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P1300 Code…HELP

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Raspberry, Dec 23, 2023.

  1. Dec 23, 2023 at 6:44 PM
    #1
    Raspberry

    Raspberry [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2022
    Member:
    #399496
    Messages:
    55
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Vehicle:
    1995 Tacoma 4x4
    Full restoration
    So I just went over my 95 taco with a 3rz 2.7 (I JDM swapped it earlier this year, long story) a few days ago. It was running perfect and I drove it to school all this semester. So, after a semester of driving, I changed the oil filter and rotated the tires, and washed up the wheels, just normal maintenance.

    I went to start it back up, and it cranked but would not fire. We banged around and after banging the EFI relay, it fired up. So I just got a new relay and it started up fine.

    The next day, it ran fine until I went to leave work, when it hesitated and cranked for a little bit longer, but did start up. I got home and tried starting it again a few times, each being a pretty slow start (not battery or starter, it cranked fast but took a second to fire).

    So this morning I looked over the relays and connections, all looked good, and found a rag in the air box under the filter. Apparently from some mice as it was chewed up. I removed that and it started up fine.

    I checked the CEL and found 2 codes, p0100 and p1300. I cleared them and drove it around for a while. The p0100 code went away (it was a MAF code so I figure it had to do with the rag).

    The p1300 code came back when I went to start it this evening. Truck starts fine and runs perfectly smooth.

    A few notes

    -The code could have been on for a while since I have always had a CEL light for a modded intake.

    -Truck has around 315k on it, though engine is probably around 60k (I know JDMs are questionable, but I went over this and everything looked good, plus I kept all good accessories and put all new seals on engine)

    What could cause p1300? I’ve read a ton on it and most common cause is coil packs, but this engine is a distributor with no coils.

    Would it be a bad igniter module (it runs fine though?)

    Or maybe just a loose connection/bad ground somewhere?

    Please help, I am loosing my mind over this……
     
  2. Dec 24, 2023 at 1:15 AM
    #2
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2021
    Member:
    #376253
    Messages:
    11,580
    Northern Lehigh Valley Pa
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma 5 speed 3.4
    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along

    The PO1300 code on the 4 cylinder means the ecm is not seeing the signal from the igniter.

    I would need check the 4 cylinders are a little different from the3.4

    open circuit some place bad ground is always possible.

    Most times It turns off the fuel to what the ecm thinks is a non running engine.
     
  3. Dec 24, 2023 at 4:23 AM
    #3
    Raspberry

    Raspberry [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2022
    Member:
    #399496
    Messages:
    55
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Vehicle:
    1995 Tacoma 4x4
    Full restoration
    That’s what I’m confused on. Everything says it should cut the fuel off because it thinks it’s not running, but it’s running totally fine. Could it be the 95 models don’t have the fail safe and it was implemented in the later 1st gens?

    I ordered a new igniter just in case, it was pretty cheap

    I should also add that the fuel pump now runs for a few seconds after I shut the engine off.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2023
  4. Dec 26, 2023 at 10:51 AM
    #4
    Raspberry

    Raspberry [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2022
    Member:
    #399496
    Messages:
    55
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Vehicle:
    1995 Tacoma 4x4
    Full restoration
    Ok, so I cleaned up all the grounds today.

    I started the truck and it cranked up after a second, but the fuel pump still ran after I took the key out.

    So I figured, how could power be getting to the pump after the key is out. The only answer would be a stuck relay. This would also explain why it takes a second longer to start, if the relay sticks in both open and closed positions.

    So I put the original relay back in, and she fired up quick and the pump did not run at all after shutting it off!!

    I’m gonna order a genuine Toyota relay now, since the original probably will stick like it did at the start of all of this.

    Also, the p1300 code would not appear until I started up the truck, ran it, and shut it off. Then when I would start it the next time, it would appear as I soon as it cranked up. It is gone completely now, at least I hope, I’ll drive it for a few days and see.

    I can only assume that somehow, the sticking relay was making the code appear, though that still doesn’t really make sense as it is on a different circuit. But all seems to be well, so if it doesn’t come back, I won’t worry about it.
     

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