear*extended All Pro Expo Leafpack 6,000k HID's (Headlights and Fogs)
    Thanks for the Fix worked flawlessly, both of the 51O resistors were disconnected.
     
  7. Sep 19, 2013 at 9:17 PM
    #1507
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Central Coast, CA
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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    .
    I just snipped the dimming wire on both my compass/temp unit, and the clock/airbag status display. It would have been enough of a pain to install switches that I decided to skip that step. So far, seems okay. A little bright at night, but I've never been one to dim my dash lighting anyway. Plus, the aftermarket stereo, Sirius radio, and my Scanguage add plenty of light in that area. I can always add the switch later. Looking forward to running my headlights in the daytime and still being able to read the outside temp and clock.
     
  8. Sep 26, 2013 at 6:54 AM
    #1508
    eye one

    eye one Well-Known Member

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    o
    Same here. However mine has been out for a few years now and didn't think much of it. Came across this thread and decided to check it out.

    Sure enough that resistor was off on one end, soldered it back and reinforced the other side and other 510 resistor. I clipped it into the wiring harness and nothing. I pressed the resistor down, nothing, checked all other contacts on the board and couldn't see anything out of the norm.

    Oh well. Put it back together and then noticed (remembered) the button to turn off/on and change C/F and PRESTO!

    Unbelievable, thanks again! Now I just need to find a way to get the PRD432 light strip to light back up.
     
  9. Sep 26, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #1509
    Flugelhornjazz

    Flugelhornjazz '06 4.0L 4x4 6-sp MT Access

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    Yea, I think I mentioned in my post awhile ago that many of the sub-assemblies are outsourced, the compass/temp circuit board being one of them. It takes much longer to get the board out of the housing than it does to resolder both 510 ohm resistors! Well worth the time. The dealer wants hundreds of dollars to swap out another outsourced assembly that may or may not have the same issue. I fixed my '06 Access five years ago and it's still working perfectly. :cool:
     
  10. Sep 26, 2013 at 9:32 AM
    #1510
    Techoma

    Techoma This is the Wild, Wild, West!

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    Mine has been out for over a year. Before it went out, I could tap it... then I had to smack it... then punch it, to get it to work! :eek:

    I FINALLY opened it up an hour or so ago. The lower 510 was completely off and the upper (near display (right side was disconnected.

    I re-soldered both... looks like a descent job (I can solder) but no go. Pressed don on them... still no go. I also have the burnt LCD.

    Anyone know what the test points are for resistance or voltage? Before I turn it into an overhead switch console... I want to make sure it's not fixable.

    In the pics.. the flash makes it appear to be working... not so.

    OH Console.jpg
     
  11. Sep 26, 2013 at 9:42 AM
    #1511
    ruggedT

    ruggedT The Sticker Guy

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    Diesel on 35's
    Damn your LCD looks like mine. Last solder job lasted a day and it was out again. Pretty sure she's burnt up :mad:

    I have a few of these style things laying around from an old job. Been pondering about breaking it out of the case and mounting it inside. Wont have the compass though. Switch panel up there would be nice

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2013
  12. Sep 26, 2013 at 10:33 AM
    #1512
    Techoma

    Techoma This is the Wild, Wild, West!

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    That's a pretty good idea Stan. I just finished putting the thing back in. I hit the F\C switch accidentally... I guess it's an on off switch too! It works!!!! Being a tech doesn't always cover the simple stuff like TURN IT ON!!!!!

    I'ma happy camper now!

    Now, not to thread jack... but can you do a couple replacement letters for my tailgate? Do you keep a record of font and size?
     
  13. Sep 26, 2013 at 11:48 AM
    #1513
    ruggedT

    ruggedT The Sticker Guy

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    I got the emails. Lets chat there
     
  14. Sep 26, 2013 at 2:13 PM
    #1514
    eye one

    eye one Well-Known Member

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    Haha same exact thing happened with me earlier today. On/Off duh. Been so long since I used it forgot it turned it on too. On a side note my LCD looks EXACTLY like yours and when it wasn't coming on I thought that was the reason why.
     
  15. Sep 26, 2013 at 5:18 PM
    #1515
    Techoma

    Techoma This is the Wild, Wild, West!

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    I felt dumb.... but very relieved!!!!
     
  16. Sep 30, 2013 at 2:21 PM
    #1516
    rcanez

    rcanez New Member

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    thanks, i already fixed my temp-compass monitor, it was easy!!!
     
  17. Oct 2, 2013 at 3:58 PM
    #1517
    Siliconmethod

    Siliconmethod Well-Known Member

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    Hi All,

    That 'burnt' part of the display is normal. A VFD (vacuum fluorescent display) is gas evacuated, then oxidized in that corner to remove oxygen. Normal and expected. If it turns white, that's when you have to worry.

    If you soldered your resistors and the display doesn't work, one of two things happened, in order of likelihood:

    1.) you have cold solder joints. You may be able to solder, but the resistors are heavily oxidized and resist solder flow. You have to install new components. Go to radio shack and get a couple 1/4 watt 47 ohm axial resistors and try it again. See my DIY guide below...

    2.) you solder bridged from the top 51 ohm resistor to the thru-board copper trace, and shorted out the board. This is a board-destroying event. So take your time and make sure the joints are clean before powering it back on.

    Good luck...
    Greg

    DIY guide to Toyota Tacoma compass repairs
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  18. Oct 4, 2013 at 12:35 PM
    #1518
    randyjaco

    randyjaco Active Member

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    Thanks for the tip
    For those of you who are "Magic Smoke" electricians, This is a very easy fix. You don't have to pull out the resistor chart to find the 510 resistor. It says 510 right on it. Couldn't be simpler.

    Randy


     
  19. Oct 4, 2013 at 8:39 PM
    #1519
    Techoma

    Techoma This is the Wild, Wild, West!

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    ... and it's real common for one or both to be just bouncing around loose!!!
     
  20. Oct 5, 2013 at 5:58 AM
    #1520
    Siliconmethod

    Siliconmethod Well-Known Member

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    @randyjaco,

    Yes the two main problem resistors are '510' labeled, but that does not mean 510 ohm. The '0' is the multiplier, which in this case means 51 ohm. (yes, I know that multiplying 51 x 0 = 0, just trust me on this. The real explanation should be 'how many zeros do I add to the end of the number...in this case zero zeros.)

    Because the resistors are in parallel, the math works out to a total of 25.5 ohms across this portion of the circuit.

    -greg

    Tacoma and Ford overhead compass repairs
     

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