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pick's build - 04 TRD 4x4 XCab

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds' started by davidpick, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. Nov 11, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #21
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Looks good David. Vaguely familiar. :D
     
  2. Nov 11, 2013 at 11:28 PM
    #22
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you both! I've learned a ton from this forum and definitely have had some excellent inspiration!
     
  3. Nov 12, 2013 at 12:58 AM
    #23
    SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

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    Sub'd real good lookin' truck! and just a hop, skip & piss away! Hi from a few miles down south :wave:
     
  4. Nov 12, 2013 at 1:44 PM
    #24
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Go cougs! I graduated from WSU as well!...
     
  5. Nov 12, 2013 at 1:53 PM
    #25
    specialized7

    specialized7 boosted?

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    3" body lift 3" suspension lift 265/75 duratracs all the tow goodies Tube Bumper
    Sweet build man!
     
  6. Nov 12, 2013 at 2:13 PM
    #26
    SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

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    Coug fans are far & few in between on the west side of the mountains. Glad to see another WSU alumni-- Go Cougs!!
     
  7. Nov 13, 2013 at 4:36 PM
    #27
    adrenalinejunkie

    adrenalinejunkie Well-Known Member

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    sweet truck! i like the coug plate. good to see another coug on here!
    *current student
     
  8. Nov 17, 2013 at 5:09 PM
    #28
    CohbsTaco

    CohbsTaco Hood Rat

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    Pretty much stock with some crap welded to it.
    Beautiful truck man!!
     
  9. Nov 25, 2013 at 12:55 PM
    #29
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I recently installed a Warn M8000. Along with that, I relocated the control box to the engine bay for weather and longevity concerns as well as installed some switches in the cab to control the winch (in addition to the Warn wired remote).

    Here's the final product:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Nov 25, 2013 at 1:02 PM
    #30
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Parts
    12-15 ft of 2-gauge wire
    2 gauge terminals
    2 gauge solder slugs
    ~ 6" of 9/16" heat shrink
    Assorted screws

    Process
    This is pretty straightforward. All we're doing is creating longer cables than the ~16" ones that come with the winch so that we can move the box into the engine bay. The location I choose was 4' away from the winch connections so I used 12' of 2 gauge wire cut into three 4' pieces.

    The solder slugs are awesome. Cut the insulation on your wire so that it can slip into the terminal. Place the terminal in the vice and put 1 appropriately-sized solder slug in the end and heat with a propane torch. Once it melts, keep the heat on and push the wire into the terminal until it seats. Remove heat. Allow to cool and slip on heat shrink and apply heat (I use a simple BBQ lighter) until it contracts, sealing the connection.

    Mount the box as desired and "connect the dots": A on the solenoid goes to A on the winch, F1 to F1 and F2 to F2.

    Easy.

    Next post will discuss wiring up the in-cab controls.
     
  11. Nov 25, 2013 at 1:09 PM
    #31
    Digiratus

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    Very nicely done. Lets go test it. Gotta make sure everything is working...right?
     
  12. Nov 25, 2013 at 1:14 PM
    #32
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This part is a little more complicated, but it's not too bad. This is a rough guide and I may forget some steps, so attempt at your own risk. Hope this is helpful though!

    Here's the end result:
    [​IMG]

    Parts
    Crap-ton of 16- or 18-gauge wire
    Your desired switches
    Female spade connectors (insulated recommended)
    Soldering iron/gun
    Solder
    Heat shrink
    Etc.

    Process
    I used switches from OTRATTW. They look great and are really nice switches. If you're using different switches, you'll have to adjust the wiring appropriately. If you get the same switches as I did, it will wire up as shown above.

    I used THIS SWITCH for the winch power switch (the second In/Out switch has no power until this switch is turned on). I am using the simplest SPST switch. Part number V1D1BN0B.

    For the second switch, use a DPDT (very important) Momentary On Off On switch. I used THIS ONE. Part number VLD2U66B-00000-000. You need the DPDT because the 5-pin-style Warn winches switch the ground for the In/Out functions and we have to do the same with the in-cab winches.

    Notes
    OTRATTW wiring diagrams here: V1D1BX0B and VLD2UXXB (or view all)

    I spliced into my green, white and brown wires by creating a little cut in the insulation and soldering in-line. I prefer solder over a quick connect for longevity, but it accomplishes the same thing. A little electrical tape and a small zip-tie around the solder joint ensures it won't be shorting anything out.

    If, after you wire this up and you winch goes In when you push "Out" and Out when you push "In", simply switch the white and green wire into the switch and it will sort it out.

    You can combine grounds. I created a ground wire that split into 3 so that I grounded the two pins on the second switch and the LED ground on the first switch with the same wire.

    As I said, hopefully this is helpful. Happy to help with any questions...
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  13. Nov 25, 2013 at 1:16 PM
    #33
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] Well-Known Member

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    absolutely! i'm hoping to make it out to a NW meet here one of these days when my work schedule finally allows it!
     
  14. Nov 26, 2013 at 2:09 PM
    #34
    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    -Nitro 4.56 gears - Arb Front and Rear lockers. -Rear Swing out bumper Curiosity of ( Dept .94) https://www.facebook.com/Dept94 -Tinted, -ProComp 6 inch lift with Icon Coil overs and Bilstein's 7100Resi -315/70/17 - 17x8 in Pro Comp Matte black rims 4.5 bs -East Coast Gear Supply Sliders -ALL Pro EXP LEaf pack -Camburg UCA's -CAB mount CHOP
    looks good man thanks for info. :thumbsup:
     
  15. Nov 26, 2013 at 2:47 PM
    #35
    SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

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    I put two OTRATTW switches in the same spot, good choice :thumbsup:
     
  16. Nov 30, 2013 at 6:34 PM
    #36
    CLOUDL1GHT

    CLOUDL1GHT Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein/OME lift, full All-Pro armor, Warn M8000 winch, regeared to 4.88, Goodyear MTR's, and a nice sound system
    nice truck :cool:
    I was wondering how those 4.88's were treating you?? Bout to regear mine and was looking for some input
     
  17. Nov 30, 2013 at 6:38 PM
    #37
    SeattleCoug

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    x2 wondering how that feels with your 285s and... manual transmission?
     
  18. Nov 30, 2013 at 6:46 PM
    #38
    Digiratus

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    King ET Coilovers Camburg Uniball UCAs Alcan 8-Leaf Rear Spring Packs Fox 2.0 Resi Rear Shocks FrankenFab Rear Shock Relocate Trail Gear U-bolt Flip Toytec 1" Extended Shackle 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker OBA ARB Twin Comp 15x8 D Window Steelies 33" BFG KM2s Limited Edition Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch PIAA 510 SMR Fog Lights Lightforce 170s Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Whynter 65 qt. Fridge/Freezer CVT Mt Bachelor RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack GM 140 amp alternator Optima Yellow Top battery Magnaflow 18" Muffler Braided Steel Brake Lines K&N Drop-in air filter ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Uniden 520xl CB radio 3’ Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1” Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    IMO, 4.88s with an auto is the perfect combination. The power and throttle response is back to where it was with 31's and no extra armor and winch weight.

    The gearing in the 5-speed is a little different from the auto and also, 285/75-16s are a tad smaller than 33x12.5-15s or 33x10.5-15s so your highway RPMs might be a little higher than mine. At 70 mph I am right at 2500 rpm.
     
  19. Nov 30, 2013 at 6:55 PM
    #39
    SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

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    Whoops, I didn't see that he has an auto.
    Agreed that 4.88s w/ an auto is the way to go... if it's a 5-speed then 4.56 takes the cake :thumbsup:
     
  20. Nov 30, 2013 at 7:10 PM
    #40
    Hockeyman90

    Hockeyman90 Well-Known Member

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    Custom front bumper, bed liner, 33" wrangler duratracs on 16" ATX series Mojave rims, OME 3" suspension, 882 coils, custom rear bumper
    Great build sir. So great I might have to steal some ideas:drevil:
    And now for the:threadjacked: (sorry but I have to know) if you go 4.56s, what speedo gear would you need? And where do you get a speedo gear? The stealer ship?
     
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