PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

had one on my ranger and I over oiled the shit out of it but it sure filtered way better than the stock air box.

 

I don't think so either

 

After your next oil change you can verify where the level is starting at and follow along over time to see if you are burning any.

 

Since your truck ended up overfilled last time it might just be as simple as misreading the dipstick. After the next change you can verify the actual level and then check it the exact same way over time just to see exactly what is going on.

 

I had MAF issues after I over oiled mines in my Celica. Never went back to oiled filters and stuck with OEM or dry type filters (AEM)

 

Sounds like an electronic version of a Home Owners Association, lol.

 

The thing about opinions is that, while everyone is entitled to have one, most of them are wrong.

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

This topic has been beaten to death and then some all over the internet. K&N makes hp claims but is very vague about how they actually test. They do show dyno plots, with some condition data, but they don't show dyno models. They also say that they use two different dyno models, both chassis type. Do they use one for OEM and one for K&N? Do they test new vs new? One thing that they don't show data for is filtering efficiency vs OEM. A good OEM filter should be in the 99+% range for it's entire life.

 

Gotta love a good thread where both sides of the argument are heated about their position.

I run a K&N. One day I got sick of buying paper filters so I ran one in my old Colorado, no problems for 100K miles (related to the filer anyway ). I've run one in my Tacoma for 45K miles without issue. I have had to significantly cut back on how much I oil the thing (my bad), but even when I over-oiled in the past, MAF and throttle body stay pretty clean.

I doubt there's any HORSPRW gains or anything, but its is nice to be able to clean it every oil change for cheaper than a new filter. Its definitely paid for itself by now.

 

I run a K&N drop in filter in mine and I clean my MAF every oil change. No issues.

 

WTF...why? AFE ProDry and I clean my MAF every 30K part of my routine maintenance.

 

Preventative maintenance. Doesn't hurt anything.

 

We’ll I guess I’m not the only one who does crazy things. I syphon my PS fluid every oil change, lol.

 

If you aren't upgrading the whole intake to get the cool intake noises (vroom vroom) there is literally no reason to waste money on a performance filter. That said I've used K&N and AFE filters on my aftermarket "cold air" intakes for over 10 years with absolutely zero issues. Currently I have a HPS intake on my Tacoma.
My only complaint are the intake kits that don't have a sealed air box. Most modern cars already have a cold air intake stock and without the sealed air box you mostly pickup hot engine bay air and any dirt that happens to be floating around your bay gets sucked into the filter too.

 

Just to throw some more gas on the argument..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJ3L-E-ufYo

 

I just did, and it did nothing of the sort.

The conclusion they reached was that it was more about the air filter housing design on that particular engine than the filter media itself. That's why the "best" in that test was a velocity stack with no filter whatsoever on top. That's not unexpected given that it's a carb'd setup. They proved that even further when they took the 14x3 K&N round filter used in the 7th place spot and just taped off the outer ring, forcing the air to only come in through the top. That netted a 3.1 HP gain, no other changes (same filter media and housing design).



The closest thing to an actual apples to apples comparison when it comes to the filter media was with the 10th spot Fram 14x3 round paper filter vs. the 7th place spot, which appeared to be the same design, but with the K&N filter instead of paper. That netted a 3.5 HP gain. On a 750 HP engine. That's nothing.

Not to mention no talk of long term reliability, other than "don't run an open stack unless you want to change your oil a lot" - this was simply a "what didn't choke this engine combo" on a nearly 500 cubic inch V-8.

 

I don't see it as crazy. I've had poor mpg's due to the maf being coated in oil so I just always make sure it's clean to avoid said issue.

 

If it’s causing you problems just go back to a regular air filter or get a dry reusable.

 

As long as everything is clean there's no issue.

 

Eliminate the issues for good. If I had to clean the maf that often I would of ditched the k&n along time ago. Have you cleaned the throttle body before?

 

The quantity of grapevine information and logic here is astounding