P0340 and P1300

Still trying to figure this headache out, many people have had similar issues but I can’t find a solution from the problem I’m having. I found one forum for first gens on these codes and the dude just ended up replacing his starter after doing absolutely everything else and then it solved it. Think I’m in the same boat? It has thrown cam and crank position sensors, as well as the generic p1300 which means igniter circuit 1. Any help would be appreciated my truck runs fine but is very challenging to get started, no stalling or touch idiling. Also recently did my timing belt and all that jazz not long ago but it was still doing it before. Started a little while after I got done with the knock sensors but not instantly

 

been a ford engine mechanic for 30+ years, no idea how replacing the starter is going to fix this...
Time to see a professional that knows the product, dealer....

 

The guy who "fixed' it by replacing his starter makes sense to me. The camshaft position sensor is the type of sensor that requires a minimum rpm in order to produce a signal that the PCM can understand. In addition to this there is a minimum voltage required at the PCM and other sensors in order for them to do what they have to do. Usually a 10.5 - 11v under load, i.e. cranking, is too low. It might be enough to turn the motor over but not fast enough for the "system" to work resulting in extended crank time, hard start etc.

The battery, the battery cables and starter need to be checked, looking at them isnt good enough, preform a voltage drop test on all posative and negative battery cables and see if you can get an amp draw and rpm test readout on the starter, you might have to take it out and down to an auto parts store that has the equipment for that.

For the electricly curious the cam sensor is a variable reluctor sensor (2 wire) whereas a 3 wire sensor is a hall effect sensor. The difference between them is one signal is saw tooth and the other, the 3 wire is a square wave type signal.

 

Well ide do some serious testing, amperage draws / load testing, before shwagging a starter at it..
Test battery too & cables...
But if a starter is $100 & you want to roll the dice again, go ahead..
Theres plenty of fords with similar systems & never seen a starter cause cam related codes...

 

This is 1999 vintage system and it is an apples oranges comparison. Maybe, maybe Toyota had a handful of manufacturer specific PIDs outside of OBDII. Last time I looked at a new Superdurty with Fords IDS there were what, 400 + PIDS?

 

Sounds good thanks a lot, I’ll do some testing tmrw or Tuesday and let you know what I find out, any more testing I should make sure I do in order to figure out if the starters working alright?