PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Yup, I just get fram, Amazon cheapo or purolator paper filters and replace them evrey oil change and check them after each wheeling trip and change as needed. 200k+ and zero MAF issues.

 

Nothing wrong with K&N filters , it's all about how you oil the filter . The first mistake people do is over oil them by saturating the filter element until it's dripping in oil . You don't need to soak the filter , just lightly fog it is all you need

Next is properly letting it air dry for at least 24 hrs before installing . Another trick I've learned over the years is having (2) filters one cleaned ready to use and one installed on your vehicle . This way you don't have downtime

Yet another trick I've learned is using their Filter sock over the filter . This increases the filtering allowing cleaner air into your motor

Oh and I've been using K&N Filters for over 40 years !!!!

 

Couldn't agree more on staying away from the K&N or any oiled filter. Gains are non existent on a stock motor and you're opening up yourself for potential MAF problems.

 

I even trust using a K&N filter on my new $17k race motor and I live in the Desert with sand particles constantly floating in the air from the gusty Desert winds

 

Bobistheoilguy.com did a quasi-scientific evaluation of a K&N filter in a Miata. He also flowed it on a test bench and in each setup, compared it to an OEM paper filter and some others. He used new, factory oiled K&N filter straight out of the package irrc.

He found that while the K&N did allow for a lower pressure drop across the filter, the amount was small and probably only beyond negligible at very high flow rates/filter area that N/A engines would not be capable of producing. This may vary somewhat from vehicle to vehicle, but the engineers that designed the intake system didn't give up engine efficiency for a smaller, "restrictive" filter, as your gearhead buddy claims. They make every effort to maximize efficiency vs cost and there are plenty of larger off the shelf filters that they could have packaged into the intake if it needed it.

The testing also found that some huge amount more dirt, percentage wise, was allowed into the engine. I don't remember the numbers but a couple hundred percent more by weight comes to mind. I'll post a link if I can find it.

Lastly, even with a newly opened, factory oiled filter, the MAF was coated in oil after use.

On a run of the mill, EFI engine a K&N filter is a gimmick that does nothing good.

Here is a link to that - https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filtration-test/

I was going by memory so I want accurate about a flow bench being used, instead, an on the vehicle manometer was setup. Also, I remember seeing the pictures of the MAF and the downstream backup filter that caught the dirt getting by, though the MAF appears to not have been part of this test so maybe I am mixing up tests. In any case, it's all there at the link.

 

I had one for a while....and then went back to stock. 0 gains and very overpriced for what you get with our trucks.

 

K&M Filters are snake oil.... if you really have money to burn, instead of buying a K&N filter, I’d recommend burning the money. You’ll get more benefit and enjoyment that way.

 

Over oiling and not allowing the filter to cure (letting the oil soak in) for at least 12 hours will cause MAF issues. I've been running K&N filters in my vehicles for 30+ years without any issues and all of those vehicles had well over 200,000 miles on them before moving on to the next vehicle. Some were cold air intake cone filters, but have used the drop in style for the last 3 vehicles. IMO the best practice is to clean it, allow to completly air dry, oil it and then set the filter aside for a day before putting it back in the vehicle. During this time I put in a stock filter so the vehicle can be driven. BTW - just like most Toyota OEM parts the stock air filter is fine.
Filters, motor oil and tires... everyone has their opinions.

I also ride dirt bikes and use the same process. Clean it, oil it and let it stand (cure) before putting it back in the bike. Most riders (myself included) will rotate a second filter that's ready to replace the one that was just cleaned and oiled.

 

Honestly - not needed. Save your money.

 

Don’t do it. You won’t notice any gains in power but will allow more dirt entry to motor.

 

Car hack: put the k&n sticker in the window but run oem filter. All the performance gain, none of the MAF failure!

 

I've had multiple K&N filters on multiple tacomas. After 80k miles, I inspected the MAF and it had zero oil on it and it was functioning fine. They give you better throttle response and power. That's my 2 cents.

anyone who says they didn't notice a power increase is either driving automatic granny transmission or didn't actually give the K&N a shot. look at the dynos on their freaking website

 

No they are garbage

 

This is exactly what I do on multiple vehicles. I’ve never had any issues.

 

There you go !!! Between @BlkDakDave and myself with over 70 plus years of experience with excellent results using K&N filters . This shows you there's nothing wrong with K&N filters

 

and then you woke up.....

 

I'm not sure I'd go that far. For me, you just summarized why not to use one.

1. Worry about over oiling. If it isn't enough, the filter doesn't filter properly, and if it is too much, you end up with oil coated MAF sensor wires.
2. In order to not over oil, you recommend leaving it sit for 12-24 hours before putting it in service
3. While you wait, you can either temporarily run a paper filter, or...
4. Order a second K&N so you can swap it in
5. In order for it to filter well enough, you run a separate filter sock over it (which somewhat negates the selling point of a higher flowing air filter, and is another $25-30)

The most recent paper filter I ordered was $11 shipped to my door (Amazon). The K&N panel filter is $47 (also Amazon). Looks like the K&N service kit is about $11, but not sure how often you need to order a new one. I don't want the down time, so I'd either need to hang on to my old paper filter, or order another K&N panel filter. Neither is as convenient as just swapping in a new paper filter and being done with it.

So I can order 4-5 paper filters for each K&N + service kit I'd have to buy just to break even. So far, I've replaced my engine air filter about 5 times over the past 150k miles (13 years) I've owned my truck. I'd just now be breaking even, and not even close if I was sitting on two K&Ns that I was swapping back and forth. All that for the possibility of oil-coated MAF sensor wires, which is a known and well-documented issue with any oiled air filter media.

For me, the return on investment just isn't there. Eventually you'd break even from the reuse standpoint, but you'd have to own your truck a LONG time to recoup that initial outlay.

It sounds like K&N is making out pretty well though.

 

I have 71+ years of negative experience with K&N filters, so I win!!

 

Ever watch Motortrend's Engine Masters episode #27 " Air filter challenge with Dave Freiburger ,Steve Dulcich and Steve Brul'e

They proved that K&N filters are very good filters

 

I put one a 1998 F150. Not because I expected performance gains, but on that truck a paper filter was around $20 and at the time that was expensive. I paid $50 for the K&N and never had to buy another. Just cleaned it and put it back in. I never had any negative issues. No gains in performance either.

It was in the truck when I traded it, but I'd not do it again. If you look closely at their info you only see gains in performance with engine speeds in the 5000-6000 rpm range. I'm sure for a guy building a car to race at the local dirt track that extra 1-2 mph might mean something. Not worth the money to me.