PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

You guys like Pepsi or Coke?

 

Lol, cant tell if that last part is sarcastic or not, but yes a manufactuers "dyno" numbers will always be accurate.

Have you ever looked at the stock Tacoma air intake? It sucks air in from the wheel well right above the tire, outside the engine compartment. Adding a "cold air intake" either sealed or not, inside the engine bay would be a step backwards if you were looking for performance.

I think comparing the horsepower gains on a 700+hp or 500ci crate race motor and then juxtaposing them onto a toyota tacoma are kind of crazy. Two totally differnt applications and so many other different factors affecting that negliable power gain.

 

OP, (if you're still here):

K&N/oiled filters are fine investments if you're going to own it long enough to offset the cost in paper filters. They flow more when clean but are out-performed soon after that. I've used them for that reason - and once you get the recharge kit and multiple filters for all your vehicles, its nice to be able to rejuvenate them all at once... for like <$5 of liquid.

The MAF will read whatever air is ingested and inject the appropriate fuel; it is not a zero-sum game as somebody else stated. More restriction will decrease Volumetric Efficiency (VE) thus affecting power and BSFC (read: "fuel economy"), but not to a noticeable degree.

As somebody else stated, the way the air enters the intake is much more important (such as via velocity stack - an exponential taper) so you'd be better off finding a filter with one integrated. I forget which company does this, but they have flow figures to back it up.

Some toilet reading for you: https://dieseliq.com/aftermarket-air-filters

The sock's only purpose is providing a hydrophobic barrier. That's why it makes sense for yours, since its in the corner where water will seep through the hood cracks.

 

It picks up from a small hole in the quarter panel not directly from the wheel well vs the whole front of the car which is open to whatever is floating around.
I've had two other cars with the air intake in pretty much the same location that I put aftermarket "cold air" intakes on. After 150,000 miles between the two, one with open air filter vs with a sealed box, I noticed the filter without an air box had to be cleaned after less than 10k miles vs with an air box I could get closer to 15k before cleaning.

It's not about HP gains, it's about vroom vroom noises.

 

The element is NOT the problem --it is the "fusion process" by the heat that has ruined the oven cavity itself. I also thought I could take on replacing the whole oven cavity -problem was - the cavity was not available as a part that a "consumer" could order. said the MFR.
"we can't sell that part" to you as it would not be "possible" for a consumer (regardless of their technical abilities) to take on this task.

Also to the other poster about using tape --you have no idea how well this tin foil will fuse to the oven coating after it has been melted on with the temps of a oven on the broil setting.

 

Yeah, I do. My wife, (who doesnt need a user manual) melted foil on our oven bottom shortly after we bought it. Granted, the tape just got the big chunks off; the rest, I think we soaked in simple green and scoured it with a nylon pad, then ran a self clean. The oven is perma-scarred though. Nothing gets that shit off totally.

 

You clean the MAF every oil change and risk damaging it when you don’t actually need to clean it unless there’s an issue. Lol

.....and the K&N actually causing the oil buildup on the MAF. So you’re creating your own problems and think it’s fine. Lol

 

Not to mention that a 3hp "gain" on a 700+hp engine is way inside the dyno margin of error. Several runs, back to back, with the same conditions, will likely result in more than a 3hp delta in the results.

 

I wasn't talking about replacing the element, I was talking about replacing the surface that the foil melted on. Many (most?) ovens with an element under the lower surface have a bottom panel that is removable. My previous electric oven did and my current gas one does, too. Going to the MFR for parts is the first mistake you made. You have to go through a dealer or an appliance repair place that has the ability to order from the MFR. Just like with a auto, you can't go directly to Toyota for parts, you go through a dealer or parts supplier. Also, cheap appliances are made cheaply and without the provisions for repair or maintenance. Heck, even some expensive appliances are made cheaply and without repairs in mind.

The oven coating is used specifically because it is not porous and able to withstand very high temps. The bond of the aluminum should be mechanical, not chemical.

 

Like I mentioned previously ....
If you watch Motor trend's Engine Masters episode #27 " Air filter challenge " with Dave Freiburger , Steve Dulcich and Steve Brul'e

You'll be surprised what a K&N filter can support

 

No,waste of money.

 

Cherry Coke.

 

Vanilla Coke

 

@Greenedmc

I used to have a Coke problem, but then I switched to Pepsi; It just goes through the straw so much easier...

 

I just wanted to sub to this. I have an AFE Pro dry, I cleaned it yesterday and it’s drying now. I just hope it’s filtering as well as the paper filters do, I’ve been using it a while.

 

Jolt Cola or Surge

 

When I used to drive trucks and stay awake I had a large Monster Energy drink followed by Mtn Dew Code red

 

When you get to go you will love it. Gotta go to the cliffs of Mohr Dingle Kilkey. Just driving you see remnants of castles. People are wonderful.

 

I used Monster to get through the 9-hour Saturday shifts when I was detailing cars at a dealership; I DO NOT MISS THAT SHITTY JOB!