P1300 and 1310 code, still runs

My 97 Tacoma with a 2.7 just started stuttering terribly one day. I got home and it said it was ignitor circuit 1 and 3. My truck has the two coil packs not distributor. It does not have the ignitor plug that I've seen others post about. I put two coils in and spark plugs, seemed to be good for about 10 miles then started shaking on acceleration again. As soon as I let of gas , press clutch or brake it quits shaking. Drive shaft and U joints are tight and greased. I have ordered another set of denso coils and denso spark plug wires. They will get here Wednesday. Until then, does anyone have any other ideas to check? Everything I've read about p1300 and p1310 codes the truck wont crank. Mine cranks and idles rough, drives worse. But it does run.

any help is appreciated.

 

Hope this explains and helps…

 

Got new denso coils and spark plug wires and no change. I went through the list on the pdf and ecm seems fine. I thought for sure it had to be that. anymore suggestions?

 

Could be ignition switch.....runs at idle.....and then stalls when heated up and taxed...

 

it runs, just rough. Like a misfire. It doesn't stall out at all. Shaking and vibrating at any speed if you're on the accelerator. As soon as you let off the gas, press the clutch or brake it smooths out. Until you hit the gas again. Loss of power, struggles to get up the hills.

 

After messing with it more today, I cleaned the MAF sensor again, made sure I had no vacuum leaks the only code it’s throwing now is camshaft position sensor. But that’s been the only code it’s shown since I got the truck about 6 months ago. It’s never shut off on me so I just didn’t worry about it. But I hardly think that’s the reason it’s running so rough. Could it be the injectors? I tested the ohms at the front two( cause I could get my multimeter on them easy) and they were both at 14.5 . I know that won’t tell me if they’re clogged or not. I also put sea foam in it and it didn’t help . I only ran it for a few minutes after the sea foam . Next would be fuel filter, new injectors or is there a way to test fuel pump?

 

I'd suspect you have a wiring harness rubbing on something and shorting out the IGF circuit, idk about 1st gens but on 2nd gens the PCM will disable the fuel injector for any cylinder it does not receive an ignition confirmation (IGF) signal for.

 

The fuel filter under the intake is difficult, You will need a flare nut wrench or you might round the corners of the fitting… then you are screwed. You can check for volume of the pump by putting a hose on the input line and routing it to a container and cranking over the motor. Checking pressure is a different story but usually if you have poor volume you have poor pressure.

Something that might be worth investigating is the power supply to the injectors. I see that there are 2 splices. I would follow the injector harness and start wiggling it to see if it cuts out… Dm93 could be right to with a run through, same diagnosis, start wiggling wires.

 

I agree with the wiring Gurus
Since you RR-d plugs/coil packs and (IMO) ECM’s rarely go bad, that rules out top and bottom ‘causes’ above

The other two middle reasons I would concentrate on
Poor connection/pigtail loose/wire shorted/melted

I don’t think this is a misfire
You would throw a P0300-P0304

 

Car parked outside?
Weather changed recently?

Any signs of a cute critter under the hood when u changed plugs/coil packs?

 

I crank it up and the day after adding seafoam and it seemed the same. The next day I unplugged the camshaft position sensor to see what would happen. If it would crank or not, just to see and it actually felt normal again. Its now not throwing any now except for the camshaft position sensor(still unplugged). Buts its had that code showing since I got it almost a year ago with no issues. Would a camshaft position sensor cause rough idle? I'm nervous to drive it now because I didn't really do anything to fix it. It just happened on its own which means it could just revert back to running terrible again. I ordered new fuel injectors, camshaft position sensor and a fuel filter. Should be here tomorrow. I don't know now to start changing parts out or just drive it till it messes up again and hope for the best. I will put in the Cam position sensor tomorrow and see if I can clear that code.

Its parked in a carport. No recent weather changes. I checked for bad wire connections. I cant see or didn't find any.

 

As to your camshaft position sensor question… from what I am reading the answer is yes. Last paragraph on the last page.

From my understanding of how all of this works, there is what is called a base map that the PCM uses when things go wrong or the PCM is in open loop, a fixed set of spark advance, a fixed set of injection etc. This changes when the PCM goes into closed loop, i.e. modifying injection, spark etc from inputs from the various sensors. Putting in a new cam position sensor could “fix” it, or confuse you even more.

 

Well I hope that it will fix it and finally clear that code. I will update .

 

Changed out camshaft position sensor and the code is still there. Also it did not change the initial problem.

 

I can hear my injectors pulsing so they are working. I'm not throwing any codes for that. Would switching out the injectors be a waste of time? I put in sea foam and it didn't change anything.