P011B Code with aftermarket Cartridge Block Heater

I recently installed a dry cartridge block heater from Kats that installs in a left rear void (not a wet freeze plug install) before the start of winter in here in South Central AK, which gets cold but not true "Alaska" cold. We've had an extended stretch of sub zero nights but nothing insane.

I've been plugging the Taco (17 SR5 DCSB) in at night and had no problems....until a few days ago. Unplugged the chariot, cranked it up, and was greeted by a CEL and TRAC OFF. Code reader said P011B (Coolant / Air Temperature Correlation)

How can I use the block heater without putting the ECU into hissy fit mode? It seems to be at odds with common sense.

 

While I dont have a block heater (florida) i looked into this to try to help previously.

Never figured out a solution. Couple of links discussing it...


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/for-those-of-you-with-block-heaters.593024/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/block-heater.591203/page-2#post-21872900

 

Thanks! I knew I'd seen that thread but couldn't find it...I'm a dumbass. I searched P011B but not Engine Block Heater.. I'm going to hook my stuff up to a timer and see if that makes a difference. The day my CEL light popped it had been plugged in for a whole day. If it fixes it, I'll let the main thread know.

 

4 cylinders have that issue with regards to which port that it is installed on. The older trucks had a TSB to advise installing in the "easy" first frost plug and I believe there was a ECU update.

I haven't seen it installed on the wrong port, nor have I seen that code since the <2015 models.

The V6 4runners got an update to address it, but I've only ever updated one model.

There is currently no fix right now, it's just going to be annoying unfortunately.

 

Good luck
There is 2 trip confirmation before it throws code I believe.
Based on the fault enable tables in the manual, I THEORIZED that if you turn the ignition ON (for more than 20 secs before starting) it may disable the fault detection, but @Fye123 said it didnt.

You still may try it.
If this were to work, would have to use this process to start every time the truck is started and it has been sitting cold.

On smart key vehicles, put ignition to ON without starting. Hit button twice without pushing brake pedal to give Ignition ON.

On manually keyed vehicles, just turn it ignition to ON and not to start.

In both cases, leave ignition ON for 20 seconds before starting.

 

So.....after using the timer set for 2 hours before departure time - no CEL. This was during some pretty nippy mornings - minus 10 to minus 15 (cold by Anchorage standards) and some regular chilly days of single digit wintery goodness.

I'll keep this wildly unscientific experiment going but so far, so good.