Peforway Winch Bumper on Amazon. Anyone try it???

Spoke to my mechanic about it, he said dont worry about it ... install will be 11/1

 

The reinforcements are to keep the thin plates the mounting studs are attached to from flexing and cracking on really hard/repeated pulls - think being sunk halfway to the window in peanut butter mud where you are pushing the winch near it's limit. Most scenarios you are using a winch are not likely to require that much force to get you free.

 

Ahh. Ok, makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

 

How does the license plate set up on the bumper luck to you? I need to run a front plate.

 

A slow pull, even a hard slow pull, like your scenario isn't super likely to damage the frame/mounting points, but pulling/being pulled by the two shackle mounts at cross angles will put a lot of stress across the two vertical ties between the mounting plate "feet" and the winch/bumper base plate. Even a couple extra ribs welded in would do a lot to strengthen the bumper. But that's extra metal and extra welding, for the price, it could be worth stripping the coating and adding them in yourself if you were worried about it.

The bigger concern would be someone trying to use something like a kinetic recovery rope/strap on the front shackles. Might get away with it once or twice.

Edit- keep in mind, I have quite a "bunker mentality," always worried about the worst case.

 

It has a bracket mount included. however, depends on if you have a winch fairlead attached if it will work. May have to be hinged if so...

 

Another very good point. And another good reason to always have a snatch block, or two. I plan no keeping a fixed line that I'm able to attach both ends to each front attachment point and a snatch block between them to equalize the tension (self adjusting bridle). I also plan on re-installing my factory recovery hook, in a usable way, as a backup.

 

Be prepared to use shorter bolts or spacers from the bumper bracket to the light. I used a nut with lock washers on both sides as a spacer. Time will tell is it works, but it was kind of a PITA to get it adjusted properly. My arms were at maximum length to be able to reach behind the grill. Granted, I'm not that tall...

 

Thank you for the heads up when it comes to the install. I wonder if the BA wings will fit as well. I have been really looking at the BA and the Amazon/EBay one and it’s almost the same minus the BA logo.

 

I'll let the 3 guys I know who've cracked those plates doing exactly what I described that it's not super likely But yes, an uneven pull/torquing on it can also crack them.

 

I'd be willing to bet the BA wings would work. I looked at the installation instructions for them and they use the same mounting studs as the bumper, so the plates match up together and all are held on by the same factory nuts. I considered that myself but the wings are as much as I paid for the bumper. Hoping to find some used ones or discounted.

 

Looks awesome,
With winch, bumper and light bar, what was your total cost in this project. If you feel comfortable sharing ?

 

Bumper $336.15
Badland Apex 12k winch $480 + tax (used 20% coupon at HF!!!)
RC 20" dual row black series light $159.95 (I'd do different if I were to do it again but it looks cool..)
TOTAL $976.10ish

 

Just got mine in the mail today. Ordered on Tuesday. Really not bad at all for the cost. It’s super strong and wields aren’t the best but will for sure should hold. I’m waiting on the light bar to come in tomorrow. Thanks for you post. How stressful was the first couple of cuts? Lol

 

All the tutorials say to start your cut 20mm (3/4") from the front edge of the plastic, and to be conservative. So I started with that. Honestly, this was the most time consuming part. There are multiple factors that will determine your outcome. One is you are dealing with plastic. It's not held on to the truck very well to begin with (as most modern vehicles), so one side may be slightly different from the other (mine was). But only relative to were it sits to the frame, which is where your new bumper is going to be mounted to. Just tape, mark and start cutting. Test fit after every cut to see how it sits. But make it slightly snug to fit. You don't want to cut too much, especially on the sides where the little tabs on the outer edge of the steel bumper are. Those, I believe, are designed to keep the remaining plastic bumper in place since you've just whacked off it's lower support. The top, however, has plenty of plastic to cover the steel bumper. Just make sure that cut is nice and straight. You'll see in the pics a note about the curve in the plastic bumper that compares to the straight steel bumper. It looks kind of weird to me. So I don't know if I'd try and make that cut parallel to the truck (like I did) or to the steel bumper. However, I did end up cutting about 3/4" from the REAR of the plastic edge, not the front. Your results may vary...

 

Thank you, this is thread and post have been super helpful.

 

Ships fast doesnt it? Lol

any plans to repaint it first ? I have bedlined mine ..

ordered a license plate winch mount yesterday.

debating lightbar. I have a 20" amber dual row here to use and a switch ordered. I also like the idea of covering the lightbar hole with grill mesh , and being able to see the winch though..

 

I'm debating deleting my light bar. I miss seeing the winch drum and line. And with this bumper the light port is the best visual you have on that. And easier access to the drum freewheel switch and control switch. Besides, this particular light bar doesn't really throw further than my high beams. I'm disappointed with the performance of it.

 

I have my lightbar cutout covered with black aluminum mesh, via zipties. Would you leave the hole open or cover it with screen? I was thinking some protection be good and look good.I decided I am going to try and mount the lightbar behind the grill on that plastic shelf..

 

Just depends on if you want to get to your control box without raising your hood. At least you can see your drum and line.