P0333 Code

I bought a OBD2 scanner (Bluetooth one) to try and diagnose / fix an issue with my truck.

It pulled a P0333 Code.

I have been driving with the check engine light on for over 1.5 years now (please dont yell at me).


I'm not a mechanic.

Does anyone know where to find the wiring / harness for this Knock Sensor?

I figure if shes been drivin smooth over a year and a half its likely a wiring / sensor issue.

Id like to try the easiest things first

Thank you for your time

 

Welcome to TW.

Do a search here and you'll find this code has been discussed many times. Most cases involve wires chewed by rodents. If this is what's happened to your truck, you'll either find you're relatively lucky and the damage is easy to fix, or it's in a really bad spot and more painful to repair.

Good luck with the diagnosis, let us know what you find.

 

The job itself sucks.
There is a metal pipe in the way, total cluster f\/ck.

I mean, if it drives ok. I’d question whether I’d tackle that job.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...p0333-diy-knock-sensor-harness-repair.547066/

If you do decide to do, you have choice.
The hard way. Or the cut it and not as hard way.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ock-sensors-on-the-4-0l.674820/#post-24855522

 

Thank you for the replies.

I will add this...

I cleared the engine code with my reader. the check engine light came on within about 3 seconds of firing it up. Would this likely mean its a short since it happened so quickly. might have even been like 1 second

 

0333 is for an open. ( Loose connection, damaged wire, bad sensor)
0332 is for a Short.

If history has repeated it's self, you are probably looking for rodent damage. (Chewed wires)
Hopefully you get lucky and see the problem, and it’s not down under the intake.

Also, you say the truck drives fine?
I believe the truck enters fail safe mode with this code?
It retards the timing to max. I bet the truck really runs good when fixed.

 

Hi everyone, I got this problem too.
My truck is a 2014 and when I look up for part #82219-0C010, fitment is stated to be for 2005-2012. À parts shop told me I need part #82219-0C030. Could anyone confirm which one I actually need? Thank you.

 

It's not a bad idea to pick up some peppermint rodent repellent spray and hose down your engine with the stuff. It's obviously smelly (not a bad smell tho) but will help keep the rodents away from those wires and your vehicle in general

 

So I just went through this on my 08. I only went so far as removing the intake manifold. The green wire on bank 2 (driver's side) was chewed through right at the connector. I was able to disconnect it from the sensor and pull enough of the wiring up between the coolant line and the head to cleanly cut the connector from the harness. I then had to remove the pin from the connector and solder a new length (2" or so) onto the pin,and reassemble the connector. Just a couple of tips that I learned that haven't read in any of the other threads.

1. If you have to rebuild and resolder the harness, use the butt connectors that are heat shrink with solder in the middle. (Best invention ever in my opinion.)

2. When removing the top plenum, on the back of the plenum, there is a bracket with two clips on it. One holds the heater core hoses, the other is a wiring harness. Wait until the plenum is free before attempting to disconnect the clips from the bracket. You will be able to slide the plenum forward ~3 inches, making it much easier to disconnect and you won't need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket.

3. I was able to get the connector back on the knock sensor with my fingers without cutting or removing the coolant tube. (I didn't remove any of the cooling system except the two lines connected to the throttle body. Minimal coolant loss)

All together I estimate the repair to have taken ~5 hours and the only cost associated was the two butt connectors as all of my gaskets were still good.

I hope this helps anone trying this for themselves. I am by no means a mechanic, but this was a pretty straightforward repair.

Don't let fear hold you back!

 

I bought some from a hobby shop that sells rc cars and parts. Other than there, I've never seen them sold anywhere. Every electrical supply store I've been in doesn't carry them. I've often wished I had more but not enough to try to find them again.

 

Amazon

$15 TICONN 200 Pcs Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (200PCS)

https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Conne...+heat+shrink+with+solder,aps,258&sr=8-1-spons