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Passenger side cam bolt issue!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ryguy, Feb 12, 2013.

  1. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:16 PM
    #1
    ryguy

    ryguy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok so here's the deal, just before christmas my truck was involved in an accident (that was not my fault) and as a result my lower control arm and other suspension components were replaced. Anyways, I recently put new wheels and tires on my truck, which have different backspacing than my previous wheels, and also the tires are slightly bigger, so ive been dealing with trimming to avoid rubbing. Part of my solution was to install the toytec 1/4" spacer on the driver side to compensate for the lean, in theory reducing my disproportional rub on the driver side as compared to the passenger. And it did exactly that! but this caused me to need to get my truck realigned, so i took her down to big brand and was expecting to be in and out in no time... of course not. The tech let me know that the front alignement cam bolt on the passenger side was not spinning the the adjustment aspect of the bolt, but instead the inner bolt was simply just spinning in place. Of course, the only place you can get that part is directly from toyota, and of course toyota didnt have any in stock (all this is after my alignement has been adjusted out of spec), but they said they would have it to the shop by the next day. So I came back today expecting to throw in the cam bolt, adjust her into spec, and be on my way... Of course not. After installing the new cam bolt, we realize that one of the metal "guides", if you will, that surround the cam bolt to allow adjustment of the lower control arm, have been forced flat. Thus resulting in no ability to adjust the alignment on that side. Both the front and back "guides" of the front cam bolt have been forces flat. My question to you guys is, how could this have happened? Is it something that could have resulted from shotty work performed by the tire store installing my new suspension components after my accident? It may also be noteworthy that with on side of those "guides" gone on the front and backside of the front cam bolt, the cam bolt is not allowed to spin a full 360 degrees, when in reality it should only be allowed to go so far in either direction. Any and All help you guys can throw at me is extremely appreciated as I would like to get this problem figured out as soon as possible to avoid eating away at my brand new tread! I will try and post pics when I get home and am in front of my truck to give you guys a little more verification as to exactly what I am referring to. I am planning on going back tomorrow to have the head tech take a look at it but would like to have some information to go in with.
     
  2. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:17 PM
    #2
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Cam bolt was seized in the bushing sleeve causing the bolt head to move when the suspension articulated flattening the cam tabs
     
  3. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:18 PM
    #3
    ryguy

    ryguy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What would cause the cam bolt to seize? and what need to be done to correct the flatten tabs?
     
  4. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:20 PM
    #4
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    i JUST had to cut my pass side cam bolt out....was a pain but whatever haha.
     
  5. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:20 PM
    #5
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Rust

    You can reweld the tabs or get heavy duty tabs welded on , but first you need to deal with your LCA bushings / cam bolts
     
  6. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:20 PM
    #6
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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  7. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:22 PM
    #7
    ryguy

    ryguy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well I already have a new cam bolt installed, does a new bushing need to be installed along with it to prevent any further rusting? The cam bolt sleeve was pretty damn rusty when we pulled it out.
     
  8. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:25 PM
    #8
    ryguy

    ryguy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also, is it unusual that only this bolt rusted to the point of seizing? The only reason I ask is because the rear cam bolt on the passenger side was tits when trying to adjust the alignment.
     
  9. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:27 PM
    #9
    ryguy

    ryguy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also, the lower control arm is brand new, and im assuming the bushings are also new. Unless it is standard protocol to reinstall the old bushings.
     
  10. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:34 PM
    #10
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    That's odd

    Perhaps the bolts were not torqued correctly and that allowed for movement
     
  11. Feb 12, 2013 at 10:56 PM
    #11
    ryguy

    ryguy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It's a possibility. How thick of tabs would you weld back on if you were in my shoes?
     
  12. Feb 13, 2013 at 12:14 AM
    #12
    2TRunner

    2TRunner Don't give up here just yet

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    Torched mine out. Bad move in retro-spect.

    If you have air available. Use a 1/2 impact with needed socket. Use the 1/2 impact on the cam bolt. The trick is to fan the switch between loosen/tighten. Switch to loosen, hit the gun for 5/10 seconds, stop. Switch to tighten, hit the gun again 5/10 seconds. Do that repeatidly, even add some penetrant lube to help.

    It will knock the rust loose and should free the bolt.

    It may jack the bushing up, being careful will keep down on that.

    Your tabs sound fucked anyway.
     
  13. Feb 14, 2013 at 11:32 AM
    #13
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    The adjustment cam is not lubed from the factory. Since it runs through a metal bushing, in the control arm, they will seize eventually. Especially true in areas that salt is used on the roads.
     
  14. Feb 14, 2013 at 11:33 AM
    #14
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    I need to replace mine.
     
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