PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

My desire is to have a Tacoma like no other.

I have a base model 2010 regular cab 2WD with 2.7L and automatic. As many people know, the 2nd gen Tacos came with a lot of standard features. My Tacoma's only options are A/C, sliding rear window, and auto tranny.

Having rollup windows doesn't bother me most of the time, but it becomes annoying if I need to roll down the passenger window while driving. Even when I am not driving it becomes very annoying because I have to lean across the cab and roll down the window.

I know there are power window (and separate power door lock) kits for just about every vehicle, but I would like my truck to look stock.

Will door panels from an extra cab or crew cab with power windows and locks fit my truck? If not, could they be easily modified to fit?

As for wanting to install power locks, I figure why not go all out?

Again, my primary reasons for doing this are convenience and having a "loaded" regular cab Tacoma.

 

You can find them cheap on eBay or even on TW. Here is one for $50 shipped.

Installing is very easy. Complete instructions here.

 

I bought the stalk from a Toyota dealer on line / oem. Was about $100?? - I think. I hesitated to start messing with the truck but I missed the interval wipers... When I did it (15 Mins Max) I kicked myself for waiting .... go for it! I love mine now!

 

I'd get some more info... perhaps the junkyard so they can cross reference the model doors that will fit. Then I'd just paint/ swap the doors and then do the internal wiring changes. SO I think you would have to set up wiring and switches for the p Windows, p locks, p mirrors and possibly heated mirrors. Sounds like a lot of work? Alternatively swap the guts and wiring - and ensure the windows track/slide and work ok - this would be the hardest thing to me - window adjustment.

 

Pioneer makes a wedge shaped truck box for their shallow mount subs that looks like it would easily fit behind the seats in an RC: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Accessories/Sub-Enclosures-and-Grilles/UD-SW250T

Get out a tape measure and see how much space you have. Looking at some images of the space behind the seats of regular cab tacomas, you might be able to fit their pre-loaded enclosure and save some money: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SWX2502

I just picked one of these up for my Access cab for $115, perfect fit for behind the drivers seat in my seating position. Haven't hooked it up yet as I still need to build a patch-in harness to install the LOC and amp. If you flip it on it's side, you might be able to fit that behind your seat as well.

 

Bought this part number 84652-04141 used on ebay for 65 shipped. It was form an 09 camry fits perfect. Took like 15-20 min to install.

 

I know a number of vehicles have a WOT switch that cuts off the compressor when you floor it. I'd assume it is to put all the power to the ground, because obviously if you are flooring it, you need to get somewhere quickly

 

Both.

I'll head out for work in the morning and it's 70 or below but it is so wet that it feels like it's 80.

AC is on until I get too cold, then I'll cycle it off and on until I get to work.

 

Please do not do this. You don't know if it is low or how low it is.

Those cans come with a "stop leak" that hardens when exposed to air... but doesn't always (doesn't usually) seal any actual leaks. But what it DOES do is if your system is ever opened up for service (maybe an accident that damaged the condensor coil up front), the stuff will turn into a goo and ruin all of your components. Now a simple $200 job turns into $2500+ for every component in the system.

Also, the gauges on those cans only measure the low pressure side of the system. Contrary to common belief, more R134 does NOT mean that the system will work better. The opposite is actually true. The system cools best when it is discharged to the point of being just above tripping the low pressure sensor switch... but you don't want to run it there because the pressure varies with ambient temperature.

The ONLY proper way to check and "top off" a system is with a proper manifold that shows the low and high pressure readings, accurate temperature readings of ambient air in front of the condensor and cool air at the evaporator, and the manufacturer's table indicating what the pressure should be for those temperatures.

 

There ya go... Nothing wrong with the system

 

If you don't live in Florida you have no idea what humidity is, just sayin.

 

X2

 

Tested my ac the other day; thought it was 'under-performing':
Results:
At Idle in driveway, 82 deg outside temp, low humidity, truck/dashboard in sunshine during test, vehicle already cooled driving home
Noticed that humidity was so low, not much condensation drip
Used temp probe in either center outlet:
low fan: 44 deg, sometimes short time at 42 then back to 44.
medium lo: 44-45
medium hi: 45
hi: 48

----
Have to test when temp/humidity goes up and maybe at speed.
As near as can tell, this is normal;
Clutch is cycling on/off on regular basis even when fan is on high
High pressure pipe fm compressor to condensor (near battery) is very hot,
small hi pressure pipe from condensor to evaporator (passenger side firewall) is very warm
large low pressure pipe leading back fm firewall to compressor is very cold/dripping a bit.

 

I previously thought 4-banger pickup trucks were underpowered, but I've had my Taco for a little over 6 years and I've been impressed. It has almost 160 horsepower and I've had it up to 100 MPH, but I'd like to give it a little extra "grunt."

My first choice was a K&N intake kit, but due to emissions laws in the tree-hugging commonwealth I live in (Pennsylvania), the one with the highest horsepower increase is not street legal here. I might just suck it up and buy the lower horsepower one, but what I'd like to do is add a high-performance exhaust system. Companies like Banks and Borla do not make exhaust systems for the 2.7L Tacoma. I'm wondering if anybody knows of any lesser-known companies that make exhausts and other performance parts for the 2.7L?

UPDATE: Found out that none of the intake kits are emissions-complient in the tree-hugging, alcohol-controlling, overly-strict Commonwealth of Pennsylvania...

 

Switch your 2.7L for the 4.0L

But seriously, there aint a whole lot that can be done cheap. Your best bet would be the Supercharger.. but that aint cheap

 

I saw a SEMA custom Tacoma that had a 5.7L V8 from a Tundra crammed under the hood. I'd love to do that to my Tacoma!

 

pass me the seeds to your money tree so i can LT and 4x4 convert my rig lol

 

I have a 2.7L auto 2WD Tacoma, and I read somewhere (either in the owner's manual, the back bumper, or on an info sticker somewhere on the truck) that my truck is rated to tow up to 3,500 pounds. Don't know if that is how much weight the truck can tow, or is that is the gross combined weight rating. My dad has an 18-foot Larson inboard/outboard boat that he currently tows with his Honda Pilot. The boat and trailer combined weigh about 3,100 pounds. The Pilot is rated to tow 4,500 pounds.

He wanted to put a trailer hitch on the Tacoma and use it as a short distance tow vehicle, but I was afraid that pushing a 4-cylinder to its towing limits would cause damage. There is a guy in my area who works as a landscaper, and he drives a Tacoma like mine (same color and everything), though it is an older model (2005-2008 since it doesn't have the revised stereo with the AUX input). He tows a zero-turn riding mower on a single-axle trailer with his Taco). I have no doubts that my truck could tow a small Jon-boat or a jet ski, but I was wondering if anyone knew the "safe zone" for towing with a 2.7L Taco.

Can a transmission oil cooler be installed on a 2.7L/auto?

 

LC Engineering makes a 4 cyl. header kit thats epa ok, I think that and a low restriction exhaust and the intake would be a nice improvement.

 

Nothing short of FI will make it feel like more motor than it is.