Passenger Door Smart Key System

I have some wires/pins that will fit really well into the connector too. They're not OEM Toyota, but they're a good fit. Could send you a couple for a small fee.

 

Yeah, it's just avoiding tapping into the wire. Having wire at the pins and making it plug and play. Just like the Pop N Lock PnP Harness.

That's if the C29 connector is even available.

 

I might be wrong then, since I don't know which connector C29 is. The pins I have fit in the connector that plugs into the door handle in the door.

 

It's the one that gets tapped.

 

Thanks OP, your write up made sourcing the parts super easy.

A few observations.

1. The new handle has the ridges on top and bottom so it will match the drivers looks.
2. Used some bailing wire from Home Depot to route wires from inside through the door grommet. Pliers to bend the tip and prevent damage.
Tip... The trucks grommet has a notch that works well to get it started, I did pop the grommet out on the door side. 2 min.
3. I used T-taps with a dab of silicone and 18AWG wire.
4. I used those solder shrink tubes with a heat gun. I normally solder, but wanted to try them out.

 

I may have a crappy install video up on YouTube someday. It's not really anything new; just more details. Using an actual fish tape I got the wire through the rubber boot in a manner of seconds. It's much easier to pull both ends off and run it through. You can do the next thing at your own risk: I removed the 10mm bolt for the door stop. It allows the door to open a little wider to make getting meaty hooks into the door jamb easier. You can straighten out the rubber tube and push right on through. I have had much, much, much more tougher fights with other door jamb boots. This one was simple.

I also used the above soldering butt connectors. I like them for the most part, but would recommend putting some shrink tube over them. They can get a tad soft when heating them up. Up to you.

 

I also added shrink tubing over. As this is the first time using them, I dont know if they will hold up forever.

 

I couldn't say. I've been using them since I bought them, but the oldest is probably no more than a few months old. I do have some of them in some locations that'll subject them to some wear (riding mower). The connection seems sturdy. Time will tell, I suppose. I'm almost positive I bought an overseas knock-off of the real deal, so that's really my only worry.

 

parts arrived! yay!

any tips before i dive in? huge thx to the OP!

 

Got ALL the parts? I thought I had some posi-taps laying around, but I was WRONG! Buying those right after work today to finish mine off.

Give yourself plenty of time, space, and plenty of your favorite beverages. I also was parked too close to my travel trailer, so I couldn't open the door all the way when it came time to remove the boot between the passenger door and body...I made it, but I made it more difficult than I should have made it.

Also, instead of leaving my wire looped or dangling in the bottom of the door, I followed the wire along the support bar for the outer door skin towards the boot, using a couple zip ties to secure it. I didn't want it just laying there. Maybe I'll take a pic of it next time I tear that door apart (see: speaker upgrade).

 

Pic of said wires being routed along inner door support, since I wasn’t paying attention when I first put the wires in. I knew that I had the yellow with the white, but forgot to note if it was in the top or bottom space of the door tap. Install is now complete, I love it. Thanks once again for the great write up @Victory !!

 

Got my wire leads and everything made up after dinner yesterday. Couldnt find exact color matches for factory (gah OCD) BUT, next best was a black and an orange. I used the black to go on the connector with the black stripe. Pulled 25' of wire to be safe and made my connections to the 'yota parts using 3M heat seal adhesive lined connectors. Then some heat shrink over them just to be safe (total overkill, I know).

Headed out this am to pull the door panel. Super easy as directed by OP. gotta give it a swift yank from the bottom and it just pops off. Next was the door handle removal and swap. Exactly as described too. The end little cap that the vaptive Torx screw goes in to took a little jiggling to get lose, had to pull the handle open and use a pick tool to just pull it out. Fed wires through door handle opening and put new handle in, all went back SUPER easy and so fast. Again, exactly as described.

Tomorrow will find some time to start routing wires and make connections.

I wrote this up in a few steps as I see a bunch of apprehensive people. Thought maybe another "you can do eeeeeet" post may boost some confidence. Thats all I got. so far so good. Thanks again to @Victory for this.

 

I need to piece together my crappy video I took while doing this. I've been crazy busy and haven't had a chance to. Hopefully once folks see how quick and easy this is they'll get that push to do it. As of right now it's my favorite modification. I smile every time I use it. Beats getting pissy when I used to try it and it didn't work!

 

already my favorite mod! damn!

 

https://youtu.be/tjlueaMEKao

Really badly done install video. I was in a huge hurry doing it and messing with a selfie stick I had just gotten. The meat is there.

 

Thanks!! I need to do this, have been waiting for a video.

 

Now I feel bad about getting it up. It was taken a month or more ago. Just never got to editing it together.

Hopefully, it'll be helpful either way!

 

Has anyone tried ordering those part numbers that is under the IC3 connectors pictured? 90980-12A27 and 90980-12A28? I Google'd them and they seem to be proper part numbers? I wonder if they can be ordered and a PNP harness be made? Would just need to find terminals to wire in.

I have not or will attempt this mod anytime soon but that seems like it will be a good way to prevent tapping into the factory wires?

Edit: Caribe Makaira, where did you get that diagram from? If you dont mine me asking?

 

Do these wires look like they are all the way inside the connector? I cannot get them to go in any further and they are not pulling out too

 

No..pull them back and turn them 180º...the rubber should be flush with end of hole...