P0420 code Question

I have a 2011 Tacoma 4.0 V6 (166K miles) that I bought used and have been driving around town for about a month. I just installed some AAL's that raised it 3", more than I wanted. I was advised to load it down and drive it some and it should settle down. I put 350lbs. of cement blocks in the back and drove it a bit. It dropped down to 1.5" with the 350lbs. in there.
But I was driving on a back road hwy about 55 mph with the cruise control on in 6th gear and started going up a maybe 5-7 degree grade and the CEL came on with the "slip indicator" light. I have a HF ZR15S code reader and it showed a P0420 code. Was this just because I was bogging the engine down a bit? Should I just clear the code and just make sure and downshift to 5th when going up grade with a load or do I have replace the cat? Is this the the drivers side or the passenger side? Will it screw up the engine if I drive for say 3 hours at hwy speeds with the CEL on.It is driving just fine,no obvious performance issues. I am planning a trip soon.

 

I've had the P0420 code for 3 years now. Mine comes and goes about every 200 miles. It's the passenger side. I've never noticed any performance issues with mine. Do you live in a place that has inspections? I don't clear mine anymore cause it comes and goes so often. I tried to swap the O2 sensor but mine is seized. Every time I get close to getting it removed or inspected, something else comes up that I spend my money on, I've got a new suspension clunk I'm working on....so it goes. At this point it's low on my list of things to do, I think my truck will be fine but good luck with yours.

 

I just cleared it and went for a ride on the same route I took as before and just went up that grade in 5th with the cruise off and it didn't trigger the light.I heard it takes a while for it to go off anyway. I also drove on the interstate 80 mph in 6th gear with the cruise on for about 1/2 hour and then back home with no light yet.
I have another property with a cabin where they don't have inspections so I just register it there. So if it keeps going off I would want to put that adapter thing on the 02 sensor after the front cat on the passenger side? Can I spray some PB blaster on it when it is cooled down to start loosening it up or do the fumes mess up the sensor?

 

I sprayed mine with PB but still couldn't get it off. I bought a new sensor and drilled out the fouler thing but still haven't gotten around to installing it. I did burn myself pretty bad on the hot pipe but this was a different issue where I went under the truck after driving and turned my front drive shaft to make sure it wasn't engaged, I accidentally touched the exhaust and got a blistered burn on my wrist. Doh! I haven't tried after that.

 

If I had same code , at first would clear for few months then come back , then stayed permanent. Never noticed any difference in performance, I tried everything from fuel additives to swapping O2 sensors , even replaced MAF . Nothing worked .
Had truck in dealership for a minor recall I think , so I asked them to diagnose.
They said it was failed catalytic converter. Would not cause any issue to drive it if I didn’t wanna replace catalytic converters at $1200 per side. So basically if I’m understanding it correctly,
Cats are not plugged or restricting flow.
They are just worn out and not cleaning the exhaust gases at full efficiency.
Since we don’t have emissions testing where I live , I forgot about it . but check engine light always bugged me so I tried this and it has been 2 years without code coming back. And no engine light .

 

I hear you! I knew I would probably have things I needed to fix on this truck. I just glad so far the "things" are things I can fix myself. Just changing all the drive line fluids and coolant to be sure it would last. Then when draining the coolant plugs on the engine block I noticed an axle boot tear. Reboot with OEM boots. Then change out the needle bearing for the ECGS bushing while I'm in there. Then AAL's for the cap I'm getting so it doesn't sag from the weight of the cap. Now the cat light comes on. Next week I'm getting NHOU under coating so I won't have to search for another one in AZ because my frame has rusted out!
This is just all part of making it your own I guess.

 

The straight ones typically dont work on NA vehicles, I've seen the 90 degree o2 spacers work on the 4.0 though.

 

I’m driving around with a P420 code for a while now.

I just clear it and move on with my life.

 

CED17 I guess we can't get that exact style in the US. If I search on Canadian Amazon I see them but we have a different style they look similar and the shipping is way out there also.

 

So the threaded ones (18mmx1.5) only work on Canadian and the North American (USA) need the flanged style?

 

I tried Amazon.ca straight ones with no success but I've seen

https://wss4x4shop.com/products/o2-...vLvZoJla23Hh5Xqoe5Aqn-uTNvQ6wt04Yll-Le2CoNzRU

this one work on a friends 2011 tacoma

 

I remember seeing a few different types some with the filters , can’t remember if the ones I got had it . I don’t know how there would be any difference in a US vs Canadian vehicle , my truck was built In California as far as I know. Unless emissions standards vary .
I did question a mechanic about raising the sensors out of the exhaust flow one time while I was trying to get rid of the code , and he said sometimes that makes it worse . But I think half the mechanics I questioned automatically hear or think plugged or fouled cats causing restriction.
Idk ‍♂️ . But I do know that for $20 vs $2400, it eliminated the P420 code.

 

I'm going to try the ones from Amazon if the fault keeps coming up. Also I am a metal fabricator so if I need to go the 90* route I will get these 3/8" elbows and cut the adapter in two and tig weld them to make a 90* adapter.
The one Bishop links to is $60 plus shipping for 1.When trying to enter your address for calculating shipping it won't let you enter USA only Canada! To make this it will cost $15 plus my time. But thank you for the link so we can see another option but the adapter from Amazon may work as is.

 

I got rid of my P0420 with this Doorman spark plug non-fouler. 2 for $11.
It will do until I get the exhaust leak taken care of.

I bought a O2 sensor removal socket but it wouldn't budge. I then used a 22mm boxed end wrench with which it came off easily. Sparingly used some MMC78 on the threads.

 

I was going to get the Doorman but the product listing didn't state what the thread size was. I am hoping the straight fitting will work as is and that will be the end of it. If it comes on something like once a month I will just keep the code reader in the center counsel and clear the CEL. I ordered a 1/2" drive socket. It should either work or break! The last time I worked on 02 sensors I had to heat it up with a torch to get it to break free. They run pretty hot from normal use I think anyway.I'm just glad to know that this P0420 code doesn't alter the way the engine runs as far as messing up the AF mixture.

 

Well yes the Dorman is the same thread but you have to drill out the bottom. I did mine to 1/2".

I bought the Tekton 3/8" socket. I just couldn't get the leverage with such a tall socket at that angle.

I had a old 22mm Stanley wrench. The sensor connector fit through the box end. Much easier and with one tap of a hammer it came loose.

 

Was that box end a 6 point?

 

12 point

 

Dorman anti-foulers also, drilled them out and they've worked like a charm for the last 3 years.