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P0705 code popped on yesterday

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by rondog, Jan 19, 2014.

  1. Apr 12, 2014 at 7:47 AM
    #21
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    No difference between 2 and 2L. Just in the wiring diagram it is called 2L, so I kept it the same in describing things to eliminate confusion. The way to determine 2 from 3 is just by looking at the connector. The terminals go in order by 1,2,3,4,etc. So since 1 is R-W, then 2 would be the first yellow one after that, then 3 would be the second yellow wire. I will see if I can find a connector diagram and add it to the bottom.

    OK, I can't show the actual picture because the software is protected, but it appears there are 2 rows of terminals. If you turn the connector to where you are looking at the face of the plug (as seen from the transmission side) and you put the release tab on top, there are 2 rows. The top one has 4 and the bottom has 5. Terminals 1 and 2 are in the top middle, with 3 and 4 after it. Finding terminals 2 and 3 should be easy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  2. Apr 14, 2014 at 9:25 AM
    #22
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, back at it this morning :pccoffee:

    I think today I'm going to go into the junction block and verify all the connections are solid. The reason being is I experienced a new symptom yesterday.

    That new symptom is.....ding ding ding, delayed shifting! That symptom has been present in other people having this issue.

    Now the reason I want to make sure all the connections are tight is I drove about 10 miles up a mountain trail with 600lbs of concrete yesterday. It was bumpy as hell. About half way up, I stopped, put it in park then about a minute later, got back in. I put her in Drive and whoa, that wasn't normal..delayed shift into drive. About 3-5 seconds before it actually engaged.

    Back to BamaToy1997's response: What connector am I supposed to be looking at? You say the transmission connector, but I don't know which one you are referring to. There are quite a few going into the transmission. Or are you talking about from the 10A IG1 fuse?
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  3. Apr 14, 2014 at 9:35 AM
    #23
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    The connector I am referencing will be the one at the transmission where the shift linkage is connected. That is your PRNDL switch.
     
  4. Apr 14, 2014 at 10:26 AM
    #24
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I guess the easiest way to get to it would be remove the center console? I need to look at my chiltons manual, it may have a good explanation of how to get to it
     
  5. Apr 14, 2014 at 1:39 PM
    #25
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    No. Removing the center console is where you gain access to the shift interlock computer. We are talking about the transmission range selector, or PRNDL switch, which is attached on the outside of the transmission where the shift linkage attaches to the TRANSMISSION, not the shifter.
     
  6. Apr 15, 2014 at 10:45 AM
    #26
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    oh, ok my bad. I am quite technically declined when it comes to electronics like this. It was just the words I wasn't understanding..ok looking at the plug that goes into the park/neutral switch, got it.

    So how do I test if the wire/connector is bad? Is that what you meant by using a jumper? I know I could start replacing the park/neutral switch and if that doesn't work the shift lock control ecu but I looked the parts up and they're $$$.

    I'm getting some cage work done next week so I'll have access to the shift lock control ecu since the whole dash and console will be apart. If I can I really want to solve this before next week.

    I'm really leaning towards a loose connection somewhere since what I experienced this past weekend with the new symptom of delayed shifting happened right after a really bumpy trail ride.
     
  7. Apr 15, 2014 at 6:20 PM
    #27
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Yes, the jumper wire between 2 and 3 on the switch at the transmission is an easy indicator of the most likely fault. Not a 100% guarantee, unless you can run a full diagnostics, but yes, it is the place to start. I will never guarantee a diagnosis over the internet. lmao.
     
  8. Apr 15, 2014 at 6:53 PM
    #28
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I am going to try the jumper thing but I need to clarify a few things first and I'm going to lay it out step by step so I don't mess anything up.

    1. unplug the connector from park/neutral switch
    2. add jumper to connect terminal 2 and 3
    3. At that point, the connector remains unplugged since I have a jumper in terminal 2 and 3 (I planned on just going through the connector head itself)
    4. Turn the truck on, sitting there in P, you are saying I should see 2 illuminated?

    This is how I am understanding what you're saying. Excuse my ignorance :D


    On another note, I just spent about an hour taking the center console out and cleaning out all the dust and stuff in there. I verified all the connectors were solid going to the shifter. I think I was looking at the shift control ECU. It was one of the few things with plugs under the shifter
     
  9. Apr 17, 2014 at 6:35 AM
    #29
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Yes, you have the process for testing correct. No ignorance at all. We all have to learn at some point something we have never done before. Yes, the small "box" under the shifter is the shift control ECU. I would suspect that to be at fault if the jumper test fails to light up the shift indicator on the dash correctly.
     
  10. Apr 17, 2014 at 1:48 PM
    #30
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    Great white North 51.0333° N, 93.8333° W
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    2010.TRD.SportDCLB4x4Limited leather package
    TRD Sport Rally -5 speed automatic Limited ,Factory heated leather seats ,chrome package,Super white with front windows tinted to 35 % Dick Cepek DC-2 wheels Summer tires - Good year silent armor P265/65R17 Winter tires - Good year P265/65R17 Ultra Ice studded Illuminated 4x4 switch TRD 3rd brake light cover ($20) TRD seat belt shoulder protectors (5). ($50) TRD ...B pillar emblems ($20) TRD rear slider sticker with devil horns ( $6) TRD summer floor matts ($60) TRD steering wheel emblem ($20) TRD floor pedals .($95) TRD shorty antenna ($14) TRD front Windshield emblems ($17) TRD head pillows .($60) TRD head rest protectors TRD door scuff protection $20 TRD floor matt emblems ($40) TRD tow plug emblem . ($40) TRD cigarette lighter with LED.($35) TRD tissue dispenser ($12) TRD front bezel emblems ($9) TRD door emblems ($6) TRD lanyards($9) TRD lisence plates with TRD bolts($50) TRD fender emblems TRD center caps Part Number:PT904-35070-CC ($80) TRD cd
    I am still lurking on this one too . Wanna know what the issue is so hurry up and start testing lol .:D
     
    lynyrd3 likes this.
  11. Apr 17, 2014 at 2:15 PM
    #31
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering where you went :p

    I'll be doing it in a few hours once I get off work.
     
  12. Apr 17, 2014 at 3:10 PM
    #32
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey Bill, one more question. Once I have the jumper in place and turn the truck on, should I not shift out of P or am I supposed to shift into D, 2nd or something else?
     
  13. Apr 17, 2014 at 4:05 PM
    #33
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    I think you are bypassing the actual switch to do the test . As long as the ignition is on , jumping the wires will trick the truck into thinking you are in second gear without the truck running ofcourse .I am not the lucky one with a schemtatic . I would kill for schematics again .
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  14. Apr 17, 2014 at 4:49 PM
    #34
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    What he said! ^^^^^
     
  15. Apr 17, 2014 at 5:00 PM
    #35
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    got it! Thanks guys, leaving work right now and will try as soon as I get home. Will post results right after
     
  16. Apr 17, 2014 at 6:29 PM
    #36
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I know you said just count over from one side of the other and the terminals would be in order, however, this plug isn't quite easy to follow :confused:

    http://imgur.com/a/Ztgoc#NhrNmRY
     
  17. Apr 17, 2014 at 7:20 PM
    #37
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Doesn't matter. Jumper the two yellow wires.
     
  18. Apr 17, 2014 at 8:04 PM
    #38
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So in my head, I was going to use a piece of wire like this and insert them into the connector and connect terminal 2 and 3. In this case, I don't know which terminal on the plug are the two yellow wires. How else can I "jump" the two yellow wires?

    [​IMG]

    edit:
    Here is a better idea of what is going on in my head on jumping the two wires
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  19. Apr 17, 2014 at 8:11 PM
    #39
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    You can simply turn it over and look at other side. It is not difficult to figure out which wire is which. They pass straight through. Just like your second picture
     
  20. Apr 17, 2014 at 8:16 PM
    #40
    rondog

    rondog [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok, if I was to guess, it is these two. I just don't want to plug into the wrong terminals.

    jAcBuMC.jpg
     

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