PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

No it will NOT.
I know this because we did the same thing to our newer (then) oven. It is the type of oven that has the heating elements (I am guessing this is an electric oven) buried below the oven cavity. once that stuff is melted on there i there is no getting it off.
If one looks at and reads (we did not) the instructions and cautions that came with the oven when new, I am betting it says DO NOT USE FOIL in this oven. My wife used the old time trick to line the bottom of our oven to make spill overs easy to clean. Then one time we used the broil function to cook something AKA -HOT AS THEY GET. That foil fused itself to the bottom of the stove. The manufacturer worked with us (dummies) and we wound up replacing the oven/stove.
Good luck with this --you'll need it!!

 

If there is a heating element under that surface, like markmizz suggested, it may be relatively easy to remove and replace. If the oven is new-ish, parts should be available through the dealer of that oven manufacturer.

 

Duct tape. Put strips over it and pull it off. (Cold oven of course)

 

I am really starting to get fed up with various groups I’m a part of on Facebook; So many rules!

 

You think my truck needs a ring job? My mechanic previously quoted me close to five grand, which translates to “that’s a lot of work and I really don’t feel like doing it”...

 

You don’t think it needs a ring job?

 

Why is my truck using oil?!?!

 

My brother bought one of the mid 1980s small Blazers right when they were introduced.I'm thinking 1984? His never even made it home from the dealership the day he picked it up!

He turns in his trade in and signs off on all of the paperwork then gets in to drive home his brand new downsized Blazer and leaves for the roughly 4 mile drive home. Leaving the dealership there's a stop sign at the end of the lane before you turn onto a pretty busy 4 lane heading west. Brother comes to a stop then when traffic is clear pulls out onto the road. Notices almost immediately the vehicle feels like it's plowing the front end. Feels like the front wheels are dragging and it smells hot with little to no power. He has to travel about 2 miles to a spot where he can safely turn and head back to the dealership. Manages to make it back and the smell of something very hot is almost overpowering. Small plastic wheel covers on both front wheels are basically melting and running down the wheels. Gets service manager immediately. Brand new vehicle has a bad proportioning valve and master cylinder and the first time he came to a full stop it locked the front brakes! They replaced master cylinder, proportioning valve, calipers, rotors, wheels, tires, and center caps to make sure it was fixed and gave him a loaner car for a week. Sadly this turned out to be only the first in a very long list of things to go wrong with this vehicle.

 

2012 Mustang GT.
Great engine in a very much less than average car. Bought new, had most of front suspension replaced, (luckily under warranty) and while they were doing that work, they informed me that they put in the incorrect manual transmission fluid from the factory...
Sure, go ahead and change it I said. I drove it from the Ford dealer straight to the Toyota dealer and traded for a new Sienna for the wife. Car had 4k miles on it. Cheap interior, tons of squeaks and rattles that no one could figure out, and of course, shifted like crap. Looked fantastic though! No trust with Ford cars anymore. Trucks may be different.

 

2000 Jeep WJ, constant electrical gremlins. Could never fix some EVAP code that would cause it to stall at a stop. Brakes were horrible for some reason that generation had problems warping rotors

 

1984 VW Rabbit GTI...

Super fast and fun to drive, but what a horrible POS...

Within two years of ownership (it was 4 y/o at the time of purchase) had to to repair or replace:

-Speedo unit
-Front wheel bearings
-Timing belt tensioner (almost forgot that one...happened on way from No Fla to So Fla...had to leave it in Orlando area as it sounded like it was throwing a rod)
-Alternator (broke down on a road trip from So Fla to Charleston SC)
-Water pump
-Radiator
-Thermostat

Last three were due to an overheating problem that never went away...eventually traded it in (at 2 yrs) before it melted down.

Have vowed to never own a VW or the ilk (Audi) ever again. Also talked my niece out of buying a Jetta and all I did was show her the (horrific) reliability specs from Consumer Reports.

 

Oh yeah I forgot about the Jetta my sister in law had one for a couple years she thought it was “so cute” but that thing was trash. I don’t think it ever really ran right the entire time she had it.

 

1976 super beetle I parted together from other VWs. Junior high/highschool project car. She was a beauty cosmetically but a total rust bucket. Early '90/'91...speeding down IH45 in Houston headed to night shift at UPS. Raining cats and dogs and take Parker/Yale exit. Exit had low spot full of water. Hit it so hard the entire front floorboard under my feet blew out. Week later rear ended in the very same spot in that very same car that would not die. Died that evening though.

Most awesome car was an old Ford falcon owned by my uncle. Not a gear head here but know fast. Early 80s...my uncle took me and my cousin for a ride. He said I'll give one of you a crisp $5 bill if you can get it off the dashboard when we take off. We said sure as we chuckled how easy it was going to be. We learned about g forces that day. My cousin ended up getting it when he got in highschool. It was a show stopper and a beautiful car. Think it's sitting in a barn somewhere now in east Texas after he sold.

 

I had one on the 1996 Pathfinder I had before my Taco...

My dad’s mechanic talked me out of getting a K&N because he says that the oils in the filter can mess with the MAF sensor, but one of my supervisors who is a lifelong gearhead said that such a filter should be fine; He also says that Toyota OEM filters are generally very restrictive.

 

I've never been a fan. The filter is there to catch crap before it enters the engine...for any vehicle, and especially a truck that may be used under less than ideal conditions, I'd rather it be too restrictive than not restrictive enough. Longevity is my primary concern, and that's why I stick with the OEM style filter. When it gets dirty, I chuck it and replace it with a new one.

What is your motivation for the K&N? The reusable part? The perceived performance gain? It's not like these are high performance vehicles where you are trying to squeeze out every last HP, but if that's important to you, then by all means give it a whirl.

I'm sure this discussion will be about as fruitful as asking what brand of oil to use. Lots of different opinions on what works best, with very little in the way of facts on either side. Do whatever helps you sleep better at night.

 

Don't do it, not worth the risk or the price. If you want a reusable filter get a dry/non-oiled one but nothing filters better than the paper disposable filters

 

Paper all the way. Your motor was designed to use a paper filter and any extra air flow you get out of a K&N will just be negated by the computer adjusting back to the stock parameters anyway. I would take long term reliability over less filtration of a K&N and potentially reduced motor life.

 

This. the OEM paper filter is going to filter the best. Also it offers ZERO restriction on an NA'd motor.

 

I ran an aFe Pro Dry filter for about a year but went back to paper ones after seeing how much fine dirt got behind it in the intake tube. I don't buy the most expensive paper ones, usually whatever's cheapest at Pep Boys, but replace it every couple oil changes. Don't see any fine dirt getting past those



FWIW I had an oiled K&N on my first Tacoma several years ago and it ruined my MAF sensor, knowing 19 year old me I probably over oiled the thing but its just not worth the risk imo. MAFs on these trucks aren't cheap

 

I use the AFE Pro Dry . No problem