Performance Testing

2020 is350 is listed at 311hp
The rav4 and sienna van is 296 I think

 

i was referring to I4................

 

Dude this is not a youtube advertising site for ad clicks. Good write up but the reason nobody has shown up in a Tacoma is because... nobody really cares. If I want to go fast for Tacoma money I will get a sports car. If I want to go fast for a bit more you can get a used Hellcat for around $60K. You are passionate I will give you that.

 

They (Toyota) detuned the 3.5 from the Lexus models to gain lowend torque. Which is needed for a truck.

 

But the Lexus makes more tq at the same rpms.

 

OP, I appreciate the work you shared with us. I have one point of constructive criticism. I think the post would be more approachable if you either replaced the abbreviations with the full name or added a legend at the bottom giving them definitions.

EDIT: it also was not clear to me until after reading the whole thread whether you were tuning the ECU or only adding aftermarket mechanical parts. Did you use vftuner? Did you start with a stock tune or one already available from ovtune or someone else?

 

You have to work on that 60' time if you want to go faster , try and get down into the 1.9x's or even better get into the 1.8x's


Those Dragy's are nice , I've got one I use for my Camaro

Also FYI ... every 200lbs removed is worth a tenth ( faster in the quarter or eighth mile )

 

Because that's where the Toyota engineers programmed his taco to operate...

I agree its not a good place to be. That's why so many are interested in tuning the transmission to move down a gear or two.

 

OP awesome post, love to see this kind of stuff.

 

Road Dog,

No issues on driving lessons, lol. But I’m not in that 1100-1200 rpm range all the time, just a statement that is at the “peak” of its worst stutter/misfiring or whatever label we put on it.

Most of my driving is a mix of back country roads where speed limits are 35-60 MPH. So my rpm’s are mostly 1500-1700 range. But if behind traffic and during braking and speeding back up or simply feathering gas to keep spacing I’m in low rpms a lot and experienced this characteristic of the 3G Taco.

 

Tech708cc,

I only ask about the OV tune as it wasn’t clear to me and it’s the only tune I’m aware of that all others use as their base to develop from.

It’s nice to have options.

 

Both my buddies and my tacoma operate at roughly the same speeds and rpm on the back roads here. His truck will start to shudder or buck lightly if the rpm get down to around 1200. With my truck nothing, plus it has noticeably more torque that far down. Both have the same tsb latest tune. I believe some truck don't experience this while others do.

 

My experience here after reading many post on this particular issue/characteristic is not all trucks are equal.

But I do know what mine does and this is my biggest grievance with it.

By the way I’m KDMAX 6 tuned and it has done amazing things to shifting, normal cruise, and hill climbing overall drivability. If this misfiring was taken care of it would be perfect!

 

It would be nice and very helpful to understand valve timing/timing , etc tuning.
Personally, I'd like to optimize timing and make more stable. See alot of retardation in mid load range

 

At the risk of stating the obvious, any gasoline internal combustion engine (at least all that I know of) will misbehave if you give them too much throttle at too low a rpm. The electronically controlled engines of today deal with it a lot better than the carbureted engines of the past, but they still have limitations.

 

I do appreciate the advice and will try to clear up confusions. There is just a lot of data I wanted to get out and making it all make sense was a bit difficult.

I suppose I should say that my Thesis is "The gains to be had from Tuning"

The mechanical side of things has pretty much been
1. Muffler then moved to catback (catback made no more power than just a weld in aftermarker muffler)
2. HPS intake tube with K&N, trd air flow accelerator, and remove charcoal filter
3. Y pipe of my own making (This was done in between my 2nd and 3rd drag strip visits and proved to help with the MPH in 1/8 and 1/4 mile tests)

Now the gains to be found from tuning is what I was researching.
I started with a nGauge(tuning interface) from D3 Performance which had their tunes preinstalled.
I found the Wide Open Throttle performance of their tunes was good but the trans stuff needed more work so I began to write my own tunes using their (D3 Performance) Software.
Their tune was locked and I was not able to see any of it so when I began to tune I had to start from scratch so this tune is all my own doing

 

The intake base angle effects how much timing you can give it as this varies the cylinder filling. More base angle the less aggressive you can get with timing. I am sure you have been watch kclv and the knock feedback.
In my latest tune my kclv varies 21-24 depending on temp and driving style. The worst Knock feedback is seen in that 1400-1800 range when transitioning to a higher load and trying to maintain a higher gear. I have seen -5 to -6 but only for a brief moment. Then also during wot after a shift when it goes back to say 4.5k - 5k rpms I might see a -5 spike for a brief moment. I have been beating on my truck for a while like this and have seen no issues and of course never heard any audible knock. You can watch when your kclv goes up to say 24 or so and its really getting aggressive with the timing that is when it advances a bit too much picks up knock and settles back down to a kclv of 21 or so and the cycle starts again.

What kind of knock feed back are you getting and at what kclv are you getting it?

 

I would love to see a sub 2.0 60ft but with this dog legged rear end its a bit tough. I need to go reread that post on how to make the diff lock operate in 2wd.

 

I did some slight changes and I sit 19.5-22 on 87 but if I stay too long in 1500-1800 range (65 mph drive for 20-40 miles), I would go to 17-18 and the cycle repeats over.. Feedback floats between 3.5-5.0

Going at 3500 rpms in 4th over a pass, I see 15°
I see same -5, -6 spikes and see them when there is a change to the valve timing.

 

I'm sure you're aware OP, but any tuning details (I mean actual values going into tables) you share on here will most likely be immediately monetized by others who are already tuning trucks all over the continent. Something to consider if you think your time and knowledge are valuable. I mean, those guys lock their tunes for a reason. Why shouldn't you get paid too?
Just sayin.