Pinoin nut

Can anyone tell me what the torque is on a pinion nut for a 95 tacoma 4x4?

 

Uhh, why did you loosen it? They have to be properly set for resistance. @ZUK @Blackdawg @Dirty Pool

 

@Speedytech7 My pinion seal is leaking and I want to replace it.

 

I would have someone who works with differentials do that. The pinion nut preloads the pinion bearing and sets backlash (along with shims) to the ring gear. If not properly set your differential may make excessive noise, heat and prematurely wear. Plus you can't just do it with a normal torque wrench.

If you want to see the kind of stuff involved in messing with a differential, www.gearinstalls.com

 

@Speedytech7 Good to know, Thank you. I have been reading mixed advice about this subject. Some say to torque it to spec, and back it off a 1/4 of a turn, others say to count the turns and put it back exactly the way it was. I want to do it right so I figured I would ask.

 

If you loosened the pinion nut its going to need a new crush sleeve and the bearing set to the proper preload.. best a specialist deals with it

 

Speedy isnt wrong, but i did the above with zero issues. Ideal, no.

 

When the pinion yoke flange is removed , check where the pinion seal rides on the shaft . There could be a large groove in the shaft . This means if you are going in there to replace a leaking seal , you may also need a speedy sleeve to give the new seal you just installed a new surface to ride on .
Dirty or contaminated fluid is the most likey cause . This is why there are recommended fluid replacement intervals
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naNeoCwgGQU

 

I retorqed the pinion nut and reused the crush spacer. I don't remember the exact procedure at the time. But it's somewhere on TW. I drove that way for 25k miles.

I recently decided to have a shop do it properly after the Napa seal started weeping again.
I opted to install a solid spacer and shims at the time so BL and PL are maintained if you loosen the pinion nut to replace the seal in the future.

If you decide to go that route, get a reputable shop to do it.

Due to all the diff shops refusing to do the job because I was supplying the spacer/shims/oem seal.
I had an offroad shop do the work. Not only did they put less than a quart of fluid in the diff, they neither staked or loctited the pinion nut or gasket sealed the splines or pinion flange. After clocking a thousand miles of dirt on the S. Utah Traverse. I headed home. At the North Rim I noticed a severe vibration. The pinion nut had backed off and had nearly thrown the driveshaft. So, yeah, reputable shop.

I'd go with a solid spacer, get a new pinion nut on top of the seal, and might as well get both axle seals. See if the shop will accept if you can pull the third and just bring that in. It'll probably save you $200-300 in labor.