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Penetrating Oils Article

Discussion in 'Product Reviews' started by DanGer, Sep 10, 2009.

  1. Sep 10, 2009 at 1:17 PM
    #1
    DanGer

    DanGer [OP] Avatar approved by 98tacomav6

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    > > Penetrating Oils Compared
    > >
    > >
    > > > >
    > > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out
    > > torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!
    > >
    > > *They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the
    > > control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
    > > "scientifically rusted" environment.*
    > >
    > > *Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
    > >
    > > None ..................... 516 pounds
    > > WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
    > > PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
    > > Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
    > > Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
    > > *ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds*
    > >
    > > *The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
    > > transmission fluid and acetone.*
    > > *Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this */one
    > > /*particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
    > > use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
    > > as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
     
  2. Sep 10, 2009 at 1:33 PM
    #2
    drew02a

    drew02a Rocking your mom's world Since 1997

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    Good to know. I've never used any of these products because I've always been skeptical that they'd work at all.


    They didn't include KY or Astroglide in their penetrating oil testing?
     
  3. Sep 10, 2009 at 1:44 PM
    #3
    Colton

    Colton Reagan/Bush '84

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    Very good to know, thanks Dan!
     
  4. Sep 10, 2009 at 1:55 PM
    #4
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    That doesn't sound 'safe' mixing chemicals. If that machine shop is an actual 'business', OSHA would go ape-shit if they knew they were mixing chemicals like that.

    I've used Kano Kroil at work (GOOD STUFF) but that stuff is hard to get a hold of. You can't get it off the shelf at auto stores like you can PB Blaster. PB Blaster all the way!! It's been a tried & true product for my for many many years.
     
  5. Sep 10, 2009 at 2:19 PM
    #5
    afd23a

    afd23a Well-Known Member

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    Too bad they didn't include Deep Creep. I'd be interested to see how it stacks up.
     
  6. Sep 10, 2009 at 4:02 PM
    #6
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    As long as it is labeled correctly and stored per the standard there is nothing wrong with mixing chemicals.
     
  7. Sep 10, 2009 at 6:43 PM
    #7
    Hootbro

    Hootbro Omnipotent

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    May have to try the ATF-Acetone mix. Kroil and Mouse Milk has done me fine over the years though.
     
  8. Sep 11, 2009 at 4:13 AM
    #8
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    I doubt that....

    How would OSHA allow you to mix chemicals when you can't even throw chemically soiled rags together in the trash? They have to be in special fire proof containers/barrels.
     
  9. Sep 11, 2009 at 5:24 AM
    #9
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Thor

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    The combustable liquids also have to be in special containers.

    They even have a standard for determining the flashpoint of mixed chemicals.

    If it is not kept for 30 days it doesn't need to be in a special container/tank.

     
  10. Sep 11, 2009 at 6:54 AM
    #10
    mpgnc64

    mpgnc64 Well-Known Member

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    We usually use no2 diesel in a spray bottle.
     
  11. Sep 12, 2009 at 5:04 PM
    #11
    george3

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    Hit with a Hammer. A guy at work asked me to help him with a big rusted nut on a union. We grabbed some wrenches, 2', 3', 4' and some PB Blaster sprayed it down, put two wrenches on it, one of us backed it up, the other did the lefty lucy thing. Nothing. I soaked it again and started hitting it around with a lump hammer, soaked it, hit it etc. Soon the PB was going down into the threads. Tried the wrenches again, it turned easy, finished up with channel locks. Hit with a Hammer.
     
  12. Sep 27, 2009 at 8:02 AM
    #12
    george3

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  13. Oct 10, 2009 at 9:56 AM
    #13
    Warren Thompson

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    Wish I knew this a few weeks ago. I was trying to break off my rear brake drums with penetrating fluid. I used WD-40, and gave up after about 3 hours of letting it "penetrate". I should have done the home brew!!! Now I will know. Thanks for the tip.
     
  14. Oct 10, 2009 at 10:08 AM
    #14
    otter

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    Huh, interesting. I've always used PB but I'm going to have to try out this ATF/acetone mix. Never seen Kroil before.
     
  15. Feb 22, 2010 at 9:02 AM
    #15
    phorsfi

    phorsfi New Member

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    I find just heating it u real hot and then letting it cool completely will break the rust bond and allow you to spin a nut or bolt out pretty easy...;)
     
  16. Feb 22, 2010 at 3:46 PM
    #16
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Have a spray bottle of water, onnce it gets real hot spray it. If it's still give you a hard time, repeat. Two or three times is all it take on real rusty nuts and bolts. The expansion and contraction breaks the rust.

     
  17. Feb 23, 2010 at 10:11 PM
    #17
    kumaWRX

    kumaWRX Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I wish they tested that also as well as In-Force from BG Products. We only use those two at work. We used to use Kroil (which actually works better than Deep Creep) but it was getting too expensive but awesome nonetheless.
     
  18. Feb 24, 2010 at 7:48 AM
    #18
    glandnut

    glandnut Grease Monkey

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    Brake fluid works best for me, and I can count the times on two fingers it hasn't.. My grandpa taught me to keep a little eye dropper full in my toolbox when I started wrenching on old VW's in my early teens. If it doesn't work, it was gonna break anyway. Just don't let it get on your paint!
     
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