P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire - Headgasket Replacement

What's your oil change interval, and which weight do you use?

You've made good progress though.

 

Bout 5000, or maintenaince light. Mobile 1 syn, 5w-30. Never drank a drop until just very recently when the CEL came on from the misfire/HG, I checked the oil and it was 1.25qt low! That was the only time though. I took a sample of my oil, I may send it in to Blackstone. And thanks, i'm thinking I'm going fairly slow due to how much time I spend looking for that socket I just set down!

Day 2:

 

At this point, if you haven't already, I'd turn the crank to get the timing all lined up. It will really help future you. As well as remove those two studs directly over the oil pan machined face.

 

You following a tutorial or just going at it? Please keep your expenses recorded/posted. And pics pics pics!

 

+1

 

Timing lined up, more pictures taken, now off with them heads! I've read about removing those studs, doesn't really look possible to get a good seal without removing them! And thank you again for the pointers, all help is appreciated. What do you think I should do about carbon deposits on the pistons? I'm a little scared to start scraping as I don't want to scratch the bores or the machined top of block. Should I leave them alone? Soak in some sort of chemical? Turn the crank to bring each piston to the top, then very carefully scrape off the bulk of the deposits?

 

I spot victoria

 

Basically just going at it. No youtube- just my manual, this forum, and several 12 packs of beer. Although it helps that I rebuilt my Corolla engine couple years ago, but I used the same approach that time as well. I've got lots of pictures, anything you want to see in particular? All the pictures start looking the same to me... Will post parts list with breakdown tonight, but I'm about $2500 in so far, all OEM parts from the stealership.

 

Good gasket....Bad gasket!

 

are you talking about that center, round, indentation?

 

I think its the camera/angle/lighting/your eyes/your monitor/

 

The OEM intake valves all have those indentations. Just the flash.

Those head gaskets let off a LOT of material. Wow. Even between cylinders, in your second to last picture.

Just wipe the pistons clean as best as you can, to remove and loose carbon build up. If you can clean the valves of any large build ups, that'd be the best.

Did you already check the heads with a straight edge?

Once all assembled and timed, before the cover goes back on, rotate the crank just a little, so the square edges of the cog for the oil pump, are square/parallel with the ground. Then match the oil pump the same. It will make install easier.

 

Just the angle/lighting.. they all have the indentation

 

I'm going to take the cylinder heads into a machine shop to have been cleaned and checked, probably new valve seals as well. Will be checking with the straight edge. Awesome pointer about the oil pump. That would suck to have the sealant on there and then struggle to get it lined up. I'm going to put in a new oil pump, I'm guessing I need to prime it..

 

To prime, just pull the fuel pump relay. Crank until you see the oil light on the dash go off.

 

Consult service manual, it has detailed instruction on all this process. Keep in mind that valve head bolts are first torqued and then tight to certain degrees. Good luck with your repair.

 

Head bolts*