Physical Location of Connector/Junction 2A

Does anyone know the physical location of connector/junction 2A as show in the WDs?

From the FR Fog WD:




It looks like it's referring to the fuse/relay block in the engine bay, but wanted to confirm.

 

inside 2B is a buss bar linking various circuits.

 

Correct.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the answers.

Which WD page/section is that?

To confirm, the physical location of the buss bar is at the engine bay fuse box, correct?

 

What is it that you are doing that requires accessing the wiring at 2A?
Are you diagnosing an issue?

 

Rear of 2A...Fuse/Relay box needs to be opened...

 

Thanks for the pictures @caribe makaira. That really clears things up. Much appreciated.

I'm attempting to wire a CH4X4 for light switch in place of the stock switch. I'm trying to utilize the stock wiring--at least the parts of the wiring going to the FR FOG relay and GND.

Because the stock switch switches to GND, and the CH4X4 switch wants to switch to +12V, I'm running into an issue and exploring options.

 

The "ground" will do what you need it to do with the China Switch...Blue to the switch input, output of switch to ground.

 

The only issue that I'm facing is that the top part of the button (the "ON" indicator LED) doesn't illuminate when the button is in the ON position.

The bottom part of the button (the LED that comes on when the combination switch is in the headlights ON position) illuminates fine and the fog lights are operational.

 

Can you give use a link to the switch you have?

 

Sure thing:
https://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-push-switch-for-toyota-fog-lights-symbol/

 

Have you tested it? Maybe it's a bad LED in the switch.

 

You could probably use a separate relay to supply ground to the FOG relay.
Ground wire to NEW relay, out of NEW relay to the Blue wire of the old foglight switch connector.
You need to power the NEW relay with the power supply from the NEW CH4x4 switch.

That’s too much work for me. But it could be done.
I’m quite sure there is an easier way, but I’m not know for doing things the easy way.

 

Why not just use a factory fog light switch? No splicing or wire modification would be required.

 

I tested on the bench, with a mock load, and it functioned properly.

I also tested without a mock load and was able to repeat the behavior I described above.

 

Yep, there definitely different ways to do it, but at the moment I'm still committed to getting the stock wiring to work (at least until I exhaust my efforts).

 

Personal preference.