'Parasitic Drain' casuing start issues...

Very 1st post so i'd like to say Hi and thanks for any help that's provided.
Recently bought a 2022 TRD off road which i'm loving thus far, haven't made and drastic mods yet mostly just cosmetic ones. I've started having random issues at start up where it sounds like it's not going to start but eventually does. When I took it in to Toyota service they said they couldn't get it to create the issue, they then said it did happen after they let it sit for awhile. They said they couldn't find anything wrong with the system but noticed I had a dash cam (red tiger

$130 F7N Plus REDTIGER Dash Cam Front Rear, 4K/2.5K Full HD Dash Camera for Cars, Free 32GB Card, Built-in Wi-Fi GPS, 3.16” IPS Screen, Night Vision, 170°Wide Angle, WDR, 24H Parking Mode

F7N Plus) hooked up to the rear view mirror using the dash cam power adapter (Dongar unit)
I'm not currently using the rear view camera unit that comes with the unit and I also have the screen of the dash cam time out 2 mins after it's running so i don't think there's any issue with it when the truck is running.
The term that Toyota service used was parasitic draw meaning somehow the webcam is draining voltage from the battery when the truck is off and casuing the startup issues. I've since started unplugging the usb cable from the dongar unit each and every time I turn off the vehicle which honestly is a pain. However the intermittent starting issues continue. I've also added a pedal commander to the throttle cable but like all the reviews i've read on the dongar and the pedal commander I have yet to read of anyone having a battery drain issue.
Toyota did say that they could run another test to try and determine exactly where the drain is coming from but it would cost me 189 bucks but i'm not sure i want to pay that since the truck is less then 2 months old and still has under 1000 miles on it.
Please let me know your thoughts or if you can direct me to the link if this issue was covered in a previsous thread. Any help would be much appreicated.

Thanks!!!

 

Two things:

1) Is your dashcam set to parking mode? If so, this is the source of your power drain. I have a dashcam connected via the Dongar unit and have zero issues with power/starting. I have the Garmin Mini, so there's no LCD screen (I'm not sure why they have them, I'm not going to watch it WHILE I'm driving).
2) I have the Sprint Booster on my truck (it's just like the Pedal Commander). It also does not affect power/starting or the battery.

 

I have a Garmin Mini using the Dongar connector as well. It won't matter what settings the camera is on since the rear view camera is only powered when the key is on.

 

I have a 2022 and noticed the same thing with mine. I am completely stock with no aftermarket components or additional electronics plugged in. I just took mine in for the 5k service. They didn’t seem to notice the issues.

I would describe it as a slow response to start when turning the key. Almost like a cold diesel. There have been a few times I let go of the ignition too quick, thinking it’s going to start, but it doesn’t turn over.

Let me know if you get this issue resolved.

 

I'm not sure how that dongar adapter is wired, but assuming it's pulling battery power (pin 6), move the wire to the ignition source instead (pin 10).



No more need to disconnect when you turn the truck off.

Regarding parasitic draw, there are quite a few instructions online. Just keep in mind that some things do run while the truck is off (emissions test is one example).

The stock batteries are also notorious to going bad. My 2017's battery kicked the bucket in 2 years. No mods when it happened.

 

Drive over to an AutoZone and have them run an alternator and battery test on your vehicle.

Also id imagine you could put an ammeter inline with the battery and selectively pull fuses, noting the current drop after each fuse pull to find out what circuits are pulling the most amps... Best to have a person taking the measurement and writing down the circuit being tested.

 

Welcome to the forum

This truck is 2 months old and the dealer wants to charge you a diagnostic fee??

Sounds like you have proven the camera isn't the issue by unplugging it when parked.

I suggest you go back and politely but firmly ask them to correct the issue, you purchased new to have a warranty. Please keep us updated on any progress.

 

It is 2 months old and under warranty, he paid that kind of money not to have to fool with it at Auto Zone.

 

We need more visibility on this post. I wonder if it’s an issue with other 2022. Possibly contribute it to the chip shortage and a lack of QC to get these things out the door? Just a theory.

 

I have a 2021 TRD OR long bed. I just had a similar issue with my 2017 Highlander. I don't see in the posts what the actual milliamp draw is on Westcoastjedi's truck battery. My Highlander had a higher draw (around 300 milliamps if I remember) than what I saw on Ford's during my lifetime as a Ford Tech. My Highlander would go dead in 3 days with a new $$$ odyssey battery, Multiple trips/testing per odyssey said it was my Highlander's fault. My diagnosis was the battery based on load tests and not the OCV test that is popular today. I checked the draw on my Tacoma and it was as high (normal) as my Highlander. My Tacoma can sit weeks and start ok. I bought another battery (from Autozone) for my highlander and the problem went away. I went back to oddysey with their battery charged up showing 12.8 volts and got them to drag out a real old fashion battery load tester. The quick test showed a battery that was fully charged failing a simple load test like we did in the old days. I could not get a refund so I got a new battery from them at that time. Moral of the story is batteries can behave weird and, in my opinion, the best test is the old school way of loading a battery one half the CCA value for 15 seconds and see if voltage drops below 9.6 volts. I usually go 200-225 amps. Very few shops use a real carbon pile load tester. As a Ford Tech I was made to test the battery on every car that I worked on per the Multi Point Inspection. We used some fancy tiny tester that quickly tested and spit out a pass/fail with a calculated battery rating. I thought the tester was not worth using. It failed many batteries. I took the tester into the parts department and tested a bunch of new batteries. It failed many of them. Sorry for the long post, just offering an opinion/advice as a retired Senior Master Tech.

 

FWIW, I have a Garmin Mini 2 with the Dongar adaptor and have not had any issues either. The camera does not power until the truck is started or the ignition is in the ON position. I have days where I don't drive the truck so it does sit for more than 24 hours sometimes. Always starts right up.

To the OP, don't let the dealer take the out of "oh, you have an aftermarket accessory". They will try and use that every time if you let them....probably the excuse they will give you for charging the diagnostic fee.

 

Did the problem start after the camera install or have you recently plugged in anything else you can remember recently? If not unplug the camera and see if it does it if it still has issues could be the battery

 

Oh, I agree with you. However, it's always always good to come to the dealer prepared with information that helps support your case, and to get them to do the right thing.

Now then, my wife and I purchased a 2019 Outback brand new. Battery failed a few times. That's when I decided to get one of those compact Lithium Ion jump units (I have jumped a number of cars with the thing since I purchased it). Rather than go to the dealership, I went to Walmart and got a battery with high CCA at a very decent price.

Low-and-behold last week, we received a settlement notice in the mail about the battery in our Subaru. Who would have thought?

The point here is this - like others say, new batteries can be out of spec. It happens. And when a battery falls to a low voltage state, it's ability to be charged and hold a charge greatly diminishes.

Now I provided the OP two simple enough suggestions to follow... YMMV.

As they say "Winter Is Coming".

 

First off i've heard nothing but great things about this forum and the help that is provided, i actually thought that it would be a day or two before i received a reply, but replies came right away. All y'all rock and your advice is greatly appreicated.
I take it I can't reply to an individual post, i'll need to do a qoute or mini quote? Still trying to learn how this works.

 

1)There is a setting for parking mode but it can only be accessed if you have connected the camera directly to the fuse box. it's grayed out otherwise.
2) I didn't think it would but wanted to give full disclosure of what I have hooked up.

 

I thought this was the case also, but does the button to open a garage work when the truck is off? Which would mean there is power flowing to the rear view mirror connection?
You are correct though I can't actually turn on the camera unless i'm in acc or the truck is running.

 

I'm not sure how it's wired either but will give this a try. I do know it's either a 10 or 12 pin socket but only about 6 of them are used. When I had mentioned this issue to the sevice center the first thing he said was the stock batteries sit for long periods of time and they aren't always good from the time they are put in the trucks, not sure how valid his info is but it did strike me as funny that's the first thing he said.

 

Agree with your statement. Service rep asked me more then one time when he called me if this was something that the dealer installed, i told him no I installed it and i wasn't aware that the dealer would install something like this so perhaps he had never seen the dongar connection and thought it was stock i'm guessing. My sister in law actaully works for this dealer so i could probably get more help if i mention that to the service department but I'd perfer not to throw her name around unless it comes to that. Don't get me wrong I did use her name when talking to sales.

I'll respond back after talking to the service dept again.

 

I had to wait 3 weeks for the truck arrive at the dealer so like any good taco owner I started purchasing items I wanted to install and had them already when the truck arrived. The dash cam was one of these items so it's been installed since day one. I have started unplugged the dash cam everytime after I turn off the truck but the issue is still happening but not every time. I've even parked at 30 mins before my daughter gets out of school (if you don't get there early parking is always backed up) turned off the truck unplug dash cam no radio no ac but do not exit and go to start it and it still sounds like it barely wants to kick over and start. I have noticed that if i'm on an incline school parking lot or my driveway the issue is worse then if i'm on a flat surface but it happens on flat surface it just doesn't sound as severe.

 

I thought the service dept might just replace the battery but they didn't after seeing the dash cam\dongar connection. I think that's the route i'll go which should let me know if something is drawing power while off. Thank you for options to fire back at them with.