PCV Valve Replacement

Recently changed out my PCV valve. Went ahead and purchased it at the local Toyota Dealership parts department. $11.00 for the PCV valve and $5.00 for the rubber grommet. I have an 01 Tacoma V6 3.4L. Be careful removing the old PCV valve and rubber grommet as they can break off and you don't want the pieces failing into the valve hole. Put the new valve into the grommet before you put it into the valve hole as it is a extremely tight fit, I thought that I was going to break it trying to get it into the valve hole. I finally, (out of frustration) took a blue shop cloth, double folded it a couple of times, took a rubber mallet, placed the fold shop towel over top the new PCV valve, and carefully and slowly 'tapped' it twice and it went right in. Nice and tight, even seal. Works perfectly and no man handling it.

 

I have always wondered just who this "It's" is.

 

I would recommend buying toyota OEM, I bought an off brand on ebay it looked the same but it didn't fit as well.

I also be careful removing the gormet mine crumpled and had to use curved needle nose pliars to remove some of the gormet that fell through.

GoodLuck, easy job thou.

 

AH-K... so there's two of these little bastards right, cause it's the one on the driver's side that's belchin' up oil into my throttle body - the line that reaches up over the manifold and has a dedicated port on the intake tube right before the TB.

 

Replace the grommet and PCV valve at the same time. Be careful while removing the old grommet, it can be old, dried up and cracking that the pieces don't fall inside.

 

Gotcha, see that mentioned several times. I pulled at that PCV on the passenger side when I did my plugs. Then pulled and twisted counterclockwise. Little bastard did not want to come out. Saved it for later. It looks like from what I read the passenger side receives positive pressure (vacuum) from the TB and the one on the drivers is supposed to be drawing in intake air - not belching oil into the TB, so I'm guessing the PCV is clogged.

 

Hi Everyone........ this is my first post here at Tacoma World. I just bought a 2007 Tacoma 4.0 I have flushed the radiator, did oil change, changed air filter... finally got to the PCV valve this weekend. It took some muscle to get the old one loose. It was rattling and didn't seem too dirty. I attempted to install the one I got at AutoZone which is compatible with the truck.

I didn't notice any grommet when I removed the old one. I hand threaded the new one in until it was tight and gave it a couple of turns with a socket wrench. I noticed that it didn't sit flush as the old one did. I removed it and looked at the new pcv valve very carefully and the threads are the same. However it sits out about 3 or 4 threads. I don't want to overtighten it and strip it out so I removed the new one and put the old one back in. Now I have the same problem with that one. Anyone have an idea why this is? I didn't cross thread or strip anything......... I hooked the hose back up and there is no leaking, no check engine light...... So tomorrow I'll just go to Toyota and buy an original one rather than aftermarket.

Thank You

I'm going to edit my question because I may have figured it out myself. The replacement valve is not threaded all the way up, so it can't sit flush. I never took note on the original as it looked as it was sitting flush when I pulled the hose off. I included a photo. Sorry auto mechanics and maintenance is new to me.

 

Not to be that guy, but "it's" is a contraction for "it is". And the possessive form of "it" is "its".

 

It's because this is the 1st gen section and 1st gens don't have a 4.0. So the PCV Valve you have fits the 4.0, not the 3.4. Wrong Section, head to the 2nd Gen section!

 

Sorry I just found this thread in google and some of the posts in the thread looked very relavant

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/234196-pcv-valve-replacement.html

 

thank you

 

For sure!

 

Does anyone have an opinion on how effective a working pcv system really is for clearing an average crankcase of blow-by gasses? I've seen many mention simply putting an end filter on the crankcase breather and capping the intake port.
I did come across where systems with an independent vacuum and catch can are put on racers. There is probably a lot more blow-by in high performance, high compression engines and more desire to keep the intake totally clean.
I'd like to keep the intake clean but have little faith simply installing a new pcv valve will do so. Going to the trouble of a catch can is a bit beyond the scope of this truck. Maybe if I felt there was really that much oil from it. Would I really be sacrificing anything but the environment by venting the CC breather line to outside?

 

I will go ahead and install a pcv valve and keep that end of the system intact - just alter the breather/intake side where oil seems to enter the intake pipe. There was old residue in the throttle body and where it had run down the intake pipe. It had probably never been cleaned in 17 years though.

I guess the reason I noticed this is I have a jeep that I changed the pcv after I found oil was fouling the air filter. It fouled it up again immediately. Definitely vented that one to outside.

 

Here's the reason for keeping the pcv side intact:

The more vacuum that is kept in the crankcase keeps the pressure from bulding up and blowing seals out as well making splash oiling not work the way "it's" designed to. Lots of pressure made when you move pistons up/down in a sealed environment @ 4-6ooo rpm......constant vacuum keeps the pressure and turbulence in the crankcase to a minimum. Drag cars run sealed systems with vacuum pumps for this reason...

I'm thinking that in less than WOT situations there is vacuum being applied to the CC breather hose at the intake pipe connection, making oil enter the intake pipe from "its" connection to the valve cover.

This would explain why I never found any oil at the "vented" crankcase hose after I pulled it and capped the intake port for it. Incidentally, Toyota modified this connection for the next model year '2001' by insulating the crankcase breather pipe and installing a box with baffles at the intake pipe connection - probably to limit vacuum and thermo-syphon forces on the CC breather.

 

Rit u r! To bd so many phoks don no how to writ its a sign of the tms i ges (r to much tm wastd on txtng)...

 

OK... so I'll share my experience changing the PCV valve and grommet on my 2000. First of all I just want to thank the members on this forum for the warning about the disintegrating rubber grommet. Without the mental preparedness this may have really freaked me out. As it was, I went about it with forceps and a set of small hook/pics. Still very tedious and nerve wracking thinking I was gonna drop big pieces down in the valve cover. I can see why 2nd gens. went to screw in PCV valves.

If you had a thin "exacto" blade like ones used for crafts and such you could maybe do this better by carefully cutting up thru the grommet from the inside and then lapping one side of the cut over the other with forceps to pull it out in one piece.

 

So If pieces of grommet falls inside, should I have to take valve cover off and replace seals and clean debris out of the cam?

 

I had the same issue, but lucky I was able to fish it out. Someone else can chime in.