P1135 error code. Where to buy part?

Stay away from Bosch. I have had super shitty luck with Bosch sensors in the Toyota.

 

There is really no difference in the outputs of the Denso and OEM Denso sensors. Just the OEM one is bigger.

 

Truck has 170k miles, last week truck started to miss and pulled a random miss fire code. Replaced plugs and wires, they were over due. Took it for a 20 mile test drive, preformed fine with no CEL. Next morning after a five minute drive and the CEL came on. This time it was a p1135 a/f sensor heater circuit fault. With the age of the truck i just replaced the sensor ( bosch brand, i see that brand is not suggested ). Cleared the code by disconnecting the battery and pulling the efi fuse. After five minute of driving the CEL light cam on again with the p1135 code. I have not tested for power and resistant on the sensor yet.

What is procedure if the power to the sensor isnt 12v?

This is the girlfriends truck and im new to toyotas but this site is very helpful.

 

I have gotten the heater circuit problem on two different Tacomas and had to replace the sensor. Get the Denso from Rock Auto and get the discount code from the vendor section to save some cash.

Here is a link to FSMs and you can follow the procedure to check.

FSM

 

funny, i'm going to order and replace the same sensors being discussed here....but I get CEL P2238.....I've had the codes read by 2 different shops both saying bank 1 sensor 1.......just fyi

also I haven't read how exactly to get rid of the codes, looks like people continue to get the codes even after replacing both sensors....????....is there a special way to clear codes for good???

 

There are a number of codes that refer to the upstream A/F sensor. According to the FSM the P2238 is "Oxygen Sensor Pumping Current Circuit / Low (for A/F sensor)
(Bank 1 Sensor 1)". P2239 is the same wording except change the word "Low" to "High". Right off the bat I can find 8 codes referring to the upstream sensor (bank 1 sensor 1).

To remove the code, I delete them with a code reader. You can also just wait and it should go away with multiple start/stop cycles, as long as it is really fixed.

 

so wonder if I actually have a bad sensor or just "LOW" air flow maybe?

 

I'm getting this code on my OBD Scanner. My truck has been cutting off on me at low speeds (usually in traffic).So I hooked up my scanner to the ECU and got this code. The description for that code for Toyotas stated "Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 1)" Could this be the reason it is killing?

 

Truck has been running rough recently as well as cutting off. It cuts off mainly while I am in traffic and going slowly. As I take my foot off the brake and on to the gas, the RPM's drop and then go up. Yesterday, it killed about 3-4 times. Now I searched on here and can't find a thread that shows my particular issues with the truck. I hooked up my scanner to it and it came back with a P1135 code. What could this be? I've had people tell me a leak in my vacuum, bad coil, etc. I'm on a tight budget so I don't want to replace something that I don't have to. Thanks in advance

 

02 quad, v6 2wd auto. 163k miles. Owned since new.
Never once had a lick of trouble from this truck, not once.

CEL came on today so I stop by Auto zone to have em check the code. p1135.
"Air fuel sensor heater circuit (bank 1)
Probable cause, open or short circuit condition.
Poor electrical connection."

I disconnected, reconnected, didn't see any problem with connections.
Should I just go ahead and replace it?

Thanks!

 

Or not??

 

I just had my sensors replaced along with a new magnaflow muffler at same time. I was headed home and driving in Austin's traffic and it died several times. I had same exact issues as you describe, rpms drop and then go up and dies. Did you figure it out?

 

Replaced o2 sensor with a denso from Amazon(best price). All good so far. No more check engine light.

 

Greetings. New to the site. I have the same P1135 code. Nobody has mentioned that the manual shift uses a different part .

$170 Denso 234-9003 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor

Denso 234-9003 is the manual part number.

$137 234-9001 Upstream Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor with 10.6” 4-Wire Harness, for Auto Trans Equipped Vehicles

234-9001 is for an auto trans. FYI

 

Correct, same sensor, different length cable. Do not try to use a universal that makes you cut and crimp wires. The O2 sensor uses the oxygen content inside the wire as the atmospheric reference. If you crimp something, it will not report correctly. If you solder the wire, the sensor will not work at all.

 

CAVEAT: If you are embarking on the replacement of the pre-cat air/fuel ratio sensor be prepared. 2000 PreRunner 2.7. 155K miles. So Cal truck. No rust. I attempted to change mine due to a code for lean exhaust (forget what the specific code was but the scanner showed that sensor voltage stuck at one reading, did not fluctuate like it should) and one of the mounting studs broke off when attempting to remove the retainer nut. I then had to remove that portion of the exhaust system and have a machine shop drill out the stud. The studs are not available from Toyota separately so you have to source something yourself. Not too difficult to find as it's a run of the mill exhaust stud. You need the right hardware. Then, in removing that part of the exhaust by trying to loosen the mounting nut holding the pipe to the manifold, the nut was seized to the stud and the manifold mounting stud came out of the manifold instead, leaving damaged threads behind. I had to buy a tap to chase the threads in the manifold so that I could install a new stud. Limited room to access that hole, too, and I was almost forced to remove the manifold from the head. Toyota does sell the manifold studs separately. All in all, a job that should have taken ten minutes took three days!

 

Sorry to hear it took three days. I was lucky, the nuts for mine were rusted, but came off without too much trouble. The connector is on top of the manual trans, just forward of the shifter. You will need to remove the cat heat shield from the cab to reach the connector. If your hands are small, the connector can be released, use the replacement to visualize where the release is. It would have been much easier, and not much more work, to unbolt the crossmember from the frame and lower the trans a bit. I even tried to access from the inside, through the shifter.

 

Another P1135 error code. This is for the upstream O2 sensor. Is it possible to determine if it is in fact the upstream sensor or the downstream O2 sensor? I'd hate to purchase the precat O2 sensor only to find out I need to buy the other.

 

P1135 Toyota - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1135_toyota.html#ixzz3n62PxnYi
I think that the downstream O2 is called Bank 1 Sensor 2 and the downstream O2 is a different code P0141.

 

Thanks. I've ordered the part today.