Parasitic Draw Unknown Source

My 2021 Toyota Tacoma is getting Parasitic draw, and I have been unable to find where from -- Took to a mechanic, they could not find either.

Info on truck:
2021 TRD Off Road
Only non OEM is Raptor lights, was the first thing I checked -- Not causing the issue
Brand New Alternator & Battery
Roughly 350 mA draw

What I have checked with multimeter(s)
1. Alternator (Incase faulty diode causing drain)
2. Pulled Every Fuse & Relay While Monitoring via multimeter (allowed truck to go back to "sleep" after each fuse)
3. Checked voltage drop across all fuses

*Keys were far away from truck, and hood/door latches were flipped with screw driver as well as door sensor

*From what I understand, mechanic tested everything I did and was unable to find the source of the draw as well

*I've done my best to review all other threads on this topic

 

If you pulled ALL the fuses in both boxes that should have been resolved.

 

I pulled them one at a time. If I disconnect main cable coming from fuse box to battery then yes the draw goes away. However, pulling each fuse one at a time does not drop reading on multimeter. Mechanic had the same result. I am certainly not an expert so open to any advice.

 

The truck is not under warranty? What add-ons do you have? What electrical work have you done, if any? Check your OBD wiring if it has one of them dealer tracker thingys.

 

I bought it used. No add-ons that have anything to do with electrical (Ex: Bed mat, exhaust tip). Only electrical work would be that I installed raptor lights, but I checked that already. Previous owner could have had something done, but I did not see any signs of that -- They had a pretty detailed carfax. I didn't know about the dealer tracker thing, is it just inline with the OBD wiring -- I'll look for that.

 

I’ve done the remove each fuse method and had good results in the past, but came across this when helping a co-worker and say it could be worth it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQcWwU&t=579s&pp=ygUTUGFyYXNpdGljIGRyYXcgdGVzdA==

Less time consuming if you’re going over the test multiple times.

How did you get the current draw - multimeter in series with the battery? Does it drop once you have it in series for a matter of seconds or minutes? How did you find out about the current draw? Is the battery draining over night once it’s fully charged? How long had it been sitting when it didn’t start for the first time? It’s good to test against having a failing battery as the symptoms can be similar to parasitic draw and coupled with a bad parasitic draw diag it can be difficult to get rid of tunnel vision.

 

I actually watched that exact video and followed all his steps. But was still unable to locate the parasitic draw.

The battery is only a couple weeks old, I did have it tested and it is good. The battery will last from a few days to a couple weeks, then dies — I jump it and charge battery. It gets driven everyday, most recent time I drove home from work around 5 and it was dead the next morning at 8am.

 

On ford, its always been the radio....

 

Really need a Toyota tech to confirm, but I believe 350mA is within acceptable tolerance

 

350mA sounds high to me, but it been a while since I last had the problem.
Ironically, as mentioned above, the radio in my last F350.

Either way, 350mA wouldn't kick a new battery in the nuts overnight.
Something sounds amiss..

 

Got it. 350 mA is definitely over spec, but as stated, not the same as over an amp that will nuke a battery overnight. Another test you could do is pulling half of the fuses (a large chunk of them anyway) overnight and noting the battery voltage before and after you leave it for awhile. Repeat until you note which group is causes the most or all the draw and halve the number again and again until the last group or last fuse hopefully is found.

 

350mA is way over, 50mA is maximum although most vehicles will be under 20 when fully asleep.

So you voltage drop checked all the fuses and got no drop on any of them?

 

It may also matter when the measurements are taken. Immediately after shutting off the vehicle, they will be high; after several hours the draws of all the modules go down. Except for that vac test the fuel tank does.

 

Do you have a IID installed? That could be draining your battery.

 

what is NON FACTORY on it?......go from there

 

OP said only Raptor Lights. If his tests are valid, it would seem to be something coming on when it shouldn’t during sleep mode or once the truck’s been sitting. Unless anyone comes up with a useable test, I’d pull groups of fuses overnight / over longish time periods and record the change in voltage each time.

 

Random ideas, but since it's used- look for GPS bank tracker, remote start module, alarm module.

 

The best test is checking voltage drop across fuses, determine which fuse(s) have current going through them, then look at wiring diagrams to see what they feed and develop a game plan. It's quite tedious to do voltage drops on all the fuses but on a modern vehicle you really don't want to be pulling fuses looking for a draw because you tend to "wake" things up then you have to wait for it to go back to sleep which on some vehicles could be an hour.
It sounds like the OP is on the right track with that but we need to know what fuses are active.

 

Good idea as well.

 

That was the test in the video I linked that OP said he already completed with no results. I’d target major connector or circuit groups like infotainment / communication / ignition / srs etc. since any time in the meantime could be making progress through this. It’s free and the vehicle’s sitting overnight anyway. Just my 2 cents.