Ping help still needed.

Two part question here.

04 trd sr5 4x4 manual 101k miles

(1)
I have been chasing the annoying drive shaft ping sound and a little shuddering in first gear.

So far i have put in new u joints at each end, center support bearing, Xfer case rear output flange 3rd washer, removed and cleaned and regreased slip yoke, and pumped all new grease. Still have the ping sound and the vibration at the start of first gear. Yes, i make all the joints and yoke so they stay inline before removal and replace.

What else should i be looking at? What is the spec for the slip as play. I am looking at about .08 of play at the slip. The sound does seem like it comes from the xfer output flange. Any help would be great.

(2)
Clutch pedal squeak. Replaced all bushings inside cab and solved that. Needed a new slave so replaced that and applied ceramic lubricant the the end of the slave push rod to the end of the fork. Still a pesky squeak every time i push the pedal down. What else could it be?

Any suggestions would be great.

Cheers
Otto

 

the ping could be from the rear end and not the shaft so get help crawl under there and follow the sound BUT BE SURE TO DO IT SAFELY

the vibration is because you need shims on your rear end mount to the springs to correct a bad angle alignment, get the right tools to measure your alignment and use the right shims to correct that issue.

clutch pedal, same as ping, get under there and follow the sound, also grease any moving pivot points in the system and don't forget the pedal pad might be making the noise so remove it first to see, if it is, replace it or glue it down

 

This drive shaft ping .... is it continuous, one-time ?
And when does it happen, and when does it NOT happen?
You haven't given up too many details.

 

I am stock height so i don't know if that plays into your prognosis. Clutch pedal joints are all cleaned and greased. I pulled the whole system out of the truck and cleaned cleaned and cleaned/ replaced any wear item i could find. Sounds like it coming from the fork. Anyone ever hear of a throwout bearing causing this noise?

First in the morning or cold it is quiet. It starts up after 8 miles and eight stop signs. Seems to get worse with warmer temps. Yes it will keep doing it until it sits for awhile. Could the diffs backlash be the issue?


Thanks gents

 

Still looking for help

 

Ok lets narrow this down. Does it ping while shifting from gear to gear? Right after shifting? Right before shifting or only during 1st gear shift and only then from a complete stop. When you hit the brakes when approaching a stop does it ping. Have you removed the clutch to do an inspection? Have you measured drive shaft pinion gear to differential ring gear clearance?

 

Does the frequency of the 'ping' go up and down with your speed?
Maybe a skid plate is expanding or worping with the heat, and coming into contact with the drive-shaft.

 

Load and unloading. Forward to reverse and also on downshifting. Truck is bone stock so it shouldn't be a clearance issue.

 

Do you have the weird double cardon joint on that truck? They can be a bear to lube, several grease fittings. Or perhaps the old propeller shaft. I need a needle nose adapter to reach a grease fitting on it. They say to check the torque on that regularly, but so far, mine is still tight.

 

She is greased and greased well. Yes i have the Double cardon joint. I am thinking about eliminating it and going to single if i can't figure this out.

I am suspicious of the xfer case. It does seem like the sound is coming from the rear output flange and or joint. I did replace that ujoint as well as added the 3rd shim behind the output flange.

It was mentioned above the diff could resonate though the shaft. Backlash should be .05 i think. What else in teh diff could cause the ping?

 

The ping and the shudder may be unrelated, or not. FWIW I get an occasional drive line ping and have from day 1.

One cause of shudder on take off could be the TRD springs. They are notorious for allowing "axle wrap" or "spring wind up", the rotation of the axle housing against torque. On acceleration this rotation points the front of the diff up and puts the rear u-joint at a poor angle causing a brief shudder.

Since you did the flange shim trick you should know if it was loose or not and if the shim fixed anything. Have you rechecked it and did you check the diff pinion flange?
Any play in the drive line can cause a ping and it can be telegraphed along the whole length. It could be internal to the transfer case. Differential gear lash and play in the slip joint are less likely candidates due to the muffling effect of the gear oil and the length of the slip joint splines, but still possible.


Now the DC.
If you haven't already, the DC joint needs to be checked for play in any direction thru it's full range of motion when at least disconnected from the support bearing and better, fully removed and on the bench. See posts 18 and 25 here and don't skip the link at the end of 25 http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/351185-terrible-driveshaft-shake-45mph.html

The 1st gen 2 piece shafts have no inherent defects or design flaws. Countless folks run them on SA rigs with 6" of rear lift and no support bearing drop. The perceived problems come from folks following random suggestions without a structured trouble shooting procedure.

 

There is a clutch squeak that is not as common as the numerous clutch pedal issues. The clutch fork pivot ball and or the fork retaining clip can squeak. It takes a shot of some spray lube (with an extension tube). Take your time and understand where the parts are after pulling back the fork boot on the bell housing. Don't want to just blindly spray grease in there.
I had this squeak when the truck was a week old. A shot of white lithium would cure it for about a few weeks. After 4 or five applications it ceased for good.

 

Thanks Pool,

I did bench test the DC and found no play whatsoever. I don't know how much force i could apply being on a bench with just a single vice.

I didn't check diff side flange. I should have probably done that. I will next time i have the truck in the shop.

I am curious what inside the xfer case could cause this. I have never torn into a case before as i have always had cars before this. Is there a inherent issue with our cases that i should maybe look into?


The clutch squeak does drive me nuts, I did get to the slave side but not onto the pivot so i will have give this a try.

 

Yes, this is the first thing I thought of when I read your first post. I have had 2 of them do this. One of them eventually completely locked up and ate through the pressure plate spring.

Sorry, I am no help on your other issues.

 

Well damn. Looks like i am going to spray the pivot as Pool mentioned and see if will shut up after that. If not, let the chewing begin. I will replace it when it has more significant signs of failing. Thanks 110 beers

Going to torque the output flange on the xfer case and then diff flange and see if that helps.

 

You mentioned 8 stops. Sometimes a brake hang up can cause an odd ping noise. Maybe a stretched or hung up spring? It happens.

 

OK so since it warmed up outside the ping is back. I did the add a shim behind the output flange to no avail. Replaced both U joints and nothing. Starting to wonder if it is a diff or xfer case issue now. I put a set of chassis ears on the truck and the sound was the same through the sensors at CSB xfer and diff so no help there either.

For the life of me i can not remember what the TQ value is on the flange nut at the xfer case, could someone refresh me. I think i may just replace the two older shims and see. It seems like there is still a lot of deflection at that joint.

 

do you have to take the driver side tire off to see where you are spraying the grease? I have a tough time seeing where I am spraying and I don't want to get it onto the flywheel..

 

No need to do anything other than manipulating the rear of the boot out of the way. The pivot ball/stud can be partially seen and more easily felt by probing with your index finger along the rear of the fork. The target is the general area where the ball contacts the fork, this will also get the retainer clip. In my case I believe the clip rubbing on the ball caused the screech, much like a fingernail on a blackboard.
On the surface, blindly shooting grease in there justifiably comes with concerns, but all the sensitive areas are well forward of the fork pivot. If you spray along the rear surface of the fork, maybe 1/2" away it will not get anywhere near the clutch. Just do not angle the extension tube toward the front. We are only talking about a couple of half second blasts.

Advanced technique.
Push the end of the fork toward the front a quarter inch or so and hold it. This will push the slave cylinder piston in. The result may or may not provide a tiny gap between the pivot ball and the fork allowing the grease an easier path. The piston is spring loaded so it will return to position when released.

Toyota calls the pivot a "Release Fork Support".


Be sure the fork pivot ball/clip is your culprit.
Off the top of my head there are at least a dozen different clutch linkage creaks, squeaks, bumps, thumps, clunks and binds.
Everyone online seems to think that their issue/cure is going to be the solution for everyone else. The "linear spring" install is always a popular one. The white pivot bushings can fail, the u-shaped turn over spring bushing is another. At one point Toyota was replacing the entire pedal assembly free of charge in cases of rapid bushing wear.