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Parasitic draw test

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Jeddo, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. Jan 6, 2019 at 12:48 PM
    #1
    Jeddo

    Jeddo [OP] Member

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    Bed mat, step, and lights, huskie mud flaps, Polk components, Alpine amp, 3 layer sound proofing, B&I blackwood dash kit, fluid film, led cabin and footwell lights, tail letters, window tint, IGGEE seat covers. More to come.
    Just a heads up when testing for parasitic draw .I found my battery so low that I got the dreaded clicking noise two days ago and was concerned that my stereo amp, sub amp, or loc 7 were all of a sudden not properly shutting down .After pulling all the inline, under dash and under hood fuses, the amps tested normal= 0 amp key off exept there were three fuses/circuits which were registering .25 amps. When these were pulled, it allowed the amp draw at the battery to return to .02 amp. These three were 1)the under dash 20 amp Am2 no2, 2)the under hood10 amp Ecu-B no.3, and 3) the under hood 20 amp Ign 2 main .When doing a parasitic drain test on the battery please be aware that the hood warning light and therefore the computer remains active when you are under the hood. In order to get an accurate draw test you must defeat the sensor and allow final system shut down which gave me the acceptable .02 amp reading .first I pulled the sensor wire at the latch and that worked but when I pulled and replaced the EcuB no3 fuse it came back on and stayed on .I then pushed the hood latch down with a screw driver and the amp reading again went from .25 to .02 amps. Beware the hood latch!
     
  2. Jan 6, 2019 at 12:54 PM
    #2
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Smart key vehicles need the hood latch secured for draw.

    Also make sure the key is far enough away from the truck when its parked, it can kill the battery and the fob battery quickly.
     
    davidstacoma and TimC like this.
  3. Jan 6, 2019 at 12:59 PM
    #3
    Stocklocker

    Stocklocker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this tidbit. It will come in useful someday I’m sure..
     
  4. Jan 6, 2019 at 1:10 PM
    #4
    BSFord

    BSFord Well-Known Member

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    How far is a good distance?
     
  5. Jan 6, 2019 at 1:10 PM
    #5
    LivinLoud

    LivinLoud Miller Latte Advocate

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    I mean… it’s a Ford, you don’t care
    Read this as plastic straw test. I’ll see myself out now :rofl::anonymous:
     
  6. Jan 6, 2019 at 1:57 PM
    #6
    Jeddo

    Jeddo [OP] Member

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    Male
    Vehicle:
    2016 Tacoma off road access cab
    Bed mat, step, and lights, huskie mud flaps, Polk components, Alpine amp, 3 layer sound proofing, B&I blackwood dash kit, fluid film, led cabin and footwell lights, tail letters, window tint, IGGEE seat covers. More to come.
    Thanks for the key fob reminder, I thought of that for the test but not for the post .I'm still not sure of the best way to cancel the open hood signal .Pulling the wire by the latch worked and then didn't . Holding latch closed with screwdriver is good for a few seconds. I did not try to push the latch all the way down so I don't know if it will stay locked, I assume just pulling on the latch part with the small spring attached would unlock it?
     
  7. Jan 6, 2019 at 2:22 PM
    #7
    Jeddo

    Jeddo [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2016
    Member:
    #203818
    Messages:
    23
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2016 Tacoma off road access cab
    Bed mat, step, and lights, huskie mud flaps, Polk components, Alpine amp, 3 layer sound proofing, B&I blackwood dash kit, fluid film, led cabin and footwell lights, tail letters, window tint, IGGEE seat covers. More to come.
    How far away for the key fob to activate the computer is a great question .The draw test would be a good way to test this .I assume the results would vary slightly depending on the condition of the fob battery .I will try to test this when I am sure that my problem is resolved .As near as I can tell I either have a bad 2016 battery or a bad 2016 $140 craftman jump/charger .
     

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