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P0301 Code

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Albinator, Mar 7, 2018.

  1. Mar 21, 2018 at 7:55 AM
    #41
    Albinator

    Albinator [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that’s what I heard which is why I’m looking at these 05’s. I’m just finding different info for mpg with it: it’s either 13 city 17 highway, 15 and 18 or more
     
  2. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:02 AM
    #42
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    from what I recall it's 14/17 and the Tacoma got moved down to 15/18 (originally 16/19). I would honestly consider the Tundra if my Tacoma became inoperable, same gas mileage and better towing. also slightly larger than 2nd Gen Tacoma (not by much)
     
    Chipskip likes this.
  3. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:12 AM
    #43
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    I think you are better off spending $2k on your current 'old' truck than spending $15k on a different 'old' truck.
     
  4. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:32 AM
    #44
    Albinator

    Albinator [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My worry about that is it could be 2k but then become 4-5K+ if they find other issues while taking things apart. I think I’d rather spend 10-15K on a truck that can tow that is older with less miles like these than spend the same amount for a newer truck with much more miles.
     
  5. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:40 AM
    #45
    Chipskip

    Chipskip N7MCS

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    I have to agree that you are thinking soundly, I would do the same thing in if I were in your shoes (knocking on wood). If I were in your shoes I would look at it as an engine replacement (why take the chance) or a different vehicle. Also sounds like you weren't looking to trade your vehicle, but now that you are faced with this option it gives you a good reason.

    Have you looked into what you can get for your truck? Parting out? Selling? Scrap yard? That also factors into the cost, if an engine swap is $4k, or you can get $4 for it then you are only out $8-10k for a different vehicle, but didn't spend the $4k.... then the newer vehicle is really only $4-6k out of pocket above repairing. Can you fallow my math?
     
  6. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:46 AM
    #46
    Albinator

    Albinator [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Are you saying the newer vehicle like the Tundras or Tacoma’s I linked? I would love to trade it in, but with a code like it has and it being a salvaged title I wouldn’t get much on trade but hope for selling it for at least 3K. The math I follow is if I get the $12.5K Tundra and get 3K out of my truck, then I’d be really only spending 9.5K for it. I’d try for negotiation though.
     
    Chipskip[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:48 AM
    #47
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    CBI bed rack and sliders, Backwoods Adventure Mods front and rear bumpers, etc. And some stickers.
    On those Tundras, make sure they had the timing belt and water pump replaced. I just had it done on our 4.7 4Runner, it's around $1K, due at 90K miles. That green one is just under 90K and may not have had it done yet -- the cost may be what drove the owner to sell or trade it. Those all look decent, the $7K one has me wondering, though. Gold one would be near the top of my list, but that is also a clean Tacoma. I would look at the gold one and the $7K one, but the one being sold by the owner may actually be the best one.
     
  8. Mar 21, 2018 at 9:48 AM
    #48
    Albinator

    Albinator [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I'm honestly between the Gold Tundra and the Tacoma...the towing capacity and the extra seat is a nice feature for the Tundra but I'm not sure which would be better longevity wise. Really depends on if I want to keep towing our camper with our 2006 Honda Pilot without getting the 'recommended' tranny cooler and powersteering cooler or not. Seems that the Tundra pulls more than our Pilot (4500 boat or 3500 anything else).

    How do I know/find if those things have been replaced? This is the CARFAX for that shows a couple accidents and maintenance but I'm not finding anything on those things you mentioned:

    https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=KSN_0&vin=5TBBT44125S459425
     
  9. Mar 21, 2018 at 11:20 AM
    #49
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    I would stay away from that one. No record of timing belt (doesn't mean it wasn't done, but with good service records like that I would expect to see it), two accidents, and a Northeast vehicle (road salt = rust). Probably not worth what they are asking, maybe worth $9,500. I try to stay away from car lots and stick with individuals -- the more I think about it, the more I lean toward the one being sold by the individual.
     
  10. Mar 21, 2018 at 3:30 PM
    #50
    Albinator

    Albinator [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that’s what I was wondering with the service records and two accidents plus the rust which I know these tundras had the same issue as the Tacoma’s from what I’ve found.

    Which one is it that you see is being sold by the individual? A mechanic told me today that if you’re getting a Tundra or a truck built to tow it’s best to get one like that if you’re towing on an on and off/consistent basis and not mainly used for a commuter. Not sure if there are thoughts on that or not.
     
  11. Mar 21, 2018 at 4:10 PM
    #51
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, didn't follow that, he told you to get one like what?

    This is the one that you had the link to: https://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/4519623

    He's got it priced pretty high, but it looks clean and has a topper that you could sell if you don't want it. I've always found it easier to deal with individuals, and I know too many stories of people finding cars on used car lots that eventually have significant issues. Not saying all lots are like that, but if they are giving you what seems like a good deal, there is usually a reason for it. The dealerships will hold on to the really good trade-ins, wholesale off the rest which end up overpriced on note lots with cheesy fixes to whatever ailed them.

    Do your research on what the truck is worth in your area and don't over-pay. Plenty of websites to use, Edmunds, Kelley Blue Book, NADA. The seller has already done that research and knows when you are offering close . . .
     
  12. Mar 21, 2018 at 4:13 PM
    #52
    Albinator

    Albinator [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry. He said it’s best to get a truck if you’re going to use it like a truck and not just using a truck as a commuter. Get a truck if you plan to use it like a truck with towing/hauling a couple of time a month.

    Oh yes that one. The one I was offish about it is because it seems like the 2005-06 is a better engine.
     
  13. Mar 21, 2018 at 6:27 PM
    #53
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I had an '06 DC Tundra, but nothing to tow and mostly commuting, kids were little so not doing many camping trips, my wife making fun of me when trying to park at shopping centers, and no real need for something that size -- put me back in a Tacoma. I like the smaller size and agility. But if I was going to tow, it would be a Tundra.

    I would worry less about the motor (very similar, just VVT added) and more about the transmission, which changed at the same time -- but it kind of depends on your driving conditions. If you are towing and using it in hilly or mountainous areas, it probably doesn't matter. Lots of highway driving, you may want that extra gear for fuel economy.

    What is best for you is really a personal matter and depends on your situation. I value reliability overall and have trust issues. Used car salesmen are the lowest on my trust meter.
     

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