P0302 check engine code confusion.

i had a very similar problem with a 2005 camry, and ultimately found that the clips that connect the ignition to the coil were not holding the connection together properly. In fact I think the mechanic may have broken them when trying to fix. I put a very small amount of epoxy in the connector - just enough to bind but small enough to break with a small screwdriver or knife, and never had that issue again.

no idea if that's what you are dealing with, but it sounded similar so thought I'd post

 

thanks! so far the electrical seems sound. we tested each little wire in both the coil and injector harnesses, all checked out. here's to hoping a cleaning and recalibration of the injectors sorts this out. I'll post an update tomorrow once we get the injectors sorted and put back in.

 

no they're easy to get too. but you can't test the cam/crank sensors. you can test the module, but that needs special equipment to do so. good luck finding anyone with that equipment

 

there IS an actual toyota dealership about 90 minutes away but they have a terrible rep around here for monumental incompetence. hopefully the injectors will be the ticket. if we can't figure it out by monday or tues at the latest we'll have to go with plan B (she flies home and we buy something else for now up there). I just dont' want to risk toasting the truck

 

if one injector was clogged/dirty/damaged and you swapped it to a different cylinder, the problem would follow the injector.

You said you did swap the injector correct? Did you pull the spark plugs and look at them? smell them for unburnt fuel?

 

hey

I've lost all confidence is the original mechanic who wasted my week. he claimed to have swapped injectors. I know he swapped coils since I watched and we put in new plugs. I didn't see the old plugs when they came out. this is the same guy who said the motor wasn't misfiring at all, but both the electrician and the new mechanic I started with yesterday both said that it is missing but only slightly and seemingly only at idle. it's really not stuttering or anything just a slight intermittent vibration at idle and the sound of the exhaust is more a "chug chug chug" than a purr. like I said the new guy squirted some gas into the intake and it smoothed out. not sure if that's valuable info or just another shade tree guy doing whatever he knows to do.

the scantool shows 2 codes. one is 0300 and the other is 0302. the first mechanic insisted that the fist code was irrelevant as the presence of the second one meant that it was only missing on #2. the new mechanic ( who so far I like) said BS and that they both matter. I really dont' know what the truth is on that.

we just pulled the injectors and took them to the guy to clean and calibrate. the new mechanic said the color of the filter side of the injectors was dark and indicated combustion problems.

the new mechanic said that even with the high compression numbers (170-180 on all 4) it could still be a burnt or stuck valve. does that sound correct to you?

 

arhhhhhharhhhrahr!!!!!

cleaning and calibrating the injectors didn't help. the new mechanic did happen to figure out that the last jokers put in incorrect plugs. NGK but he says wrong for this motor. says they are way too caliente. he also says I want plugs with 2 hooks not one.

he also noticed that the #2 coil was cracked along the seam on the outer plastic case. I'm going back to the first mechanic now with a bad attitude and a big stick. fucker.

meanwhile I need to buy 4 new coils (can't just replace one right?) and 4 correct plugs. the new mech says good luck finding denso coils here so I'll see what I can find.

fyi the supposedly wrong NGK plugs say bkr6egp on them.

onward!
cheers

lucas

 

is it ok to replace just one coil? I'm getting conflicting advice about it. it would be a different brand than the existing other 3 as well , prob a lower quality.


I could buy 4 new denso ones once the truck is back in the US but it's about 1000 or so miles.

 

hmm. ok. so. sounds like low idle only issues. and the codes just happen to be what they are.

1)change fuel filter and air filter yet? check vacuum tubes to idle air control valve and pressure regulator. they may be cracked/seeping a bit of air causing poor performance.

2)yes you can change just 1 coil. BUT. you can also change JUST THE BOOTS. that's usually where the problems occur. there's a little spring (see link) that directs the spark from the coil to the plug. that also gets worn and increased resistance.

here's a link for the boot, grommet, and spring from napa.

3)ngk plugs should be BKR5EYA-11. the ones he gave you were single elctrode platinum plugs that run better while colder! NGK plug numbers are reveresed, higher the number, colder the optimal operating temperature. they also have a much higher resistance rating. so if you changed your old plugs for these.

you probably didn't get anywhere since your old used plugs over time wear and increase resistance. the new ones you were given, had just as much, if not more resistance.... lol BKR5EYA-11 should get better spark. hopefully that's all it was.

also. even iridium plugs can do this! they have slightly more resistance than nickel/copper plugs. i put these in my 3.4 truck. runs fine, sometimes it doesn't want to start on the 3rd crank. im assuming that's why, but no codes are being thrown out.

4) the dark portion of your injectors only means there's contaminate passing through/by it. you can get gunk in the intake valves just from stuff like the PCV valve. that happens. it's not from a burnt intake valve.

5)~170 psi is nothing to worry about. it can't mean burnt valves because a burnt/stuck valve won't go above 80psi. if anything, continue using fuel system cleaners and higher octanes.

 

thanks man!

yes changed fuel and air filters when we did the plugs last week. current mechanic said he checked vacuum tubes but I will confirm on monday when we get back into it.

the coil in question seems to be cracked along the side of the plastic outer housing. I will show the link about the boot grommet and spring to him as well.

yeah he said these plugs were way too hot. I'm going to the city on monday I will get correct plugs there. he says I should use denso coils but they can't be had here. I can find Standard brand and something with only chinese writing on the box.

our other two vehicles both have the 3.4l motor, I was going to bring these plugs back when I go yell at the mechanic who put them in, but if they are ok to use in my other tacoma or the runner maybe I should just keep them? I guess they're still goof for fishing weights.

I'm happy to be leaning more though I wish it were on a less compressed time frame.

been raining like mad here all day nothing but mud for miles. wish I had my 4wd taco here now. my sister has a nice 87 4x4 might take it up the mountain tomorrow and see how bad I can get it stuck

 

yeah those plugs are wrong. don't use them in any toyota. other than that i think i've done all I can honestly :\. good luck to you and have a good weekend!

 

you too and thanks again I'll update when I figure it all out.

cheers!

 

if the problem is in the ignition or injection you should be able to move the parts around and the problem will follow.

it seems like you can't take anyone's word that they are in fact moving the parts around.

would the damaged coil happen to be cylinder # 2?

 

update: put in some autolite plugs that seem a fit (as per the autolite site) and replaced the questionable coil with some no name cheap one (all I could get) and just ran the truck about 90 miles on the highway. the cel was reset with the scantool and so far didnt come back on. the motor seemed about the same to me but the mechanic thinks it sounds better.

I ordered new coils (denso) and new plugs (NGK BKR5EYA-11 as recommended here) which I will get when I get back up to LA. I was able to shift work around so now I can drive up with the wife instead of her alone.

thanks again for all the help!

 

keep us posted, don't forget about us

 

of course I'll let you know how it goes. I really got a ton of help from you guys and it's much appreciated.

 

update #2; not great. truck seemed to be running fine. made it about 400 or so miles in the first day. parked for the night. started up fine next morning no CEL. drove about 2 miles before it came back on. went another 10 miles or so before it started to flash again. slowed down. stopped flashing. drove some more . flashed again (each time for about 10 seconds). I should add I am now officially in the middle of nowhere. I'm in a little 1 horse town now, then it's another 200+ miles until the next nothing town. still a good 500 or so miles from the border. truck is def missing a bit I can hear it in the exhaust and at idle the motor shakes a bit more than it was yesterday.

I realize that the occasional flashing indicates a bad misfire and that I am prob ruining my cat but at this point in the game I"m not sure what my options really are. I can try to find a "mechanic" around here but who knows.

fwiw it still has plenty of power and doesnt' seem to be lagging or shaking at speed. I assume if I drive it like it is another 500 miles I will be damaging it.

damn it.

 

update #3

no luck finding a mechanic so no choice but to get back on the road. filled the tank, drove with a feather foot and kept it around 55mph and while the cel stayed on it did not flash again. put down another 250 miles like that. on the plus side, keeping the speed down and driving light gained an incredible amount of MPG. went from getting aboug 17 on the last tank to 23.5 on this one!

the only other difference between the morning (flashing cel) and the afternoon was that I didn't use the AC, which was a drag since it's about 100 degrees, but I can't imagine that would have anything to do with the engine misfiring.

assuming I get back to LA in one piece does anyone have a shop or a guy they'd recommend in the greater LA area?

cheers

lucas

 

sorry bud. only in the coachella valley which is 2 hours east of LA. nice place to stay if you want. great weather right now! but yeah, working in the autoparts industry for over 8 years i've met a LOT of great mechanics that are serious. in indio there's Palmer Automotive, next city over in palm desert is a plethora of great mechanics.

 

did you change the #2 coil with the no name coil? which coil was cracked?