Passenger side door lock cylinder

OP, call the dealer and ask what is the cost of some FOB's and the programming of them. Don't tell them the Taco didn't come with the feature. Don't provide them with the VIN over the phone conversation.

 

That I understand. And that is the easy part. I have a contact at Toyota, and I can probably get key fobs at dealer cost and I have a friend who is a tech at Toyota and will program them for free. The question is whether or not I have everything else inside the truck to except the key fobs, i.e. receiver etc. I would be shocked, but super stoked If somehow Toyota built that truck with everything for remote entry other than just the key fobs. I guess I can just buy a key fob and try it and return it if it doesn’t work.

 

so I called the dealer and they don’t sell a separate remote fob for this truck for this year. If this truck came equipped with remote access, the door lock buttons would have been in the head of the key. The other option would’ve been a smart key for a pushbutton start.

 

The door control receiver is part of part of the Tire Pressure Monitoring System and since you have the TPMS system....

 

I don't have a license for installing security alarm systems, so I can't have access to the remote info Toyota has online, but a FOB is a FOB either with a key or separate.

 

FYI I spoke to my friend who is a Toyota field tech about the possibility of just programming a remote. He did some research and got back to me. Here is his response. Given this I will likely either live with it as is or possibly consider aftermarket such as the N2.

“According to the wiring diagram, the multiplex wiring is not in your vehicle going from the Wireless receiver to the body ECU. You also may find that the MPX-B fuse and wiring may not be going to the receiver either.
From what I see, it will not be as simple as adding a fob, which is likely why you haven’t seen that as a common solution online.”

 

It would be as simple as adding the missing wire...but what do I know.

 

Could be. It’s a little over my head without some specific instructions to follow from someone who has successfully been there before me.

 

Yeah...I'm out.

 

Hi, I'm coming into this thread really late but I just did what you had originally asked which is, I installed a key cylinder in the passenger side door of my 3rd Gen Tacoma. What you need is to buy a door lock actuator for a 2nd Gen Tacoma, P/N 69030-04030 (I found one on ebay for 50 bucks) and then buy a new 3rd Gen drivers side lock cylinder and key set, P/N 69052-04040, and the plastic cover P/N 69217-04030 (this part number is for the matte black door handle so if yours is a custom color you should research that P/N). You'll have to take the new lock cylinder to a locksmith to have it re-keyed to your key.
The issue with the 3rd Gen passenger side lock actuator is that Toyota removed the cruciform socket that accepts the connecting rod that connects the lock cylinder to the actuator. But, the 2nd Gen lock actuators are nearly identical to the 3rd Gens and they still have that cruciform socket. The 2nd Gen actuator fits the 3rd Gen doors and the connecting cables for the lock & handle as well as the wiring and plug for the electric locks are all the same. Furthermore, the 3rd Gen lock cylinder and cap are mechanically symmetric and you can buy one for the driver's side and flip it upside-down and install it in the in the passenger side door. If you do this, however, you'll notice that when upside-down, the cylinder housing has holes and a channel that are typically facing down (when on the driver's side), and installing it upside-down may expose the cylinder wafers to rain. In order to make the cylinder housing rain-proof, I covered these openings with epoxy (carefully, so as not to hinder movement of the cylinder and wafers) and drilled a weep hole on the opposite side of the cylinder housing in case water does get in through the key hole. The biggest pain in this mod is that you'll have to make your own, custom connecting rod to extend from the back of the lock cylinder to the actuator socket because they don't exist on the market. It's a bit tricky because you'll have to make an mirror image part of the driver's side lock connecting rod, with the added difficulty of turning the end that fits in the cylinder 180 degrees because the lock cylinder is now upside-down. I made mine from some 1/4" diameter stainless steel rod which I bent up as best I could (the angles are tricky but I "eyeballed" it) to get it close to mirror image of the driver's side rod, and then I made each end from a separate piece of stainless steel and tig welded them to the new rod. I understand that this part of the mod may cause some to abandon the whole idea, but even if you don't have tig welding capabilities, there are other ways to fab that connecting rod that may just involve some ingenuity and elbow grease. If you're interested, LMK and I'll post some pictures and process description.