OZBoost turbo group buy 2TR-FE and 3RZ

That's how its done on the 3rz.

Ran mine at ~5 psi with the stock injectors and the FPR boost referenced.

 

Could you elaborate on this?

 

I have an aftermarket 1:1 rising fuel pressure regulator. Mine has larger fuel inlets and outlet. As well as a larger diaphragm.

The same principle applies to the stock FPR. Route the a vacuum hose to it from the intake manifold, for a vacuum boost reference. Then under boost, it will raise the fuel pressure in a 1:1 ratio with the boost. So each psi of boost will raise the fuel pressure by the same amount. Increasing fuel flow through the injectors.

 

Ah I see. That's clever! Cool that you can mod the stock piece. How would a boosted intake manifold handle the PCV system. I currently have an oil catch can in that system. Would I just add a breather to the can and plug the inlet in the intake manifold?

 

I think a lot of turbo engines are about 8 to 9 PSI : 1... BRZ compression ratio is 12.5 to 1, and they are doing force induction on those engines... reliability is another question. So if the Tacos are in the low 10s...my guess it that it shouldn't be a problem for 5 PSI. I'm no force induction expert...but just little I know...it wouldn't bug me to do low boost.

 

I separated my PCV system from the intake. Then added a breather to the catch can. Otherwise it would have allowed boost pressure into the crank case and caused all sorts of leaks. Been there.

 

can we bring this group buy back?

 

I fitted the ozboost kit to my 2012 Hilux 2wd 2tr stock was 116hp modded was 195hp,afr was way too lean on the stock ecu it did however recognise the extra airflow and dropped to 10:1 but it took 10 seconds under boost for this to happen.
Turbo is a generic chinese turbo so wont last forever,i've since fitted intercooler,627cc injectors and walbro 255 pump and octane max piggyback ecu, why i'm here is under load the injectors are staying open flooding the motor,it's definately something in the stock ecu causing this but no idea what,any tuners out there can give me ideas?? I'm aiming for 300rwhp.

 

Before swappign to the larger injectors, did it idle fine with just the turbo installed? As the needle on the boost gauge neared zero, was the increase in load and rpm smooth, or did it stumble and get extra rich?

What I am elluding to is if your vacuum hoses are routed causing a vacuum leak or not. Just trying to start with the basics first.

Next, if you have a vacuum hose routed to the FPR, and that vacuum hose originates post turbo charge pipe, then it will be adding pressure to the FPR and increasing the fuel pressure.

Next, your injectors are fairly large, but assuming that you've done your math, they are sized for the power you are looking for. Which then makes me feel that the aftermarket piggy back isn't able to pull enough voltage out of those injectors. Or the dwell time is too long.

Unfortunately, I am not familiar with that piggy back.

If you could take some pictures of your engine bay, so that I can see all of the vacuum hoses routings.

 

The fpr is rooted to the turbo and i have tried adjusting pressures,i calculated i needed 700cc injectors for 300hp but they are a different style of injector and hard to find,i originally grinded the screen of the original injectors which gave me plenty of fuel but apparantly they need a twin spray pattern so i got the 627's from ecu hardware and made no difference,i currently have the loop plugs in so it's running on stock ecu,it runs fine slightly rough idle but not fluctuating,i am pretty convinced it is something to do with maf but i've tried disconnecting maf and o2 sensors but still the same,with a noid light wired in to the injectors when it happens the light stays on until you back off throttle,it is definately electrical,i noticed in another thread they had the maf fitted after the turbo was going to try that next.

Sht sorry about the multiple images,got trigger happy

 

By the looks of it, you have upgraded some components over what the kit might have come with. Samco silicone hoses, T-bolt clamps, ottiker clamps....

Now, some observations. The 90° bend directly before the MAF sensor is going to cause a strong turbulence. A screen just in front of the Maf would help, but having a smoother bend or it somewhere further away from that bend would be better. Most beneficial would be the afore mentioned, with some form of flow straightener.

Next, I see the FPR and that it is vacuum and boost referenced. What is your fuel pressure set to, and did you set the static fuel pressure without a vacuum hose attached to the FPR? Pretty sure that it is 43.5 psi OEM pressure.

Let's focus on that, then we can get into the injectors.

 

@Lucario Runner

 

Fuel pressure is at 45psi,I have tried 35,55,65 no difference, the maf position is the ozboost mod from the original kit,I definitely have been concerned about maf position but I don't know enough about repositioning it after the turbo,I will try it but just concerned as it still did this with maf clamped and disconnected

 

Alright. I am combing through you pictures and am curious of a few things. When I get back to a computer I can edit one of them and then ask a question.

For the time being, I have just these two questions. If you swapped back to stock injectors, will it run fine or will it still have an over rich issue?

Are your current injectors high impedance or low impedance? (627's correct?)

 

i tried a set of stock injectors from another car and the problem wasn't there anymore,don't know about resistance,the new ones are bosch the stock are denso but it still had this problem with the original injectors modded so i don't think resistance is the problem,hopefully i can get it back on the dyno this week and try unplugging sensors one by one

 

With what you stated, that means that the modded ones had a improper spray pattern.

The OEM injectors are high impedance. That is what any other injectors must be as well. Being that you are using such a large injector over stock, as long as they are not modded and are of a good quality, then they should have a fine atomizing spray. That would then lead me to believe that they are just flowing to much fuel at low RPM. That is how my injectors from RC Engineering were. I had to dial back the voltage on them, through tuning, in the idle and cruising segments of the table.

 

In this image. Cropped from yours, where is the hose going, which has tbe worm gear clamp on it? Is it a vacuum hose or a coolant hose?

 

At the back of the valve cover, I see a vacuum hose coming off of it and routing to the driver side of the engine bay. Where is the other end attached? Due to there being a breather on the top of the valve cover, and not knowing where that rear hose is going, or even another vacuum hose, you could quite possibly have a huge vacuum leak. So please detail exactly where these hoses in question are terminating.

Also, I followed where one hose comes off of the intake manifold and routes to the brake booster. Definitely add in a check valve, so as not to pressurize the brake booster.

 

The first hose is the fuel line going into the rail,the second hose is pcv and goes to the manifold ,there is definitely no vacuum leaks,I will try and see what I can do with the injector voltages,also I went through the ecu wiring and there are quite a few optional wires that weren't originally hooked up,I will have to get a wiring diagram off moranbah weather and find out where to wire them in,we also have a flash unit at work now so we can tune ecu,s without a piggyback, will be handy to get rid of that o2 sensor code that keeps coming up. Will let you know how I go with the wiring and I think I'll reposition that maf