PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Brakes got a clean bill of health today, but my mechanic cleaned the rotors just to be safe; We both believe that some tire shine got on the rotors when I took it through the car wash last week. The bad news is that my truck is in fact "using" oil, to the tune of a quart every 3,000-3,500 miles...

On the recommendation of Bill (@Plain Jane Taco) and another member, I will be switching to 5W-30 next oil change!

 

I'll take it of your hands.

 

What sucks is that I don't live anywhere near NOLA!

I did visit once almost eight years ago though, and loved it!

 

Glad the brakes checked out, that tire shine stuff could definitely be a culprit. How many miles has it been since your last oil change, you were gonna go with the recommended 5K changes right?

 

A little over 3,500 miles since my last change, and yes...

 

5W-30 sounds like a good choice for your truck.

 

Come back and get a bigger gator, it can go in your truck bed.

 

I actually did buy a gator head while I was there! And also, while we did stay in New Orleans, these pictures were actually taken on an airboat tour in Lafitte...

 

You could do a compression test.
Examine the results, if low compression is found, add oil into the cylinder and retest.
If the compression goes up, typically this indicates worn rings.

There have been a few cases I’ve heard of with the 2.7 using oil.
Most of the time I’ve seen it with high mileage engines.
200k+ miles. A lot of people around me seem to use the single cab 2.7 truck as a “farm utility” vehicle.

I’d personally start with the PCV, because it is easy.

FWIW, I had an 05’ PreRunner. I pretty sure mine did not use 0-20 or synthetic.
But it’s been 10 years since I had it.

 

Thicker oil will have less piston blow-by. The high mileage variety has conditioners that swell valve seals and tighten things up so less oil gets by. Thin oil also burns off more easily.

 

I talked to my mechanic about that, and he talked me out of it; My mechanic has been doing what he does since the 1970s and can tell if a vehicle is running right just by listening to it. He also said that the engine did not throw any codes.

My truck shows some signs of age and is approaching 114K miles, but it is a lovingly maintained daily driver; I do use my truck as it was intended to be used, but it's primarily used for driving to work and car shows.

My owner's manual calls for 0W-20 semi-synthetic; @Plain Jane Taco says that Toyota recommended 5W-30 in pre-2009 or so 2.7L Tacos.

 

I have seen the 3rz have less oil consumption when 10w-40 was used.
And this was on an engine with well over 200k. I’m not at all suggesting this.
Honestly I’m kind of surprised you have oil consumption at 114k.
It’s not unheard of, it just unusual in my experience.
Then again, I haven’t run light weight synthetic oils much myself.

 

Your mechanic is your typical old dude stuck in the past.

There were no changes made to the '09+ engines. The 0/20 was just recommended for slightly better fuel economy

 

New Trane
air-conditioner and gas furnace getting installed at work today!

 

The 30+ year old Whirlpool unit it replaced (at least the furnace, anyway; A/C unit is still up on the roof as of this post because the crane hasn’t arrived yet)...

 

Tried to take the Whirlpool emblem from the furnace, but that didn’t go so well...

 

My fuel economy sucks unless I’m to doing 55-65 on the highway with no stopping anyway; How hard is it do a compression test myself. No way in hell I’m paying a mechanic $200!

 

Damn delicate emblems!

 

You can probably get a loaner compression tester from Autozone for free. If not, the parts/kit is probably $35. If you can change spark plugs, you can do a compression test.

 

Also, Bill, you’re lucky enough to live in a state with no emissions testing or safety inspections; My dad’s mechanic who talked me out of doing a compression test charges out the ass for both emissions and safety...

By comparison, Thompson Toyota (closest dealer to my house) charges $60 for an emissions test, claims to waive the safety inspection fee of $20, and offers a free loaner car for up to 24 hours if you need it (in addition to a courtesy shuttle if you don’t).

My “new” mechanic Pete (who I typically go to but who hasn’t inspected my truck yet) does not offer a loaner car obviously , but only charges $50 for emissions and safety.

My dad’s mechanic who I went to yesterday charges like $70 or $80 for both emissions and safety and of course does not have the resources to offer a loaner.